behavior

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Socialize Your Dog for Life!

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We tend to forget these days that dogs are pack animals.  Many of us may have just one dog, or even two.  But we don’t see them as they were in nature.  Left to their own devices, dogs join up into a pack, often of related animals.  Like their wolf cousins and ancestors, dogs have a hierarchical structure to their packs, with leaders, assistants, subordinates and followers.  In nature dogs would learn everything they need to know, including dog manners, from their mother and other pack mates.

To live in our world of cars, buildings and cell phones, we have taken dogs almost completely out of their natural world.  In many places they exist without even having fields and forests anymore to share with their humans as they did only 100-200 years ago.  The only way they can exist in our world is if we teach them the skills they need to understand it and to thrive in it.  This means we have to socialize them to the human world and to the people in it.

Socialization means much more than learning a few commands.  Socialization is learning, from birth, to accept humans.  Good breeders begin socializing puppies from the day of their birth, picking them up and holding them, stroking them and talking to them, getting them used to sights and sounds in the house.  This should continue for the first seven weeks of life, with puppies being introduced to new things each week.

From the age of 8 weeks to 12 weeks, the time when many people get their new puppy, puppies are going through a fear imprinting stage.  This means that it is very easy at this time for anything that frightens the puppy to be remembered for the rest of their life.  New owners should take special care during this time to bolster their puppy’s confidence.  Do let puppies see new things and introduce them to new places and people.  Give them time to see that there is nothing to be afraid of.  Give plenty of praise when the puppy is brave and curious about things.  Try not to encourage your puppy to be fearful at this time or reward fearful behavior.  If a loud noise or something frightens your puppy, instead of cuddling the puppy take him to see what it is and show him that it’s okay.  Dance, laugh, be positive instead of petting the puppy for being fearful.  This is the difference between a fearful adult dog and a confident one later in life.

Introduce your puppy to many different people during this time to help him learn that he has nothing to fear from strangers and that he can meet them and be friendly.  Take him for short rides in the car.  Introduce many strange things at this time, such as umbrellas and the vacuum cleaner if he has not already encountered them.  Let him see normal things in unexpected places in the house.  Make sure he gets used to being groomed and bathed during this time.  And, of course, make sure he learns some leash training.  This is helpful since he will be going to the vet for his shots during this time.  Makes these pleasant experiences for him (especially bathing) and your future experiences will be much better.

Exercise basic common sense, of course.  Don’t allow your puppy to put himself in any danger while encouraging him to be confident.  Don’t allow him to wander where other animals have left droppings.  Remember that your puppy is not fully vaccinated yet so limit his socialization time with any unknown pets.  Don’t make your puppy do anything that is frightening for him.  Puppies at this age will remember things forever.  You want to encourage confidence, not ask them to do more than they can cope with.  And, remember that your puppy is just a baby at this time.  He needs lots of sleep and several small meals during the day.  You should only have a couple of socialization sessions per day along with things that occur on their own.

The socialization period continues until dogs are about 20 weeks old.  By that time their basic personality is in place, though socialization can continue for months.  You’ll begin to see your puppy making his own decisions about what he wants to do, what he likes and doesn’t like, what frightens him and what he’s confident about.

Early socialization is an extremely important time in the life of every dog.  You can help your dog adapt to living with humans by working with him during this time and make your future life together a very happy one.

Socialize Your Dog for Life courtesy Dog Articles.

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The Day Of The Show

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Here are the things to take along which are considered necessities: the identification card and dog show ticket, a water pan (although you can always use the cardboard ones supplied by feed companies at most shows), a sponge and towel, a bench collar and bench chain or wire bench crate, a show lead, and finally, a comb and brush.  If you use a tack crate (a crate with drawers), these very useful and necessary articles may be permanently stored in the drawers and will always be ready to go.  If you do not use a tack crate, you will probably “latch on” to an old brief case or small overnight bag which will accompany you to shows, and these things can be stored in it and will always be ready to go.

Here are some things you can also take along if you wish: trimming tools, a bucket (if your water pan is large enough perhaps you will use that, but if your breed is a large one, which may need a lot of cleaning up, the bucket will come in handy), a first-aid kit (you never know what may happen), a thermos of water or coffee, lunch, and a change of shoes for your weary feet.  Everything in this list may be prepared the night before and placed with the necessities.

