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Your New Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy – A Supplies Checklist

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Acquiring a pet as an addition to the home may be one of the most rewarding things in life. Choosing a Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppy in itself is already a plus. With proper care and attention, Pembroke Welsh Corgis develop to be intelligent, loving, and affectionate companions. However, bear in mind that your newest family member also comes with special needs. This simple checklist will help assure that you acquire all the essentials to keep your new puppy happy and healthy. Cover the basics with these items:

Collar – collars are not just an accessory, they ensure control over your dog. Sometimes it’s also good to have a harness as not to injure your dog especially when you take it on walks.

Leash – Traditional and retractable ones both work fine.

Name tag – In case your little one decides to wander off on its own.  Small bell for collar – It always helps to keep track of your new puppy since they are usually very quiet.

Carrier /crate- For convenient transportation of your new puppy. This will also aide you in puppy training in the future.  Restraining gate – To ensure secure a place for it in your home.

Healthy treats – This is especially crucial since Pembroke Welsh Corgis are prone to obesity.  Toys – To keep your puppy entertained as well as stimulate it mentally.

Pooper scooper – To help you conveniently clean up its mess when nature calls. Health and Hygiene needs of your new Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy:  Dog food – Some dogs may prefer dry pellets, while some prefer canned food. But to start off, you can always do a combination of both. Simply mix in a teaspoon of canned food with some pellets for each feeding.

Food and water bowls – To establish a permanent feeding station for your dog.

Food scoop and storage bin – To keep its food clean and fresh.

Shampoo – Make sure you get a mild product especially made for puppies.

Dental Health Products – This includes specially formulated toothpaste for dogs, a brush, and finger glove for more accurate cleaning.

Finishing Touches: Microchipping – perhaps one of the greatest investments you can make for your puppy. The moment you acquire your new Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppy, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for a general check-up. Make sure you cover issues with vaccination and other health concerns. Take your dog home and get settled. Spend time with it to help it bond with all the other members of the family and make sure it adjusts well to its new home. Most importantly, give your puppy the best care it can get.

Your New Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy – A Supplies Checklist courtesy Dog Articles.

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Pembroke Welsh Corgi – The Smallest of the Herding Dogs

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The Pembroke Welsh Corgi is a fascinating and robust pooch. Although only 10 to 12 inches high at the shoulder, this little breed packs a punch. They were originally designed to herd cattle, sheep and other livestock. Their shortness was key as they were able to dodge kicks from livestock, in particular avoiding a kick altogether by having the hooves swing just over their heads.

Their stout stature is accompanied by short yet thick legs and they are much longer than they are tall. This dog breed was first recorded in the 11th century and was simply referred to as a Corgi. In 1926, they were accepted by the AKC (American Kennel Club), but it wasn’t until 1936 that two distinct breeds were recognized. There are two Corgi dog breeds, the Cardigan Welsh Corgi and the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. The main difference between the two is that one has the presence of and one has the lack of a tail.

The Pembroke Welsh Corgi has a naturally bobbed tail. If a Pembroke is born with a short tail, it is said that the genetics of its predecessor (the Cardigan) have been exhibited. That dog then has its tail docked and is not used in the breeding process. Another characteristic of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is that it is not as thick boned as the Cardigan, but none the less sturdy and quick in stride. The thick legs are followed closely by a thick undercoat to protect them from the weather and has slightly longer guard hairs. Because of this thick coat of fur, they need to be brushed regularly, at least five solid minutes once a week, but more like 15 minutes. Bathing should be done only occasionally, maybe once every two or three months. Another obvious characteristic of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi (and the Cardigan) is its large ears.

They stand up and are designed to catch the sound of their owner as they whistled commands to them in the field. Their eyes are slightly oval in shape and these dog breeds have keen eyesight. It is because of their long backs that the Pembroke Welsh Corgi and Cardigan are prone to intervertebral disc disease. Another concern may be hip dysplasia as this dog is very active and loves to run, their hips are more prone to damage. Hip dysplasia is also due to its overall bone structure as well. However, good breeding helps to reduce these medical possibilities. Their health is good overall and these dog breeds live for 11 to 13 years of age. As far as their temperament goes, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is active, loving, devoted to its family and a wonderful companion. They can live outside, but crave the company of their family and are better suited to be indoors. Their size makes them compatible with apartment living. They do require daily exercise and mental stimulation, however. A nice long leash walk and some play time with a few toys can meet this requirement and also create a long lasting bond.

