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During breeding, some female dogs tend to be uncooperative. Therefore, it is usually necessary to assist your young stud. If you are there helping him and praising him, whether or not your help is actually needed, he will expect and accept this as a matter of course when a difficult female dog comes along.

Supplies that you may need for breeding include K-Y jelly and a length of gauze with which to muzzle the female should it be necessary to keep her from biting you or the stud. Some females put up a fight while others are calm. It is therefore best to be prepared.

It is wise for both parties to have the terms of the transaction clearly understood before the breeding starts. At the time of the breeding, the stud fee is expected to be paid promptly. A return service is normally offered in case the female misses or fails to produce one live puppy. The owner of the stud dog usually sets the conditions of the service and there are no standard rules covering this. The stud fee is paid for the act, not the result. If the female fails to conceive, it is customary for the owner to offer a free return service; but this is a courtesy and not to be considered a mandatory, especially in the case of a proven stud. Stud dog owners are always anxious to see their clients get good value and to see winning young stock in the ring by their dog.

If the return service has been provided and the female dog has missed a second time, that is considered to be the end of the matter and the owner would be expected to pay a further fee if it is felt that the female should be given a third chance with the stud dog. The owner of a stud dog and his visiting females is quite a task, and a stud fee has usually been well earned when one service has been achieved.

One live puppy is considered as an accepted litter. It is ideal to have a printed breeding certificate to which the owner of the stud dog and the owner of the female dog both sign. This should list in detail the conditions of the breeding as well as the dates of the mating. On some occasion, arrangements other than a stud fee in cash are made for a breeding, such as the owner of the stud taking a pick from the litter puppy in lieu of money. This should be clearly specified on the breeding certificate along with the terms of the age at which the stud’s owner will select the puppy, whether it is to be a boy or a girl, or whether it is to be the pick of the entire litter.

Requirements Before Breeding courtesy Dog Articles.

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Some dogs are very “mouthy.” That doesn’t mean they talk or bark a lot. It means that they use their mouths on everything, trying to taste things, or put their mouths on things. Usually these dogs have not been completely taught bite inhibition. Bite inhibition is when a puppy is taught that nipping and biting others hurts and that they shouldn’t go around using their mouths on things. They generally learn it from their mothers and littermates, and later from their owners. Singleton pups (one-puppy litters) may have a harder time learning bite inhibition since they don’t have littermates.

Dogs can also be mouthy as a way of showing affection. Wolves tend to show affection to each other by mouthing muzzles, necks and paws.

Whatever the cause, mouthing people’s hands and feet, or any other part of their bodies, can be annoying. Your dog may not use his teeth, but it does tend to cover you in dog slobber. Having a dog grab you with his mouth is also simply not very good manners.

There are a few simple methods for teaching your dog not to mouth you.

Some people like to use Bitter Apple, a spray or cream product. You can put this on your hands if that’s where your dog grabs you. Most dogs hate the taste and your dog should stop grabbing at your hands.

Another method of dealing with mouthiness is to turn to stone whenever your dog grabs you with his mouth. If your dog gets no feedback he will likely lose interest.

You can also use clicker training to teach your dog not to be mouthy. When your dog grabs your hand or wrist being mouthy wait for him to let go. Wait for a couple of seconds and then Click and tell him he’s a good dog. Give him a treat. Keep clicking and treating when he stops the mouthing behavior. He will get the message.

If your dog is mouthing other things in your home, such as walls or furniture, you can try the Bitter Apple on them. The bad-tasting product usually discourages dogs from mouthing and chewing things.

Remember that puppy nipping and mouthing are normal behaviors up to a point. If you have a puppy who is nipping and mouthing you can work on bite inhibition. When your puppy nips or mouths you all you have to do is make it perfectly clear that it HURTS when he does it. Let out an OUCH to curl your puppy’s hair. Leave him in no doubt that what he did really hurt you. This is the same thing that his littermates would do if he played too rough with them. If he does it the next time you play with him, get up and leave. Puppies don’t play with a puppy that is too rough and you shouldn’t either.

For mouthy adolescent or grown dogs, the tips offered here should work. Give them a try and it should stop the mouthiness.

My Dog Won’t Stop Mouthing Me courtesy Dog Articles.

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