In the morning, exercise your dog carefully.  If you have a pen for him, fine; otherwise don’t turn him loose; he may wade through a puddle, or, worse, he may chase a passing cat and make you late for your arrival.  I have seen this happen to a friend of mine: the dog decided to take off one morning before a show and they didn’t catch up with him until it was too late to go to the show at all.

Watch to see if your dog evacuates.  If he doesn’t, you will want to give him the opportunity to do so immediately upon arriving at the show.  If not then, try again before he goes into the ring.  Your dog will show better for you if this act has been performed.  However, it happens that no matter how many opportunities you may give a dog to evacuate before he goes into the ring he will decide that right now, in the ring, is the time.  If it happens to you, don’t die of embarrassment.  Remember, it has happened before to others.  Just try, if possible without interrupting the dog, to maneuver him to the side or end of the ring and stay there until he has finished.  When he has finished, go on with whatever you were doing.

The Day Of The Show courtesy Dog Articles.

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Puppy Dog Training

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I know exactly how it can be, you buy that brand new, nice smelling, affectionate dog and you really want to offer it everything beneath the sun. It is a natural reaction for any individual whom looks at a sweet, small puppy to shower him or her with every little thing they would like, however this can certainly cause a few undesirable behavior and produce even more work for you. Now it will be a very good plan for you to get started in your own puppy dog training soon, and let your dog fully understand who is in charge.

As the owner you have to develop a relationship with your new puppy. The relationship you develop has to include a stable foundation, as well as your own puppy needs to learn that you are the leader! Simply by giving in to those puppy dog eyes every time your dog cries, you are just demonstrating to your pet that he is in charge, that he is the boss. In the event that you grant your puppy free reign in and around your house, your dog will never learn self-control, discipline, and will lack respect for your entire family.

A dog not possessing respect for their master will be the hardest achievable circumstances to have. By simply giving into your own pup, he may mature to become an even much larger monster, with absolutely no behavior training, rowdy as well as a lot of instances aggressive towards some other pets along with individuals. Most dog owners who possess these puppy dog training issues, often times simply give them away to shelters or even worse, simply abandon them. I do not wish this to take place to any pet therefore carry out with your puppy dog training.

In order to achieve control and respect via your very new pup you must challenge him or her with some primary commands. These types of commands need to be comparable to Sit, Stay, Down, and so forth. You should help make your puppy sit prior to he will go outdoors, or goes for a walk. Make your pet follow some important commands just before his routines and he will probably soon understand he has to comply to you before he or she receives everything that he wishes. Keep in mind that pups love a challenge, so turn this kind of instinct into a positive effort for you. Get your own puppy to pick up their toys, sit, fetch tennis balls, anything that places you in control. As a result of making your pup comply with several primary instructions on a daily basis, he or she will probably quickly understand that if he or she complies to your request, he will get a treat.

Or perhaps he will get his favorite toy, or go for a stroll. The faster your own puppy can pick up on this partnership you are creating with him, the quicker you will find benefits throughout your puppy dog training. Whenever your puppy follows through along with your instructions you should continually encourage him highly enthusiastically! When your puppy recognizes that he pleased you, your dog will certainly want to carry on with this kind of behavior over and over repeatedly. You never want to yell or discipline ones canine throughout your puppy dog training due to the fact that this particular kind of actions will certainly just set you back, and also make your pet plan to rebel against just about any command you require of him.

Puppy Dog Training courtesy Dog Articles.

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Studying The Results Of Experienced Handlers

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Good advice for people who want to show their dog is to watch the good handlers in your breed.  It is also wise of you to know your breed well.  Here is one very good reason why this is important:  A novice watches a good handler show a dog.  He sees the handler place his hand on the dog’s rump, between the hipbones and the tail set.  The handler makes sure the judge has seen him do this.  The judge looks at the same spot on the other dogs in the class and gives the first prize to the handler of whom we’re speaking.  The novice, if he doesn’t know why the handler acted as he did, mimics the handler when he shows his dog but with disastrous results.  Why?  The novice did not know he was pointing out a fault in his dog whereas the handler was pointing out a good spot on his dog.  The Standard of perfection for the breed in question states that this breed should have a medium-high tail set.  The smart handler noticed when he came into the ring that his dog had a very good tail set but the other dogs in the ring were faulty at this spot.

