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Puppy Dog Training

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I know exactly how it can be, you buy that brand new, nice smelling, affectionate dog and you really want to offer it everything beneath the sun. It is a natural reaction for any individual whom looks at a sweet, small puppy to shower him or her with every little thing they would like, however this can certainly cause a few undesirable behavior and produce even more work for you. Now it will be a very good plan for you to get started in your own puppy dog training soon, and let your dog fully understand who is in charge.

As the owner you have to develop a relationship with your new puppy. The relationship you develop has to include a stable foundation, as well as your own puppy needs to learn that you are the leader! Simply by giving in to those puppy dog eyes every time your dog cries, you are just demonstrating to your pet that he is in charge, that he is the boss. In the event that you grant your puppy free reign in and around your house, your dog will never learn self-control, discipline, and will lack respect for your entire family.

A dog not possessing respect for their master will be the hardest achievable circumstances to have. By simply giving into your own pup, he may mature to become an even much larger monster, with absolutely no behavior training, rowdy as well as a lot of instances aggressive towards some other pets along with individuals. Most dog owners who possess these puppy dog training issues, often times simply give them away to shelters or even worse, simply abandon them. I do not wish this to take place to any pet therefore carry out with your puppy dog training.

In order to achieve control and respect via your very new pup you must challenge him or her with some primary commands. These types of commands need to be comparable to Sit, Stay, Down, and so forth. You should help make your puppy sit prior to he will go outdoors, or goes for a walk. Make your pet follow some important commands just before his routines and he will probably soon understand he has to comply to you before he or she receives everything that he wishes. Keep in mind that pups love a challenge, so turn this kind of instinct into a positive effort for you. Get your own puppy to pick up their toys, sit, fetch tennis balls, anything that places you in control. As a result of making your pup comply with several primary instructions on a daily basis, he or she will probably quickly understand that if he or she complies to your request, he will get a treat.

Or perhaps he will get his favorite toy, or go for a stroll. The faster your own puppy can pick up on this partnership you are creating with him, the quicker you will find benefits throughout your puppy dog training. Whenever your puppy follows through along with your instructions you should continually encourage him highly enthusiastically! When your puppy recognizes that he pleased you, your dog will certainly want to carry on with this kind of behavior over and over repeatedly. You never want to yell or discipline ones canine throughout your puppy dog training due to the fact that this particular kind of actions will certainly just set you back, and also make your pet plan to rebel against just about any command you require of him.

Puppy Dog Training courtesy Dog Articles.

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Requirements Before Breeding

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During breeding, some female dogs tend to be uncooperative.  Therefore, it is usually necessary to assist your young stud.  If you are there helping him and praising him, whether or not your help is actually needed, he will expect and accept this as a matter of course when a difficult female dog comes along.

Supplies that you may need for breeding include K-Y jelly and a length of gauze with which to muzzle the female should it be necessary to keep her from biting you or the stud.  Some females put up a fight while others are calm.  It is therefore best to be prepared.

It is wise for both parties to have the terms of the transaction clearly understood before the breeding starts.  At the time of the breeding, the stud fee is expected to be paid promptly.  A return service is normally offered in case the female misses or fails to produce one live puppy.  The owner of the stud dog usually sets the conditions of the service and there are no standard rules covering this. The stud fee is paid for the act, not the result. If the female fails to conceive, it is customary for the owner to offer a free return service; but this is a courtesy and not to be considered a mandatory, especially in the case of a proven stud.  Stud dog owners are always anxious to see their clients get good value and to see winning young stock in the ring by their dog.

If the return service has been provided and the female dog has missed a second time, that is considered to be the end of the matter and the owner would be expected to pay a further fee if it is felt that the female should be given a third chance with the stud dog.  The owner of a stud dog and his visiting females is quite a task, and a stud fee has usually been well earned when one service has been achieved.

