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What To Expect When Your Dog Is Expecting

Are you getting ready for your dog to have puppies? Having a litter of pups sounds like a lot of fun, but there is much work involved. Here are some tips on how to get your dog and you ready for birth.

The first thing to know is that your dog will be pregnant on average for 63 days. This is not very much time so make sure you are ready.

You will want to make sure that you are feeding your pregnant dog appropriately. Your dog will need to eat more than usual and you may want to transition to a growth type food or puppy food during the pregnancy. You should do this by decreasing the amount of regular food you give your dog each day while increasing the amount of new food. It’s best if you do this over the course of about a week to help prevent loose stool.

Check with your veterinarian to see what is appropriate for diet. Make sure to feed your dog a high quality diet. You do not need to supplement the diet with vitamins unless it is recommended by your veterinarian. Always follow their recommendations. Your dog may experience symptoms similar to human morning sickness around the third week of pregnancy. If this lasts longer than one week, take your dog to the veterinarian to see if there are any underlying problems.

You will want to continue regular walks with your dog during the pregnancy. It is important to get some exercise, but if you have a working dog or do sports with your dog, you will want to discontinue these until after the puppies are weaned. However, three weeks prior to delivery, you will want to isolate your pregnant dog from all other dogs. This must continue until at the very least, three weeks after the puppies are born. There are infectious diseases carried by unvaccinated dogs that may not be very harmful to adult dogs but can be fatal to puppies.

If your dog is due for vaccination during the pregnancy, hold off on this until after the puppies are weaned. Vaccination during pregnancy can be harmful to the fetuses. Ideally, you will want to have your dog vaccinated just prior to breeding.

When getting ready to deliver, make sure to provide a comfortable place for whelping and raising the puppies. It should be somewhere where your dog can come and go, but the puppies are confined to.

When it is time to deliver, your dog’s body temperature will drop slightly. You can monitor this with a rectal thermometer. Normal canine temperature is between 100-102 degrees. When it drops below 100 degrees, you can usually expect labor in 24 hours. When your dog starts to go into labor, she will become restless and may pant, shiver, or vomit. This is normal. Make sure to provide fresh water to her at all times. This stage of labor may last up to 12 hours. When she begins to deliver the pups, they will be covered with a thin membrane which must be cleared away. The mother should do this herself, but should she neglect to do this, you will need to clear it away or the pup will suffocate. You will need to tie the umbilical cords in a knot and cut them above the knot. Pups will come about one per hour with up to half an hour of straining in between deliveries. It is not unusual for your dog to take a break of a few hours during delivery.

You will need to call your veterinarian if your dog does not deliver within one day of her temperature drop, she is straining to deliver for more than an hour, takes more than a four hour break between pups, seems to be in great pain, or has been pregnant for more than 70 days. Some breeds require cesarean sections so make sure to discuss this with your doctor prior to delivery. If you feel that anything else unusual is occurring, contact your veterinarian immediately.

It is always important to discuss all of your concerns and what to expect with your veterinarian prior to delivery.

What To Expect When Your Dog Is Expecting courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts

Dogs are considered “man’s best friend” for a good reason – they are known to develop deep and meaningful bonds with their owners and remain loyal to them. Television shows, movies and books have all been devoted to the intensity of the bond between a human and their dog and this isn’t without good reason!

If you have a new puppy in your home, congrats! A dog can be your closest friend in the world and will never turn down your affections, will never stop listening when you need an ear and will be your friend for the rest of their life if you take the time to build a healthy relationship with them.

However, the dog in your home does not make the rules. You do. That being the case, you need to make sure your animal understands what is acceptable and what is not. Dogs don’t train themselves!

Be sure to make big decisions early such as what he will chew on and play with, where he will sleep and what is off limits to him (for example: Can he get on the furniture? Are any rooms in the home off limits?).

Housebreaking your dog as a young puppy will help ensure they respond successfully and quickly to the training and thus be a happy and positive member to the household, causing you (and him) as little stress as possible.

The crate training method is a perfectly humane and quick way to train your puppy not to go in the house.

Before we dive into that, some Do’s and Don’ts on housebreaking your new family member:

Do’s:

Be Consistent. Without your consistency, your puppy will only get confused as to what you are expecting it to do.

Do regulate your dog’s food and water intake during the day. Never withhold food or water if your animal needs it, but remember that the more your animal eats or drinks, the more it will need to go to the bathroom.

Do remember to stay close to your puppy. If you aren’t near him, he will have no way to get let out to use the restroom. If you have to be gone for long periods of time while you are training him, make sure that you keep the puppy in a limited area of your home where you are prepared to have accidents happen.

