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Studying The Results Of Experienced Handlers

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Good advice for people who want to show their dog is to watch the good handlers in your breed.  It is also wise of you to know your breed well.  Here is one very good reason why this is important:  A novice watches a good handler show a dog.  He sees the handler place his hand on the dog’s rump, between the hipbones and the tail set.  The handler makes sure the judge has seen him do this.  The judge looks at the same spot on the other dogs in the class and gives the first prize to the handler of whom we’re speaking.  The novice, if he doesn’t know why the handler acted as he did, mimics the handler when he shows his dog but with disastrous results.  Why?  The novice did not know he was pointing out a fault in his dog whereas the handler was pointing out a good spot on his dog.  The Standard of perfection for the breed in question states that this breed should have a medium-high tail set.  The smart handler noticed when he came into the ring that his dog had a very good tail set but the other dogs in the ring were faulty at this spot.

Where the competition is keen, these things count quite a lot.  The handler placed his hand on his dog’s good spot, the judge saw it, recognized that the dog excelled here, looked at the other dogs, realized that they were faulty here, and gave the award to the handler.  The novice, if he doesn’t know his breed, does the same thing, but instead of pointing out his dog’s good spot, he points out what may be his dog’s main fault, a poor tail set.  The same situation might exist regarding throat on a dog, or clean-cut shoulders, or good feet, or any number of spots where a dog excels, when pointed out, it may help the decision come your way.

It is best if you do not try to point out good or bad parts of your dog until you know very well what they are and how best to point them out, and until you are able to recognize as soon as you enter the ring whether or not it is to your advantage to point them out.  When you feel you do know, please don’t be obnoxious about it.  If you cannot do it in a nice way, don’t do it at all.

At times during a dog show there has been two excited handlers who decided to show the judge how good their dogs were.  They got so intent on what they were doing, each trying to outdo the other, that the judge became annoyed.  He said they were insulting his intelligence – that he could and would find the dog of his liking without any further help from the handlers.  This could prove disastrous results for you if not taken into account during  a dog show.

Studying The Results Of Experienced Handlers courtesy Dog Articles.

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Pembroke Welsh Corgi – The Smallest of the Herding Dogs

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The Pembroke Welsh Corgi is a fascinating and robust pooch. Although only 10 to 12 inches high at the shoulder, this little breed packs a punch. They were originally designed to herd cattle, sheep and other livestock. Their shortness was key as they were able to dodge kicks from livestock, in particular avoiding a kick altogether by having the hooves swing just over their heads.

Their stout stature is accompanied by short yet thick legs and they are much longer than they are tall. This dog breed was first recorded in the 11th century and was simply referred to as a Corgi. In 1926, they were accepted by the AKC (American Kennel Club), but it wasn’t until 1936 that two distinct breeds were recognized. There are two Corgi dog breeds, the Cardigan Welsh Corgi and the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. The main difference between the two is that one has the presence of and one has the lack of a tail.

The Pembroke Welsh Corgi has a naturally bobbed tail. If a Pembroke is born with a short tail, it is said that the genetics of its predecessor (the Cardigan) have been exhibited. That dog then has its tail docked and is not used in the breeding process. Another characteristic of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is that it is not as thick boned as the Cardigan, but none the less sturdy and quick in stride. The thick legs are followed closely by a thick undercoat to protect them from the weather and has slightly longer guard hairs. Because of this thick coat of fur, they need to be brushed regularly, at least five solid minutes once a week, but more like 15 minutes. Bathing should be done only occasionally, maybe once every two or three months. Another obvious characteristic of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi (and the Cardigan) is its large ears.

They stand up and are designed to catch the sound of their owner as they whistled commands to them in the field. Their eyes are slightly oval in shape and these dog breeds have keen eyesight. It is because of their long backs that the Pembroke Welsh Corgi and Cardigan are prone to intervertebral disc disease. Another concern may be hip dysplasia as this dog is very active and loves to run, their hips are more prone to damage. Hip dysplasia is also due to its overall bone structure as well. However, good breeding helps to reduce these medical possibilities. Their health is good overall and these dog breeds live for 11 to 13 years of age. As far as their temperament goes, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is active, loving, devoted to its family and a wonderful companion. They can live outside, but crave the company of their family and are better suited to be indoors. Their size makes them compatible with apartment living. They do require daily exercise and mental stimulation, however. A nice long leash walk and some play time with a few toys can meet this requirement and also create a long lasting bond.

Pembroke Welsh Corgi – The Smallest of the Herding Dogs courtesy Dog Articles.

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Your Dog Is Talking To You – Are You Listening?

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Dogs actually have the ability to signal to us precisely how they are feeling at any given time. If we are attuned to their signs we will know what their emotional state is. Dogs can display various emotions including: happiness, sadness, boredom, excitement, and fear.

If you closely watch your dog you will notice that his eyes, ears, body, and tail are in an almost continuous, though subtle movement. This is his way of communicating his emotional feelings. Studies are confirming the fact that animals use a very inconspicuous and refined system of communication. The good news is that with a little effort we can learn to understand our domesticated dogs.