One live puppy is considered as an accepted litter.  It is ideal to have a printed  breeding certificate to which the owner of the stud dog and the owner of the female dog both sign. This should list in detail the conditions of the breeding as well as the dates of the mating.  On some occasion, arrangements other than a stud fee in cash are made for a breeding, such as the owner of the stud taking a pick from the litter puppy in lieu of money.  This should be clearly specified on the breeding certificate along with the terms of the age at which the stud’s owner will select the puppy, whether it is to be a boy or a girl, or whether it is to be the pick of the entire litter.

Requirements Before Breeding courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts

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Dogs are considered “man’s best friend” for a good reason – they are known to develop deep and meaningful bonds with their owners and remain loyal to them. Television shows, movies and books have all been devoted to the intensity of the bond between a human and their dog and this isn’t without good reason!

If you have a new puppy in your home, congrats! A dog can be your closest friend in the world and will never turn down your affections, will never stop listening when you need an ear and will be your friend for the rest of their life if you take the time to build a healthy relationship with them.

However, the dog in your home does not make the rules. You do. That being the case, you need to make sure your animal understands what is acceptable and what is not. Dogs don’t train themselves!

Be sure to make big decisions early such as what he will chew on and play with, where he will sleep and what is off limits to him (for example: Can he get on the furniture? Are any rooms in the home off limits?).

Housebreaking your dog as a young puppy will help ensure they respond successfully and quickly to the training and thus be a happy and positive member to the household, causing you (and him) as little stress as possible.

The crate training method is a perfectly humane and quick way to train your puppy not to go in the house.

Before we dive into that, some Do’s and Don’ts on housebreaking your new family member:

Do’s:

Be Consistent. Without your consistency, your puppy will only get confused as to what you are expecting it to do.

Do regulate your dog’s food and water intake during the day. Never withhold food or water if your animal needs it, but remember that the more your animal eats or drinks, the more it will need to go to the bathroom.

Do remember to stay close to your puppy. If you aren’t near him, he will have no way to get let out to use the restroom. If you have to be gone for long periods of time while you are training him, make sure that you keep the puppy in a limited area of your home where you are prepared to have accidents happen.

Do reward your doggy with praise whenever he does what you’ve asked or expected him to do. Your puppy wants to make you happy and he needs to learn what are the right things to do that generate that praise he is seeking.

Be realistic. As frustrating as house training can be, your new dog may not be completely housebroken until 6 months of age or more.

Don’ts:

Don’t allow your pup to use the restroom anywhere other than his designated area during the training period.

Don’t discipline your dog when he has an accident. While housebreaking a new puppy, accidents are inevitable and when they do happen it means you did not get him outside to use the restroom soon enough. Clean up the mess and move forward.

Don’t use your puppy’s crate as a way to punish them, the crate should not be associated with negativity. Also, don’t lock your doggy up in their crate for long periods of time.

The crate method and why it works:

Dogs are by nature picky about where they do their business. They will not use the restroom where they eat or sleep. If your puppy sleeps in their crate, they simply will not use the restroom in it.

To Begin With:

– Puppies urinate often. Anytime they drink, eat, run, chew, play or walk they will need to use the restroom within 15-30 minutes following depending on the size, age, temperament, and breed of your puppy.

– Document how often and when your puppy needs to do his business for a few days. Keeping an eye on his general schedule will make training easier.

– After you’ve determined your puppy’s natural schedule, plan your walks around it. Between the ages of 10 weeks to 6 months, your puppy should be taken out or walked 5 to 10 times daily. Between 6 months and 11 months this number will drop down to 4 to 6 times daily. After he is grown 3 to 4 times daily should be enough.

–  Especially on your first walk of the day (after your dog has spent the night in their crate), do not come home from your walk until your puppy has done their business. If, for whatever reason, you do need to return, return your puppy to his crate and let him back out every 15 minutes until they use the restroom.

The crate:

Your puppy’s crate is his special sanctuary away from any stresses during the day. It functions as his bedroom and his own personal spot that no one else uses.