Do reward your doggy with praise whenever he does what you’ve asked or expected him to do. Your puppy wants to make you happy and he needs to learn what are the right things to do that generate that praise he is seeking.

Be realistic. As frustrating as house training can be, your new dog may not be completely housebroken until 6 months of age or more.

Don’ts:

Don’t allow your pup to use the restroom anywhere other than his designated area during the training period.

Don’t discipline your dog when he has an accident. While housebreaking a new puppy, accidents are inevitable and when they do happen it means you did not get him outside to use the restroom soon enough. Clean up the mess and move forward.

Don’t use your puppy’s crate as a way to punish them, the crate should not be associated with negativity. Also, don’t lock your doggy up in their crate for long periods of time.

The crate method and why it works:

Dogs are by nature picky about where they do their business. They will not use the restroom where they eat or sleep. If your puppy sleeps in their crate, they simply will not use the restroom in it.

To Begin With:

– Puppies urinate often. Anytime they drink, eat, run, chew, play or walk they will need to use the restroom within 15-30 minutes following depending on the size, age, temperament, and breed of your puppy.

– Document how often and when your puppy needs to do his business for a few days. Keeping an eye on his general schedule will make training easier.

– After you’ve determined your puppy’s natural schedule, plan your walks around it. Between the ages of 10 weeks to 6 months, your puppy should be taken out or walked 5 to 10 times daily. Between 6 months and 11 months this number will drop down to 4 to 6 times daily. After he is grown 3 to 4 times daily should be enough.

–  Especially on your first walk of the day (after your dog has spent the night in their crate), do not come home from your walk until your puppy has done their business. If, for whatever reason, you do need to return, return your puppy to his crate and let him back out every 15 minutes until they use the restroom.

The crate:

Your puppy’s crate is his special sanctuary away from any stresses during the day. It functions as his bedroom and his own personal spot that no one else uses.

Your puppy should associate his crate with only positive things. Be sure to keep his favorite toys, blankets and treats inside. While he is still adjusting to the crate, leave the crate door open until he has no anxiety about being inside it.

The better your puppy feels about his crate, the lower the chances of him using the restroom inside it.

Do not encourage bad behaviors by letting your puppy out of the crate for whining, scratching or barking.

Getting Started:

– Create a daily schedule of taking your puppy out and feeding him.

– At night time, put your puppy in his crate, but be sure to take him outside first thing in the morning and do not return from your walk until he has used the restroom.

– After you’ve taken your puppy out and he has eliminated, bring him indoors and allow him to play for about an hour. (Also remember to keep an eye on his whereabouts in the house until he is fully housebroken.)

– Feed your puppy.

– Using the information about your puppy’s natural schedule that you’ve already written down, take him outside within fifteen minutes of when you anticipate he will need to go. Do not return from outside until he has used the restroom.

– Come back inside and allow the puppy to play.

– Put your puppy back in his crate for naptime.

Repeat this schedule throughout your day.

This may seem like a ton of effort, and it is, but this is a method that is wildly effective. Your puppy will quickly be house trained and when your puppy is older, he will inform you when he needs to go out. During the training process, you will have confidence in your dog and know that accidents are much less likely to happen.

Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts courtesy Dog Articles.

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My Dog Is Marking In The House!

If you see a woman chasing a dog from room to room, threatening them with a mop, it’s possible you are watching a dog owner who has a male dog that’s been marking in the house.

It should be understood that marking behavior is not the same as ordinary peeing in the house, although the result may be the same.  Marking behavior, which may be no more than sprinkling everything in sight, is not a housetraining issue.  It is about territory, dominance and sexuality.  Sometimes it is about insecurity.  But even dogs that are thoroughly housetrained can mark in the house.

Marking is usually, but not always, an issue that involves male dogs.  Some females will mark in the house, but by far most dogs that exhibit marking behavior are male.

Dogs mark by peeing on furniture or other items in order to establish their territory.  They are “marking” something as theirs.  They are usually motivated to do so to show their status.  There may be other dogs in the household that they think should be reminded about their position.  There may be females around and they want to advertise their sexual availability.  Or, the male may be insecure in some way and marking makes him feel bigger and tougher.  He’s tossing his hat in the ring, so to speak.  He wants to be one of the guys.

As you probably know, dogs have incredible noses and they can gather a wealth of information from sniffing urine.  Your dog is leaving information about himself and his position when he marks something.

Not surprisingly, most owners don’t appreciate this practice in their homes.

Marking is far more prevalent with unneutered males since it seems to be linked to testosterone.  Neutering at any point in a dog’s life does seem to reduce or nearly eliminate the behavior (though it is not a guarantee).  So, you might suggest to your intact male that if he doesn’t want to lose something he values he should knock off the marking.  If that doesn’t work, there are some other ways to try to discourage marking behavior.