In studies conducted by Jane Goodall and Dr. Michael W. Fox, recognized authority on canine body language, confirmed that wild dogs of Africa and wolves communicated a wide range of attitudes to each other, including affection, dominance, submission, interest, disgust, joy, disappointment, and fear. These emotions were communicated using the slightest body movements.

Although our dogs have lost some sensitivity to the language that would be used if they were living in the wild, they still use much of this inherited form of communication. Learning to read your dog’s body language will require a keen eye and close observation over what is happening at the time that your dog is displaying any given movement.

There are some basic things you can look for but like everything else, not every dog follows the same pattern as the others. Here are a few typical guidelines to get you started. Dogs use their tails to signal that they are happy or afraid. If their tail is wagging they are happy. If it is tucked down they are showing fear and submission. When their tail is proudly held high they are feeling good about themselves. Ears are also very telling when it comes to signaling emotions. Dogs sometimes perk their ears in an adorable quizzical fashion as if to ask a question. They may also tilt their head to the side when puzzled. The ears may be held in a backward direction against the head when the dog is angry.

As you become increasingly skilled at reading your dog’s emotional language or identifying his moods, your bond with him will deepen and grow even stronger. Many professionals that have lots of experience in working with dogs have developed the ability to read canine language very well. This is true of dog behaviorists, dog trainers, veterinarians, groomers, breeders, and even life-long dog owners.

It seems that dogs are able to recognize and appreciate when you correctly read their emotional language. Perhaps this is why dogs seem to automatically like certain individuals. Maybe the dog immediately recognizes when a person understands him.

Your Dog Is Talking To You – Are You Listening courtesy Dog Articles.

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All About Dog Anal Glands

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If you own a dog you may have heard the term ‘anal glands’ and wondered what it is, and if it is a normal part of all dogs. The answer is yes; all dogs have anal glands. In most cases there are no problems associated with these structures, unless they become filled, and in which case, they become uncomfortable. In fact, infections and other problems can result from this situation.

Anal glands are small sac like structures that are located near the anus. There is one gland on each side of the anal region. The glands have openings that are located just inside the anus. Anal glands hold a liquid substance until the animal defecates, and at that time the liquid is normally secreted, or expressed from the glands, along with the feces.

Fear, nervousness, or even excitement can also result in the expression of this foul smelling, dark colored liquid. As a result it may be seen under the animal’s tail, or near the rectum, or even on the floor near the pet.

Over-filling and/or inadequate emptying of the anal glands is not uncommon in dogs. When the glands are full the pet will begin to feel a discomfort in the anal region and strive to relieve that distress. Dogs are sometimes seen scooting their behinds across the floor in an effort to relieve the symptoms. Other times they will bite or lick at the area surrounding the anus and under the tail. Additionally, some dogs will keep their tail tucked down and under, or between their legs when they feel discomfort related to their anal glands.

Fortunately, the liquid can be manually expressed from the anal glands. One method is external manual expression. This involves squeezing the area on either side of the anus to ‘milk’ or force the fluid out of the anal glands. The other method is internal manual expression which involves inserting a finger inside the rectum of the dog and using another finger on the outside, with the anal glands between the fingers. Execution of either method should result in visible excretion of the fluid exiting the anal glands openings. Groomers and veterinarians are experienced in this procedure.

Allowing the fluid to continue to build without emptying the sacs can eventually result in the fluid changing consistency, from a fluid liquid to a much thicker substance that is even more difficult to express. At this point it is best to seek professional assistance from a veterinarian. If left unattended the anal glands can become infected and other problems can develop.

Depending on the severity of the resulting problems the dog may need to have flushing treatments of the anal glands and treatments with antibiotics, which may involve sedation, as well as pain medication. If the anal glands become repeatedly filled and problems continue it is possible that surgical removal will be suggested. The removal can sometimes result in (temporary or permanent) fecal incontinence.

All About Dog Anal Glands courtesy Dog Articles.

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Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever

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The general appearance of the Labrador should be that of a strongly built and a very active dog. He should be fairly wide over the loins and strong and muscular in the hindquarters. The coat should be close, short, dense and free from feather.

The skull should be wide, giving brain room; there should be a slight stop, the brow should be slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The head should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks. The jaws should be long and powerful; the nose should be wide and the nostrils are well developed. Teeth should be strong and regular.

The ears should hang moderately close to the head, rather far back, should be set somewhat low and not be large and heavy. The eyes should be of a medium size, expressing great intelligence and good temper, and can be brown, yellow or black, but brown or black is preferred.

The neck should be medium length, powerful and not throaty. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The chest must be of good width and depth, the ribs are well sprung and the loins wide and strong, stifles are well turned, and the hindquarters are well developed and of great power.

The legs must be straight from the shoulder to ground, and the feet compact with toes well arched, and pads well developed; the hocks should be well bent, and the dog must neither be cow hocked nor be too wide behind; he must stand and move true all round on legs and feet. Legs should be of medium length, showing good bone and muscle, but not so short as to be out of balance with rest of body.