Your puppy should associate his crate with only positive things. Be sure to keep his favorite toys, blankets and treats inside. While he is still adjusting to the crate, leave the crate door open until he has no anxiety about being inside it.

The better your puppy feels about his crate, the lower the chances of him using the restroom inside it.

Do not encourage bad behaviors by letting your puppy out of the crate for whining, scratching or barking.

Getting Started:

– Create a daily schedule of taking your puppy out and feeding him.

– At night time, put your puppy in his crate, but be sure to take him outside first thing in the morning and do not return from your walk until he has used the restroom.

– After you’ve taken your puppy out and he has eliminated, bring him indoors and allow him to play for about an hour. (Also remember to keep an eye on his whereabouts in the house until he is fully housebroken.)

– Feed your puppy.

– Using the information about your puppy’s natural schedule that you’ve already written down, take him outside within fifteen minutes of when you anticipate he will need to go. Do not return from outside until he has used the restroom.

– Come back inside and allow the puppy to play.

– Put your puppy back in his crate for naptime.

Repeat this schedule throughout your day.

This may seem like a ton of effort, and it is, but this is a method that is wildly effective. Your puppy will quickly be house trained and when your puppy is older, he will inform you when he needs to go out. During the training process, you will have confidence in your dog and know that accidents are much less likely to happen.

Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts courtesy Dog Articles.

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My Dog Is Marking In The House!

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If you see a woman chasing a dog from room to room, threatening them with a mop, it’s possible you are watching a dog owner who has a male dog that’s been marking in the house.

It should be understood that marking behavior is not the same as ordinary peeing in the house, although the result may be the same.  Marking behavior, which may be no more than sprinkling everything in sight, is not a housetraining issue.  It is about territory, dominance and sexuality.  Sometimes it is about insecurity.  But even dogs that are thoroughly housetrained can mark in the house.

Marking is usually, but not always, an issue that involves male dogs.  Some females will mark in the house, but by far most dogs that exhibit marking behavior are male.

Dogs mark by peeing on furniture or other items in order to establish their territory.  They are “marking” something as theirs.  They are usually motivated to do so to show their status.  There may be other dogs in the household that they think should be reminded about their position.  There may be females around and they want to advertise their sexual availability.  Or, the male may be insecure in some way and marking makes him feel bigger and tougher.  He’s tossing his hat in the ring, so to speak.  He wants to be one of the guys.

As you probably know, dogs have incredible noses and they can gather a wealth of information from sniffing urine.  Your dog is leaving information about himself and his position when he marks something.

Not surprisingly, most owners don’t appreciate this practice in their homes.

Marking is far more prevalent with unneutered males since it seems to be linked to testosterone.  Neutering at any point in a dog’s life does seem to reduce or nearly eliminate the behavior (though it is not a guarantee).  So, you might suggest to your intact male that if he doesn’t want to lose something he values he should knock off the marking.  If that doesn’t work, there are some other ways to try to discourage marking behavior.

One of the best ways to stop the marking is to catch your dog in the act.  This usually requires very close supervision and immediate correction.  You may have to confine your dog to one small area of the house in order to watch him closely.  You may even need to put him on a retractable leash in the house.  However, this method is effective.

You can also make yourself a shaker bottle using an old soda bottle and fill it with pennies or something else that rattles.  Watch your dog and as soon as he starts to mark you give your command, “NO MARK!” and rattle the shaker at him.  The goal is to startle him into not marking.  Do this consistently for a couple of days and he should be on his way to breaking the habit.

You may need to confine your dog while you are away from home, at least while you are trying to break the marking habit.  You can crate your dog for a few hours while you are away from home in order to control the marking.  Make sure your dog goes outside to potty, as usual, and praise him when he pees outside.

Remember to thoroughly clean every area where your dog marks in the house.  These areas are special to him and you have to remove all trace of the urine so he won’t be tempted to mark there again.  A 50/50 solution of vinegar and water works well.