Where the competition is keen, these things count quite a lot.  The handler placed his hand on his dog’s good spot, the judge saw it, recognized that the dog excelled here, looked at the other dogs, realized that they were faulty here, and gave the award to the handler.  The novice, if he doesn’t know his breed, does the same thing, but instead of pointing out his dog’s good spot, he points out what may be his dog’s main fault, a poor tail set.  The same situation might exist regarding throat on a dog, or clean-cut shoulders, or good feet, or any number of spots where a dog excels, when pointed out, it may help the decision come your way.

It is best if you do not try to point out good or bad parts of your dog until you know very well what they are and how best to point them out, and until you are able to recognize as soon as you enter the ring whether or not it is to your advantage to point them out.  When you feel you do know, please don’t be obnoxious about it.  If you cannot do it in a nice way, don’t do it at all.

At times during a dog show there has been two excited handlers who decided to show the judge how good their dogs were.  They got so intent on what they were doing, each trying to outdo the other, that the judge became annoyed.  He said they were insulting his intelligence – that he could and would find the dog of his liking without any further help from the handlers.  This could prove disastrous results for you if not taken into account during  a dog show.

Studying The Results Of Experienced Handlers courtesy Dog Articles.

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Great Dane Training to Modify Behavior Problems

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Great Danes are known for being charming and affectionate dogs despite their size. However, as with the case with any other dog, without proper training, certain behavioral issues are bound to arise. But with enough consistency and patience, Great Dane training need not be a daunting task. It may take some time, but bear in mind that there aren’t any behavioral problems that can’t be corrected.

The most important aspect of Great Dane training is socializing your dog.

Great Danes love being around other people. In fact, they crave the attention and affection. But because of their size, it is quite common for most families to simply arrange a space for them outdoors and leave them out in the yard. If this is the case, depriving them of attention and affection can cause them to develop certain behavioral problems. Instead of their natural pleasant disposition, they may tend to appear aloof and distant.

The most common ways Great Danes cope with anxiety are by excessive digging, whining, barking, and growling. Here are a few pointers for efficient Great Dane training:

1. Digging Digging is part of a dog’s general nature. However, it does become a problem if your Great Dane starts digging in several places in your yard. You don’t want your dog destroying your beautiful landscape do you? To solve this, designate one area where your dog can dig. A common trick most people use is burying its feces where you don’t want it to dig and burying a dog bone in an area where it can dig. Digging up its own feces will discourage it from ever touching that area.

2. Whining and barking Whining or barking is a way for dogs to get attention. Our natural tendency is to come to our dog’s aid and see what is wrong. But once we see that there’s nothing really wrong, and that it just wants our attention, try not to encourage this behavior. Wait until it‘s calm before you approach it. Immediately giving in to its call for attention is like spoiling a child. Let your dog know that there is a proper way to get what it wants.

3. Growling If a Great Dane has not been properly socialized, its tendency will be to growl at strangers. This can be quite terrifying considering its size. Just keep in mind that Great Danes are not aggressive dogs. Make it a point to introduce them to other people and dogs. Growling can either be a sign of fear or it may simply be a defense mechanism. Once you let them know that it’s completely safe to have company, your dog will definitely come around.

Great Dane training is simple like other dog training. It’s always good to address behavioral problems as early as possible. Lucky for you, it is in their genetic make-up to be loving and friendly companions. Do your part and help your dog prove to others what an endearing pet it really is.

Great Dane Training to Modify Behavior Problems courtesy Dog Articles.

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History and Origin of Pembroke Welsh Corgis

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The origin of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is unclear.It is thought to have lived in Pembrokeshire, Wales, in the 10th century. Its name comes from the Welsh for heeling dog. It might have been bred from the Swedish Valhund and the Welsh Cardigan Corgi. In the year 920 King Hywel Dda of South Wales declared a law that Corgis were not be abused. Another breed introduced to Wales by Flemish weavers in 1107 may have interbred with earlier Corgis. Some experts believe that the breed is descended from the old Shipperke and belongs in the same family as the Keeshond, Pomeranian, Spitz, Samoyed, Chow Chow, and Norwegian Elkhound. One legend has it that the breed was given to the people by fairies, although this story is given little credence.