Pembroke Welsh Corgi – The Smallest of the Herding Dogs courtesy Dog Articles.

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How Is A Cardigan Welsh Corgi Different From A Pembroke Welsh Corgi?

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There are a number of differences between these two breeds starting from the early beginnings where some people have said that the older Cardigan Welsh Corgi’s were from Cardiganshire, possibly brought there by the Celts in 1200BC. While the Pembroke Welsh Corgi’s ancestors were thought to be introduced by Flemish weavers to the Celts in the 1100BC.

Either way they were interbred and considered the same breed until 1934 where the two different breeds were identified and separated from then on. The most obvious distinction between the two breeds is that the Pembroke Welsh Corgi has a natural bob tail (short tail) or sometimes born without a tail. They also have straighter legs due to the shorter body length. Their head is generally in a wedge- shape with smaller ears that are situated close together as well as they tend to be the lightest breed between the two.

They have been known to have a higher risk for hip dysplasia. The Cardigan Welsh Corgi’s tend to me more active than their counter-part and need regular exercises. They are also slightly larger in size but have shorter legs and have their full tail. There are more colors and patterns in this breed as well as being the less common breed between the two. Their coat is generally a bit wiry in comparison, but both breeds have a double coat fur for weather resistance. With much shorter legs than the Pembroke, this helps them when they role away from the dangers of kicking cows. Their personalities may differ slightly as the Cardigan Welsh Corgi is said to be more reserved, although both are quite stubborn, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi tends to be more tolerant of other non-canine animals in the household.

The Pembroke Welsh Corgis are also the favorite breed of Queen Elizabeth II who owns quite a few; they have been favored for over seventy years within the British Royalty. At last count she owned 16 of them. As part of the history between these two breeds there are two theories in regards to their origin: That some Cardi’s were cross bred with the Swedish Vallhund Dogs, or some of the original Pem’s evolved from the Cardi’s and other dogs, including Pomeranian, Schipperke and other Spitz-type dogs. In general these two lovable breeds are extremely similar in looks; intelligence and temperament, but still have their slight individualism’s and traits that stand them apart. Lee Mullins discusses differences between a Pembroke Welsh Corgi and a Cardigan Welsh Corgi.

How Is A Cardigan Welsh Corgi Different From A Pembroke Welsh Corgi courtesy Dog Articles.

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Corgi Training : Teaching Basic Obedience

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There are two breeds of Corgis, the Cardigan Welsh Corgi and the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. They are both herding dogs, very intelligent and eager to please. When you begin your Corgi training, it is important to keep in mind what these dogs were bred for. The Corgi is a herding dog and thus can learn commands easily. However, when it comes to certain situations, instinct may take over. For instance if a toddler decides to run around in the yard, a Corgi may decide to herd the toddler, which may look cute, but can be harmful.

Herding behavior includes nipping at heels, barking and pulling on pant legs. Excessive barking is probably the most annoying of these behaviors. These are all things that a house pet needs to learn not to do. After all, you don’t want your neighbors hating you because of your dog. However, if you live on a farm and are using your Corgi for what it was bred to do (herding cattle, sheep and other livestock), you need not remove this instinct with training.

One of the ways to curb these herding instincts is with basic obedience training. There are four basic commands that you should instill in your pet during your Corgi training, “sit, come, stay and no”. Actually, all dog training should include these commands. Regarding Corgi training specifically, you may want to add “quiet” to their repertoire, as well as “leave it” and perhaps “gentle.” These last three commands will give you some control over their barking and their potential to focus their herding instincts on inappropriate items, animals or people.

When beginning your Corgi training, “come” should be the first training hurdle. They need to know their name and come to you every time you ask them to. You want them to want to come to you, so praise works well as a reward, but tiny dog training treats work well too. You want to start out on a leash and have your Corgi go to the full length of the lead and then say “come.” When they come to you in response to their name and the command, give them a reward. Even if they seem to get it and follow the command every time, you need to keep repeating this all the time. Corgis can often take off after things and need to come back.

As they are already quite low to the ground, the command “lie down” need not be taught, but they should know how to “sit”, and you may have to actually teach them not to jump on people. The Corgi can be a little stand offish to strangers and they should know that it is okay to be nice to those that you accept in your home. So, the “be nice” command may come in handy.