If none of these solutions works you may have to resign yourself to putting a belly band on your dog.  A belly band is a wrap which fits around your dog’s waist and over his penis.  You fit it inside with a sanitary napkin.  If your dog is tempted to mark and lift his leg then he pees into the band and not onto anything in the house.  It’s really a method of last resort.

My Dog Is Marking In The House courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps

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Ask any dog owner what is the most important thing that their new dog learns and 9 out of 10 will say that they want their dog to be housetrained. The problem is that there are more dogs that are not housebroken than are. The reason for that is because many dog owners are not patient enough to train their dogs, so they give up.

Dogs actually do want to please their owners. They are pack animals and because you are the one that provides food and shelter you are the alpha dog; you are the pack leader. But you have to think like a dog and work with them. Housebreaking can be done in four simple steps as follows:

1) Restrict the area that your dog is allowed to freely roam in. This should be no more than the area that you can keep watch over. By limiting the area to what you can supervise you will be able to closely monitor your dog.

2) Be diligent about taking your dog out as you should. Puppies will need to go out more often than older dogs. Always be ready to immediately take the pet outdoors when he wakes up. This is a time that you count on that he will look for a spot to ‘go’. Dogs also ‘go’ after eating, drinking, and exercise. Once again, older dogs can wait much longer than puppies.

3) When you take the dog out be sure to say whatever word or phrase you want him to associate with the deed. Just keep in mind that you may be saying this in public at some point in time so make it something that is not embarrassing. Taking your dog to the same place each time helps him to associate the spot with the deed. Do not play with your dog during these trips outdoors. He needs to understand that the trip has a purpose. When he finishes you should lavish praise on him, let him know he did good.

4) Repeat until your dog gets the idea and begins signaling to you that he needs to go out. If your dog makes a mess indoors it means that you were not monitoring as closely as you should have been. Never punish your dog for accidents. Simply continue with the training and expect that there will be a few accidents along the way. Some dogs continue to have occasional accidents but others will do anything not to ‘go’ indoors.

Many small breed owners find that the use of puppy pads works for their dogs. Rather than taking their little dog out the dog simply messes on the pad and it is disposed of. This also works for dogs that are left alone for long periods of time.

Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps courtesy Dog Articles.

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For Dog Owners

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(From a dog’s point of view) You know you need a new mindset when your dog would say: I am a small breed dog that should weigh about 15 lbs but I weigh 40. My owner jokes about how she is guilty of feeding me table scraps (I am four now, but I may not see seven or eight because of this. I like to eat and it’s my owners’ job to maintain my weight because I don’t know how) I am a medium size breed that should weigh around 60 lbs but I weigh 110 lbs. The vet, told my owner to put me on a diet, so he/my owner cut back to 6 cups per day (that means I was getting way, way too much before because 6 cups is way too much for me now and I will probably not live long because I don’t know how to control my own weight, this makes me sad)

My owner doesn’t want me to see, smell, look at, greet or play with any other dog (since I am by nature a pack animal, he can expect me to have issues including possible aggression and fearfulness. I don’t think he realizes that I am just like a human child that needs to play and have fun and make friends with other dogs just like a human child does) I am a large breed, long haired dog and my owner hasn’t brushed or bathed me in 9 months and she wants my groomer to bathe, brush and get all the mats out without clipping me. (which isn’t possible without a haircut and hurts me and makes me really anxious) I am a small breed dog and I have gotten severely matted because my owner doesn’t brush me.