The tail is a distinctive feature of the breed; it should be very thick towards the base, gradually tapering towards the tip, of medium length, should be free from any feathering, and should be clothed thickly all round with the Labrador’s short, thick, dense coat, thus giving the peculiar “rounded” appearance which has been described as the “otter” tail. The tail may be carried gaily but should not curl over the back.

The coat is another very distinctive feature; it should be short, very dense and without wave, and should give a fairly hard feeling to the hand.

Movement should be free and effortless. The forelegs should be strong and true, and correctly placed. Watching a dog move towards one, there should be no signs of elbows being out in front, but neatly held to the body with legs not too close together, and moving straight forward without pacing or weaving. When viewing the dog from the rear, you should get the impression that the hind legs, which should be well muscled and not cow hocked, move as nearly parallel as possible, with hocks doing their full share of work and flexing well, thus giving the appearance of power and strength.

Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever courtesy Dog Articles.

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Helping The Mother Dog Give Birth

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Sometimes you may have to assist the mother while she is giving birth.  Puppies are usually delivered head first in a diving position while some are born tail and hind legs first.  If the mother is having a hard time with the delivery, you can help her by gently pulling out the exposed puppy as she restrains.  However, if only the legs are out, call the vet immediately for advice.  If the mother does not lick the newborn puppy, you will need to remove the membrane from his face and clear the fluid from his nose and mouth.  Rub the newborn puppy vigorously with a towel in order to stimulate his first breath.  Do not handle the newborn puppy more than what is necessary.

Helping a weak puppy after delivery

Once the puppy has been cleaned, check to make sure that he is breathing properly.  If he looks normal but appears weak or lifeless, gently but firmly massage him with a towel, particularly around the head and the chest.  A puppy that stays in the birth canal for a long period of time results in a lack of oxygen to the brain.

If he is still not breathing after you are finished rubbing him with a towel, suspend him by his hind legs for a few seconds to allow the fluids to drain from the air passages.  Gently shake him while keeping a secure grip on his hind legs.  This should stimulate him to start breathing.  Once the puppy is breathing, keep him warm and comfortable by wrapping him in a towel until the mother has finished giving birth.  When the whelping has finished, show the weak puppy to his mother and make sure that he finds a productive nipple.  Observe him for a few days to ensure that he is not bullied by stronger puppies in the litter.

The mother normally chews through the umbilical cord.  If she does not, you can tie off the cord using a thread about 2 inches from the puppy’s belly and then cut it on the opposite side of the knot, away from the puppy.  Be very careful when doing this and do not pull on the umbilical cord.

Sometimes the mother may reject the puppy if it is taken away.  In this case, bring the puppy to her and allow her to lick him and then place him where he can suckle.

Helping The Mother Dog Give Birth courtesy Dog Articles.

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How Do Dogs Get Tapeworms?

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Worms aren’t a very pleasant topic but they are something that you should know about if you have a dog.  You may hear about different kinds of worms and wonder how your dog can get them.  How does your dog get tapeworms, for instance?

Dogs get tapeworms from eating fleas.  Fleas ingest tapeworm eggs and when your dog eats the fleas he eats the tapeworm eggs, too.  They then happily hatch out inside your dog.  A single tapeworm can grow to be four to six inches long in your dog’s intestine.  The tapeworm’s head attaches to the intestine.  As it grows it is followed by many little linked segments.  These little segments look like rice.  They break off and your dog passes them when he uses the bathroom.  You can sometimes see them in his stool or they can catch on the fur around his rectum.  A single tapeworm may have 90 of these segments.  Each of these segments contains more eggs for the tapeworm.

When you take your dog to the vet (and this is one reason why you should take your dog for an annual check-up), your vet can identify these little white links as tapeworm segments.  Sometimes these links will show up in a fecal exam, but there is no guarantee that a tapeworm will conveniently break off when your dog is at the vet so your vet may not find the segments when he does the fecal exam.

Over-the-counter wormers for dogs do not work on tapeworms.  You will need a prescription wormer from your vet to kill the tapeworms.

A tapeworm can infect your dog for a year or more.  They rob your dog of the nutrients that pass through his digestive system.  Your dog may have abdominal discomfort, he may be nervous, and he may vomit.  If you notice these signs in your dog, even if you don’t see the rice-like segments of the tapeworm around your dog’s tail or in his stool, take your dog to the vet and tell him that you suspect your dog may have tapeworms.

Tapeworms can be passed to humans so it’s very important to kills these parasites as quickly as possible.  Beefing up your flea control will help prevent tapeworm infestations from getting started.  If your dog has had tapeworms you will also need to treat your yard and home.

If you have a puppy, most vets will offer worming when your puppy has his series of puppy shots.  Make sure that you get this worming for your puppy since it will take care of any tapeworms that your puppy may have when you first get him.

There are other worms and parasites that can bother your dog but most of them can be killed by over-the-counter wormers for dogs, with the exception of heartworms.  Make sure that you get your dog tested annually for worms with a fecal exam to find out if he has any worms or parasites.  Your vet can answer any questions you have about parasites and your dog.

How Do Dogs Get Tapeworms courtesy Dog Articles.

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