Eventually, you want your Corgi training to create a well behaved dog that will come every time it is called, sit when you ask it to, stay back when you don’t want it to intrude, leave things alone that are inappropriate, is quiet on command, and is gentle and nice to you those around you. The dog training process should be fun and is a great way to mentally stimulate and exercise your energetic little pooch.

Corgi Training : Teaching Basic Obedience courtesy Dog Articles.

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Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever

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The general appearance of the Labrador should be that of a strongly built and a very active dog. He should be fairly wide over the loins and strong and muscular in the hindquarters. The coat should be close, short, dense and free from feather.

The skull should be wide, giving brain room; there should be a slight stop, the brow should be slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The head should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks. The jaws should be long and powerful; the nose should be wide and the nostrils are well developed. Teeth should be strong and regular.

The ears should hang moderately close to the head, rather far back, should be set somewhat low and not be large and heavy. The eyes should be of a medium size, expressing great intelligence and good temper, and can be brown, yellow or black, but brown or black is preferred.

The neck should be medium length, powerful and not throaty. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The chest must be of good width and depth, the ribs are well sprung and the loins wide and strong, stifles are well turned, and the hindquarters are well developed and of great power.

The legs must be straight from the shoulder to ground, and the feet compact with toes well arched, and pads well developed; the hocks should be well bent, and the dog must neither be cow hocked nor be too wide behind; he must stand and move true all round on legs and feet. Legs should be of medium length, showing good bone and muscle, but not so short as to be out of balance with rest of body.

The tail is a distinctive feature of the breed; it should be very thick towards the base, gradually tapering towards the tip, of medium length, should be free from any feathering, and should be clothed thickly all round with the Labrador’s short, thick, dense coat, thus giving the peculiar “rounded” appearance which has been described as the “otter” tail. The tail may be carried gaily but should not curl over the back.

The coat is another very distinctive feature; it should be short, very dense and without wave, and should give a fairly hard feeling to the hand.

Movement should be free and effortless. The forelegs should be strong and true, and correctly placed. Watching a dog move towards one, there should be no signs of elbows being out in front, but neatly held to the body with legs not too close together, and moving straight forward without pacing or weaving. When viewing the dog from the rear, you should get the impression that the hind legs, which should be well muscled and not cow hocked, move as nearly parallel as possible, with hocks doing their full share of work and flexing well, thus giving the appearance of power and strength.

Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever courtesy Dog Articles.

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Helping The Mother Dog Give Birth

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Sometimes you may have to assist the mother while she is giving birth.  Puppies are usually delivered head first in a diving position while some are born tail and hind legs first.  If the mother is having a hard time with the delivery, you can help her by gently pulling out the exposed puppy as she restrains.  However, if only the legs are out, call the vet immediately for advice.  If the mother does not lick the newborn puppy, you will need to remove the membrane from his face and clear the fluid from his nose and mouth.  Rub the newborn puppy vigorously with a towel in order to stimulate his first breath.  Do not handle the newborn puppy more than what is necessary.

Helping a weak puppy after delivery

Once the puppy has been cleaned, check to make sure that he is breathing properly.  If he looks normal but appears weak or lifeless, gently but firmly massage him with a towel, particularly around the head and the chest.  A puppy that stays in the birth canal for a long period of time results in a lack of oxygen to the brain.

If he is still not breathing after you are finished rubbing him with a towel, suspend him by his hind legs for a few seconds to allow the fluids to drain from the air passages.  Gently shake him while keeping a secure grip on his hind legs.  This should stimulate him to start breathing.  Once the puppy is breathing, keep him warm and comfortable by wrapping him in a towel until the mother has finished giving birth.  When the whelping has finished, show the weak puppy to his mother and make sure that he finds a productive nipple.  Observe him for a few days to ensure that he is not bullied by stronger puppies in the litter.

The mother normally chews through the umbilical cord.  If she does not, you can tie off the cord using a thread about 2 inches from the puppy’s belly and then cut it on the opposite side of the knot, away from the puppy.  Be very careful when doing this and do not pull on the umbilical cord.

Sometimes the mother may reject the puppy if it is taken away.  In this case, bring the puppy to her and allow her to lick him and then place him where he can suckle.

Helping The Mother Dog Give Birth courtesy Dog Articles.

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