She has this silly notion that a hairbrush is a stress on me, so she tried “hacking” and “chopping” at the mats herself then decided to take me to the groomer but didn’t want me to be bathed or brushed, just clipped. (It hurts me to cut my hair when it’s this matted and it can’t be done without brushing what can be brushed out first. Lack of regular care causes me way more stress when I am dumped on a groomer for care and have to endure tugging and pulling at mats, than if my coat was maintained to begin with. Hacking and chopping what she can’t see, can cause cuts she can’t see)

My owner lets my toenails get so long that they curl around and dig into the pads of my paws, then takes me to the groomer. (this would be to him, like walking around in shoes that have nails driven into them stabbing into his feet. My toes will become splayed and I will probably develop joint pain, not to mention that I may have hoof rot, which can get very stinky and painful.) When I jump up on counters or people, my owner says “look what I taught my dog” (I’m behaving badly and I should not be encouraged) When I bark and growl at people and other dogs and my owner says “Good boy!, you go get em” (If I am allowed to behave like this, he may end up getting rid of me to another owner who may give me up again and I might get euthanized in a shelter because I wasn’t trained to behave to begin with.)

I bite people and when my owner is told about it, she says “Oh yeah, he gets a wild hair every now and then and decides to turn” (I am being very naughty and I should not be allowed to act like this. I’m afraid if she doesn’t get me trained to behave, I might end up in a shelter or get euthanized for my bad behavior) My owner doesn’t want to have me spayed or neutered because he thinks I will become fat, lazy or that it will take away what I should have. (What he doesn’t realize is that I will want to mark and mount the girls and other dogs and I might become a fighter and a dangerous dog. The girl dogs out there like me will probably have puppies that no one will have a home for and they will end up in shelters or get euthanized. This makes me so sad)

My owner wants my caregiver while she is on vacation to feed me human treats for my snack but they are unhealthy and one is actually poisonous to me. (If you want to feed me human foods, please make sure that they are safe for me because I want to live a long life with you, not die of poisoning that you didn’t know about.

For Dog Owners courtesy Dog Articles.

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Preparing Your Dog for the Arrival of Your Baby

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Congratulations! You’re pregnant and your “pack” will soon be growing. If you’re like most people, you’re caught between anticipation and trepidation. As an expecting dog owner the very first thing that you should do is to identify the changes that need to be made in the life of your dog once the baby arrives and implement them NOW!

You do not want your dog to associate any changes that need to be made in your relationship with the arrival of your child thus setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic. Failing to implement relevant changes in the life of your dog prior to baby’s arrival is the single most common mistake expecting dog owners make. And keep in mind, things that you do not consider problematic now might become problematic with a child in your midst. So take a careful look: is your dog sleeping in bed with you, pushy and demanding, barky, prone to steal things and get into mischief when you’re not looking? Or worse, is he over-protective, suffer from separation anxiety and sensitivity to sudden and unpredictable movements?

Problems like these are readily resolvable but resolution depends on building the right relationship with your dog, a relationship in which your dog is in the habit of taking direction from you. Simple things like always giving your dog a command before you have an interaction with him, not letting him run out the door ahead of you, and being a little aloof with him can do a world of good in causing your dog to cheerfully accept your leadership role. Additionally, there are many things that help create not only safety but very positive associations for your dog with the presence of your child. Here’s an example.

Start by making the future baby’s room off limits to your dog. Once that’s handled, allow him to enter the room only with your permission and accompaniment. Once in the room always ask him for certain obedience exercises, especially down-stays. Soon he’ll get the idea that when he enters this room he’s to do a down-stay in the corner (you could even put a bed for him there). In addition, teach your dog to tolerate alone time every day. Once your baby arrives, allow your dog to come into the baby’s room when you go in to change diapers or play or whatever and assume his down-stay. If he has been left alone for a few hours prior to that he will welcome the contact. In other words, the presence of your child means a positive social engagement for him. This is quite different than what usually happens which is that when mommy goes to play with or care for baby, doggie gets thrown out, thus potentially setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic.

Other things that you can do to ensure a seamless transition to siblinghood for your dog include: o Teaching him the difference between doggie toys and child’s toys (start by getting doggie toys that are distinctly different from baby toys since often these two bear striking similarities). o Get a baby doll and wrap it in a scented baby blanket and teach your dog appropriate manners around your “faux baby,” thus setting up a template of behavior for future interactions. o Hire a dog walker to take over exercise responsibilities during the period immediately after birth. This will take a lot of pressure off of you and produce a tired dog.