Corgis were bred for herding cattle, sheep and Welsh ponies. Their low stature made it possible for them to herd chasing larger animals and nipping their heels while being too low to the ground for the herd animals to kick. If an animal were to try to turn around, the Corgi would nip its nose. The dogs were also used for guarding children and for family pets, as they are today.

Corgis were first shown in the ring in 1925 in Wales. Since Pembrokeshire and Cardiganshire are only a few miles apart, there was a great deal of interbreeding between Pembroke Welsh Corgis and Cardigan Welsh Corgis until 1934 when the American Kennel Club and the Kennel Club of the United Kingdom established them as two separate dog breeds, to be shown separately.

At about that time the Duke of York gave Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppies to his daughters, Elizabeth, later to become Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, and Margaret Rose. Her Majesty still keeps a pack of the little dogs.

Pembroke Welsh Corgis continue to serve as cattle herding dogs on farms in Wales and as pets in many parts of the United Kingdom and the United States.

History and Origin of Pembroke Welsh Corgis courtesy Dog Articles.

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Your New Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy – A Supplies Checklist

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Acquiring a pet as an addition to the home may be one of the most rewarding things in life. Choosing a Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppy in itself is already a plus. With proper care and attention, Pembroke Welsh Corgis develop to be intelligent, loving, and affectionate companions. However, bear in mind that your newest family member also comes with special needs. This simple checklist will help assure that you acquire all the essentials to keep your new puppy happy and healthy. Cover the basics with these items:

Collar – collars are not just an accessory, they ensure control over your dog. Sometimes it’s also good to have a harness as not to injure your dog especially when you take it on walks.

Leash – Traditional and retractable ones both work fine.

Name tag – In case your little one decides to wander off on its own.  Small bell for collar – It always helps to keep track of your new puppy since they are usually very quiet.

Carrier /crate- For convenient transportation of your new puppy. This will also aide you in puppy training in the future.  Restraining gate – To ensure secure a place for it in your home.

Healthy treats – This is especially crucial since Pembroke Welsh Corgis are prone to obesity.  Toys – To keep your puppy entertained as well as stimulate it mentally.

Pooper scooper – To help you conveniently clean up its mess when nature calls. Health and Hygiene needs of your new Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy:  Dog food – Some dogs may prefer dry pellets, while some prefer canned food. But to start off, you can always do a combination of both. Simply mix in a teaspoon of canned food with some pellets for each feeding.

Food and water bowls – To establish a permanent feeding station for your dog.

Food scoop and storage bin – To keep its food clean and fresh.

Shampoo – Make sure you get a mild product especially made for puppies.

Dental Health Products – This includes specially formulated toothpaste for dogs, a brush, and finger glove for more accurate cleaning.

Finishing Touches: Microchipping – perhaps one of the greatest investments you can make for your puppy. The moment you acquire your new Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppy, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for a general check-up. Make sure you cover issues with vaccination and other health concerns. Take your dog home and get settled. Spend time with it to help it bond with all the other members of the family and make sure it adjusts well to its new home. Most importantly, give your puppy the best care it can get.

Your New Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy – A Supplies Checklist courtesy Dog Articles.

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Requirements Before Breeding

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During breeding, some female dogs tend to be uncooperative.  Therefore, it is usually necessary to assist your young stud.  If you are there helping him and praising him, whether or not your help is actually needed, he will expect and accept this as a matter of course when a difficult female dog comes along.

Supplies that you may need for breeding include K-Y jelly and a length of gauze with which to muzzle the female should it be necessary to keep her from biting you or the stud.  Some females put up a fight while others are calm.  It is therefore best to be prepared.

It is wise for both parties to have the terms of the transaction clearly understood before the breeding starts.  At the time of the breeding, the stud fee is expected to be paid promptly.  A return service is normally offered in case the female misses or fails to produce one live puppy.  The owner of the stud dog usually sets the conditions of the service and there are no standard rules covering this. The stud fee is paid for the act, not the result. If the female fails to conceive, it is customary for the owner to offer a free return service; but this is a courtesy and not to be considered a mandatory, especially in the case of a proven stud.  Stud dog owners are always anxious to see their clients get good value and to see winning young stock in the ring by their dog.

