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The general appearance of the Labrador should be that of a strongly built and a very active dog. He should be fairly wide over the loins and strong and muscular in the hindquarters. The coat should be close, short, dense and free from feather.

The skull should be wide, giving brain room; there should be a slight stop, the brow should be slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The head should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks. The jaws should be long and powerful; the nose should be wide and the nostrils are well developed. Teeth should be strong and regular.

The ears should hang moderately close to the head, rather far back, should be set somewhat low and not be large and heavy. The eyes should be of a medium size, expressing great intelligence and good temper, and can be brown, yellow or black, but brown or black is preferred.

The neck should be medium length, powerful and not throaty. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The chest must be of good width and depth, the ribs are well sprung and the loins wide and strong, stifles are well turned, and the hindquarters are well developed and of great power.

The legs must be straight from the shoulder to ground, and the feet compact with toes well arched, and pads well developed; the hocks should be well bent, and the dog must neither be cow hocked nor be too wide behind; he must stand and move true all round on legs and feet. Legs should be of medium length, showing good bone and muscle, but not so short as to be out of balance with rest of body.

The tail is a distinctive feature of the breed; it should be very thick towards the base, gradually tapering towards the tip, of medium length, should be free from any feathering, and should be clothed thickly all round with the Labrador’s short, thick, dense coat, thus giving the peculiar “rounded” appearance which has been described as the “otter” tail. The tail may be carried gaily but should not curl over the back.

The coat is another very distinctive feature; it should be short, very dense and without wave, and should give a fairly hard feeling to the hand.

Movement should be free and effortless. The forelegs should be strong and true, and correctly placed. Watching a dog move towards one, there should be no signs of elbows being out in front, but neatly held to the body with legs not too close together, and moving straight forward without pacing or weaving. When viewing the dog from the rear, you should get the impression that the hind legs, which should be well muscled and not cow hocked, move as nearly parallel as possible, with hocks doing their full share of work and flexing well, thus giving the appearance of power and strength.

Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever courtesy Dog Articles.

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In your mind you and your dog are traveling down the road in a convertible. The top is down and you and your dog are letting the wind blow through your hair (and fur) as you drive off into the sunset. It’s a beautiful fantasy. Unfortunately, in real life, your dog drools, whines and throws up every time you try to put him in the car. A quick trip to the vet for his shots leaves him shaking and staring at you like you’re going to have him put to sleep. Taking your dog on an actual vacation would probably mean the end of your relationship.

What have you done to deserve this? Why does your dog hate to travel? And, is there anything you can do to make things better?

Contrary to popular belief, carsickness and travel anxiety can occur in any dog. Even puppies that are introduced to riding in cars at a very young age may develop into bad travelers. Some dogs simply seem to be more anxious by nature than other dogs. Certainly socialization in all forms will help to create a more secure, more confident dog, which can decrease anxiety in general. But if your dog becomes anxious about traveling in the car it’s going to take some work to help him get over his carsickness problems.

If you have a puppy or young dog do try to make the car a fun place for them, especially when you aren’t going anywhere. Play with your puppy in the car or van. Spend time there that isn’t associated with traveling. Let it be a place for games and playtime. That way, when you put your dog in the car or van to go on a short trip, your dog will associate the vehicle with good things. That good attitude may help a little.

Whether you have a puppy or a dog that is already experiencing some travel problems, go for very short trips. Drive around the block. Go back home before your puppy or dog can develop any bad reaction to the trip. Praise your puppy or dog and give them treats. You can do this several times a week, gradually making the trips a little longer. Most puppies will be fine with this routine and develop into great little travelers. If you have a dog which is already showing signs of being a bad traveler you should monitor him carefully to see how far you can drive before he starts having problems. See if you can slowly help him get a little further each time but don’t push things too far or make him uncomfortable. Carsickness is a very real, physical problem and if your dog is carsick he can’t help it.

Keep in mind that once a dog has been sick in your car that the odor will linger for quite a while. You may stop noticing it but your dog can still detect it. The scent of it may contribute to making him sick again so be sure to try to thoroughly clean any carsickness accidents in your vehicle. This will help your dog do better the next time you make an attempt.

If your dog isn’t improving by trying to gradually lengthen his trips in the car you can try some natural remedies. One of the old favorites uses ginger cookies or any kind of cookie or treat with ginger. Ginger is a traditional home remedy for settling an upset stomach and it works well for dogs as well as humans.

Some people recommend pheromones. Comfort Zone with D.A.P (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) has helped some dogs by reducing anxiety.

Herbal and nutritional remedies are also popular. Composure Liquid by Vetri-Science has been used with success by some owners. Nutricalm has also worked to reduce anxiety for some dogs.

Some people prefer the Bach Flower Essences, such as Rescue Remedy.

If the natural remedies don’t work for you and your dog you may wish to try the over-the-counter anti-nausea drug Dramamine. Dramamine helps many dogs who don’t travel well. If your dog still has problems with traveling you should consult your veterinarian. He or she may prescribe something stronger for anxiety, such as Valium or Serax.

You don’t have to give up your dream of traveling with your dog but it may take a little work to get the two of you on the road together.

My Dog Hates To Travel courtesy Dog Articles.

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