Never allow unsupervised interactions between your dog and your child. While the above does not comprise a comprehensive list by any means, it should serve to provide a sense of direction and purpose. All that having been said, keep in mind that your true test of the success of your efforts at integration will be seen once your child passes the eight-month threshold when your little one starts crawling and becoming mobile. This means that the frequency of unexpected encounters between your child and your dog will increase dramatically. That’s where you’ll find out if all your hard work paid off. In closing, please understand that what I’ve outlined above represents the tip of the iceberg of strategies designed to make the integration of your dog and your child as seamless, warm and rewarding as possible.

While learning and implementing such strategies implies varying amounts of work, it promises a wholesome and fulfilling relationship between your child and your dog. The payoff of this relationship will last for years and thus makes any work you have to put in on the front end more than worth it.

Preparing Your Dog for the Arrival of Your Baby courtesy Dog Articles.

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The Difference Between Dog Training Collars & Dog Tracking Collars

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When it comes to dog collars, the myriad choices can be mighty confusing. You can choose from simple leashes, special training collars for dogs with behavioral issues and tracking collars to keep your pet safe and secure. One thing most people get confused about is whether dog training collars and tracking collars are interchangeable. To put it simply – they aren’t. There are a host of different types of dog training collars itself that are used mainly to teach a new dog or puppy good habits or even break bad habits. Dog-tracking collars on the other hand are used to track and locate a missing pet using the latest GPS technology.

Whatever reason you may have there are plenty of choices for the concerned pet owner. Dog Training Collars: There are dog-training collars for all types of behavioral problems. Choosing the correct one would depend on the type of dog and the issue at hand. For example, does your dog bark excessively? An electric shock collar might be necessary. Electric shock collars are not as cruel as they sound. When a dog continues barking even after being reprimanded, a small shock can be administered, which serves to break this unhealthy pattern. This produces only a minor discomfort and has been proven to be very effective in the long run.

There is also a choke collar or a chain clip collar that offers maximum control over your pet. Used mainly for larger and more unruly dogs, these are popular training tools and used for disciplining and control. Dog training collars are often imperative in protecting your pet from dangerous situations as well. If your dog has a tendency to run after cars, the correct usage of the collar can break this unsafe habit. In the end, dog-training collars can be used not only to remedy bad habits but also train puppies and dogs in discipline and good behavior. That said, they should be used with discretion and not as a regular collar. If you do not recognize the proper use of such collars, you could in fact cause more damage than good. Dog Tracking Collars: Discovering that your pet has gone missing is probably one of the most stressful experiences to go through as a pet owner.

But now, thanks to the latest GPS technology, there is a new, highly effective way of keeping track of your pet at all times. Using the same satellite technology used in your cars and mobile phones, a GPS dog-tracking collar will keep you informed about the whereabouts of your pet 24/7. It will alert you with email or phone updates every time your pet moves away from his predetermined safe zones. It can also give you directions on how to get to your pet if he goes missing. Position Animals Worldwide (PAW) has recently teamed with the American Kennel Club Companion Animal Recovery (AKC CAR) team to create and develop the SpotLight GPS Pet Locator.

SpotLight has the advantage of being water resistant, compact, lightweight, and long lasting. And with a lifetime enrollment in the AKC CAR’s Recovery Service, owners of the SpotLight GPS Pet Locator have access to their call center and the best recovery team available. With SpotLight, tracking and recovery of lost dog is no longer an issue and your missing pet will be returned safely to your home as quickly and efficiently as possible.

The Difference Between Dog Training Collars & Dog Tracking Collars courtesy Dog Articles.

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Post Whelping Care Of Mother Dogs

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After a mother dog (bitch) successfully whelps her puppies, there are specific things you as an owner want to look for to make sure both the newborns and their mother are doing well. Here are some tips on what to expect and what you should do to care for the new family.