If the return service has been provided and the female dog has missed a second time, that is considered to be the end of the matter and the owner would be expected to pay a further fee if it is felt that the female should be given a third chance with the stud dog.  The owner of a stud dog and his visiting females is quite a task, and a stud fee has usually been well earned when one service has been achieved.

One live puppy is considered as an accepted litter.  It is ideal to have a printed  breeding certificate to which the owner of the stud dog and the owner of the female dog both sign. This should list in detail the conditions of the breeding as well as the dates of the mating.  On some occasion, arrangements other than a stud fee in cash are made for a breeding, such as the owner of the stud taking a pick from the litter puppy in lieu of money.  This should be clearly specified on the breeding certificate along with the terms of the age at which the stud’s owner will select the puppy, whether it is to be a boy or a girl, or whether it is to be the pick of the entire litter.

Requirements Before Breeding courtesy Dog Articles.

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Pembroke Welsh Corgi – The Smallest of the Herding Dogs

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The Pembroke Welsh Corgi is a fascinating and robust pooch. Although only 10 to 12 inches high at the shoulder, this little breed packs a punch. They were originally designed to herd cattle, sheep and other livestock. Their shortness was key as they were able to dodge kicks from livestock, in particular avoiding a kick altogether by having the hooves swing just over their heads.

Their stout stature is accompanied by short yet thick legs and they are much longer than they are tall. This dog breed was first recorded in the 11th century and was simply referred to as a Corgi. In 1926, they were accepted by the AKC (American Kennel Club), but it wasn’t until 1936 that two distinct breeds were recognized. There are two Corgi dog breeds, the Cardigan Welsh Corgi and the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. The main difference between the two is that one has the presence of and one has the lack of a tail.

The Pembroke Welsh Corgi has a naturally bobbed tail. If a Pembroke is born with a short tail, it is said that the genetics of its predecessor (the Cardigan) have been exhibited. That dog then has its tail docked and is not used in the breeding process. Another characteristic of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is that it is not as thick boned as the Cardigan, but none the less sturdy and quick in stride. The thick legs are followed closely by a thick undercoat to protect them from the weather and has slightly longer guard hairs. Because of this thick coat of fur, they need to be brushed regularly, at least five solid minutes once a week, but more like 15 minutes. Bathing should be done only occasionally, maybe once every two or three months. Another obvious characteristic of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi (and the Cardigan) is its large ears.

They stand up and are designed to catch the sound of their owner as they whistled commands to them in the field. Their eyes are slightly oval in shape and these dog breeds have keen eyesight. It is because of their long backs that the Pembroke Welsh Corgi and Cardigan are prone to intervertebral disc disease. Another concern may be hip dysplasia as this dog is very active and loves to run, their hips are more prone to damage. Hip dysplasia is also due to its overall bone structure as well. However, good breeding helps to reduce these medical possibilities. Their health is good overall and these dog breeds live for 11 to 13 years of age. As far as their temperament goes, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is active, loving, devoted to its family and a wonderful companion. They can live outside, but crave the company of their family and are better suited to be indoors. Their size makes them compatible with apartment living. They do require daily exercise and mental stimulation, however. A nice long leash walk and some play time with a few toys can meet this requirement and also create a long lasting bond.

Pembroke Welsh Corgi – The Smallest of the Herding Dogs courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts

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Dogs are considered “man’s best friend” for a good reason – they are known to develop deep and meaningful bonds with their owners and remain loyal to them. Television shows, movies and books have all been devoted to the intensity of the bond between a human and their dog and this isn’t without good reason!

If you have a new puppy in your home, congrats! A dog can be your closest friend in the world and will never turn down your affections, will never stop listening when you need an ear and will be your friend for the rest of their life if you take the time to build a healthy relationship with them.

However, the dog in your home does not make the rules. You do. That being the case, you need to make sure your animal understands what is acceptable and what is not. Dogs don’t train themselves!