Within twenty-four hours of birth, have the pups and mother checked by a veterinarian. The doctor will check for signs of congenital defects in the pups, such as cleft palates or limb deformities. He will also make sure the bitch’s mammary glands are producing enough milk for her babies.

He may administer an injection of oxytocin to start the uterus contracting and shrinking back to pre-pregnancy size. This will also reduce any bleeding from where the placentas were attached, and help expel any remaining material from the uterus. Mom may continue to have some discharge for up to eight weeks after birthing babies, but as long as it doesn’t smell or look foul, there is no cause for alarm.

Keep an eye on the new mother to make sure that she is caring for all her puppies and knows what to do with them. In some cases, bitches that give birth for the first time become aggressive or confused over their role, and she may lie on her puppies, accidentally crushing them.

New mothers will also need good nutrition to feed her pups, so small, frequent meals are a great idea. Her milk production will reach its peak at around three weeks after birth. She will be especially hungry at this time, so feed her puppy food for a few weeks. It has more energy per ounce than regular adult dog food so she can get plenty of nutrients without over filling her stomach.  You will also need to weight the newborn puppies regularly to confirm they are growing and getting enough milk.

Watch for any signs of  mastitis. Red, swollen, or painful mammary glands are the classic signs, but mom may also be very lethargic, feverish and off her food. Another potentially dangerous condition is metritis, an infection and inflammation of the uterus usually caused by a long or especially difficult labor.

If the mother starts to pant, tremble, or have seizures, she may be suffering from a calcium deficiency called eclampsia, which is a serious condition that needs immediate attention and treatment. It’s more common in smaller breeds of dogs, and tends to occur when pups are two to five weeks of age. This is when they’re growing fast, and drinking lots of milk. Mom puts lots of calcium into her milk, which leaves her deficient.

A vet must treat eclampsia quickly because it can be fatal. Treatment is intravenous calcium supplement, and mom may also need sedation to stop the seizures. If your bitch develops eclampsia it’s usually a good idea to wean the pups and hand raise them.

In the majority of cases, moms and pups do just fine and don’t need human intervention. Even so, be sure to keep a good eye on them so if a problem develops, you can get on top of it straight away. This will ensure the best outcome for mom and babies.

Post Whelping Care Of Mother Dogs courtesy of Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking A Puppy

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New puppies are fun and exciting, but they can also be challenging. One of the biggest concerns for a new dog owner is making sure to house-train their puppy. An un-housebroken dog can make a very unpleasant home situation, so getting your puppy started on training should be a priority early on.

One good thing to know is that dogs like to keep their homes clean just like we do. They must, however be able to do that, meaning that you need to be able to let your dog out several times a day to use the restroom. In the first couple of months with their mothers, puppies learn basic hygiene and should therefore already be inclined to go outside, away from their den, if they have the opportunity to.

Housetraining your puppy may very well turn out to be easier than you anticipate it will be. A dog that has easy and frequent access to the outdoors, either through regular walks or a flap doggy dog, is much less likely to have an accident than if he were inside all day. Take your puppy outside every three to four hours and reward good behaviors with praise and he will soon be house trained. While this amount of freedom for your dog is ideal, it may not be practical due to daily schedules.

House breaking gets tough in situations where your puppy has to remain inside for long periods of time. While a dog will naturally not go where he sleeps, you have to teach your puppy the difference between your home, an inappropriate area to go and outdoors, an appropriate area to potty.

This process may be frustrating but investing time and patience into it will make it successful. Accidents will happen, but getting angry or upset about them will only hinder the process. Your puppy doesn’t understand this training situation the way you do and any negative energy directed at them during this time will only make them less likely to housebreak quickly.

A better idea than getting frustrated would be to keep an eye on your puppy and learn the signs of when he needs to go to the restroom. When he is indicating that he needs to go, take him outside and then praise him when he does his business. After he’s done his business, the area will be marked with the scent of his urine and he will be more likely to go back to this spot do his business again. Remember it is a puppy so be patient.

Housebreaking A Puppy courtesy of Dog Articles.

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