Be sure to make big decisions early such as what he will chew on and play with, where he will sleep and what is off limits to him (for example: Can he get on the furniture? Are any rooms in the home off limits?).

Housebreaking your dog as a young puppy will help ensure they respond successfully and quickly to the training and thus be a happy and positive member to the household, causing you (and him) as little stress as possible.

The crate training method is a perfectly humane and quick way to train your puppy not to go in the house.

Before we dive into that, some Do’s and Don’ts on housebreaking your new family member:

Do’s:

Be Consistent. Without your consistency, your puppy will only get confused as to what you are expecting it to do.

Do regulate your dog’s food and water intake during the day. Never withhold food or water if your animal needs it, but remember that the more your animal eats or drinks, the more it will need to go to the bathroom.

Do remember to stay close to your puppy. If you aren’t near him, he will have no way to get let out to use the restroom. If you have to be gone for long periods of time while you are training him, make sure that you keep the puppy in a limited area of your home where you are prepared to have accidents happen.

Do reward your doggy with praise whenever he does what you’ve asked or expected him to do. Your puppy wants to make you happy and he needs to learn what are the right things to do that generate that praise he is seeking.

Be realistic. As frustrating as house training can be, your new dog may not be completely housebroken until 6 months of age or more.

Don’ts:

Don’t allow your pup to use the restroom anywhere other than his designated area during the training period.

Don’t discipline your dog when he has an accident. While housebreaking a new puppy, accidents are inevitable and when they do happen it means you did not get him outside to use the restroom soon enough. Clean up the mess and move forward.

Don’t use your puppy’s crate as a way to punish them, the crate should not be associated with negativity. Also, don’t lock your doggy up in their crate for long periods of time.

The crate method and why it works:

Dogs are by nature picky about where they do their business. They will not use the restroom where they eat or sleep. If your puppy sleeps in their crate, they simply will not use the restroom in it.

To Begin With:

– Puppies urinate often. Anytime they drink, eat, run, chew, play or walk they will need to use the restroom within 15-30 minutes following depending on the size, age, temperament, and breed of your puppy.

– Document how often and when your puppy needs to do his business for a few days. Keeping an eye on his general schedule will make training easier.

– After you’ve determined your puppy’s natural schedule, plan your walks around it. Between the ages of 10 weeks to 6 months, your puppy should be taken out or walked 5 to 10 times daily. Between 6 months and 11 months this number will drop down to 4 to 6 times daily. After he is grown 3 to 4 times daily should be enough.

–  Especially on your first walk of the day (after your dog has spent the night in their crate), do not come home from your walk until your puppy has done their business. If, for whatever reason, you do need to return, return your puppy to his crate and let him back out every 15 minutes until they use the restroom.

The crate:

Your puppy’s crate is his special sanctuary away from any stresses during the day. It functions as his bedroom and his own personal spot that no one else uses.

Your puppy should associate his crate with only positive things. Be sure to keep his favorite toys, blankets and treats inside. While he is still adjusting to the crate, leave the crate door open until he has no anxiety about being inside it.

The better your puppy feels about his crate, the lower the chances of him using the restroom inside it.

Do not encourage bad behaviors by letting your puppy out of the crate for whining, scratching or barking.

Getting Started:

– Create a daily schedule of taking your puppy out and feeding him.

– At night time, put your puppy in his crate, but be sure to take him outside first thing in the morning and do not return from your walk until he has used the restroom.

– After you’ve taken your puppy out and he has eliminated, bring him indoors and allow him to play for about an hour. (Also remember to keep an eye on his whereabouts in the house until he is fully housebroken.)

– Feed your puppy.

– Using the information about your puppy’s natural schedule that you’ve already written down, take him outside within fifteen minutes of when you anticipate he will need to go. Do not return from outside until he has used the restroom.

– Come back inside and allow the puppy to play.

– Put your puppy back in his crate for naptime.

Repeat this schedule throughout your day.

This may seem like a ton of effort, and it is, but this is a method that is wildly effective. Your puppy will quickly be house trained and when your puppy is older, he will inform you when he needs to go out. During the training process, you will have confidence in your dog and know that accidents are much less likely to happen.

Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts courtesy Dog Articles.

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