One of the best ways to stop the marking is to catch your dog in the act.  This usually requires very close supervision and immediate correction.  You may have to confine your dog to one small area of the house in order to watch him closely.  You may even need to put him on a retractable leash in the house.  However, this method is effective.

You can also make yourself a shaker bottle using an old soda bottle and fill it with pennies or something else that rattles.  Watch your dog and as soon as he starts to mark you give your command, “NO MARK!” and rattle the shaker at him.  The goal is to startle him into not marking.  Do this consistently for a couple of days and he should be on his way to breaking the habit.

You may need to confine your dog while you are away from home, at least while you are trying to break the marking habit.  You can crate your dog for a few hours while you are away from home in order to control the marking.  Make sure your dog goes outside to potty, as usual, and praise him when he pees outside.

Remember to thoroughly clean every area where your dog marks in the house.  These areas are special to him and you have to remove all trace of the urine so he won’t be tempted to mark there again.  A 50/50 solution of vinegar and water works well.

If none of these solutions works you may have to resign yourself to putting a belly band on your dog.  A belly band is a wrap which fits around your dog’s waist and over his penis.  You fit it inside with a sanitary napkin.  If your dog is tempted to mark and lift his leg then he pees into the band and not onto anything in the house.  It’s really a method of last resort.

My Dog Is Marking In The House courtesy Dog Articles.

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Grooming Your Golden Retriever

Grooming your Golden Retriever is a never ending process.  The entire process should be down once or twice a week, and will take you around a ½ an hour of time.  Brushing your dog while he is shedding will help to control shedding quite a bit.  While outside, if your Golden Retriever manages to get burs or other defects in his hair, you should instantly take a few moments of your time and get the burs or other matter out of his coat.

When you groom your pet, you should always start with a good brushing.  Brush his entire body, then once you have finished brushing you can switch to a comb to get out any loose hair that remains in the coat.  While you are getting out the hair, you can also inspect your pet for ticks, fleas, and other types of skin ailments.  If you wish, you can also check his ears and trim his nails as well.

Bathing your Golden is essential to grooming, and can be somewhat complicated.  Before you attempt to give him a bath, you should always brush him first, to get rid of tangles.  During shampooing, you should always use shampoos that are specifically for dogs, since human shampoo can dry a dog’s skin out.  You don’t need to bathe your dog often, once every other week is good enough.  If you properly maintain your Golden’s coat, you’ll find it’s much easier to clean.

To prevent matting, which is very common with Golden Retrievers, you should always make sure that you brush your pet on a daily basis.  Metal combs and brushes work extremely well, and will help you to get a great deal of the hair out.  Although some people choose to use scissors and cut the mats, you can easily injure your Golden if he happens to move or jerk.  Scissors aren’t recommended, as brushing and proper bathing will help to prevent matting of the hair better than anything else.

When you cut your dogs nails, you should trim them a great deal, all the while avoiding going down into the quick.  You should never let your Golden’s nails get too long, as long nails can easily take the shape of the dog’s foot, resulting in a splay.  Therefore, you should always check your Golden Retriever’s nails and trim them every few weeks.  If you trim them just right, you’ll have at least 2 weeks before they need to be trimmed again.  If you do happen to trim the nails past the quick, bleeding will occur.  To stop the bleeding, always keep some styptic powder on hand to make sure that you are prepared if you do make a mistake.

With other types of grooming, you should also make sure that you clean your Golden’s ears as well.  They can get ear infections quite easily, if you don’t clean their ears on a regular basis.  To get the best results and protect your pet from ear infections, you should clean his ears once a week using a quality cleansing solution.  This way, you can rest assured that your Golden has healthy ears.

Grooming is an essential aspect to the health of every Golden Retriever.  All it takes is a little bit of time from your day to groom your pet and keep him healthy.  If you don’t have the time to groom your Golden, you can always take him to a professional.  Whether you do it yourself or take your Golden to a pro – grooming is something that simply must be done.

Grooming Your Golden Retriever
courtesy Dog Articles.

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Basic Considerations When Choosing A New Puppy

Before actually adding a new puppy to your home you should consider what your expectations of dog ownership are. All dogs require love, food and shelter, but puppies need more commitment from their owners than adult dogs do. Puppies are more time demanding because they are essentially babies. They have to be taught how to behave appropriately and they go through various stages as they grow. Most puppies go through a chewing phase and at some points in growing up they are very energetic.

If there are children in the home even extra supervision will be required. This is to protect both the child and the puppy. Puppies love to play and their little teeth are very sharp. They can also easily scratch little ones with their claws during play.

Similarly, children are drawn to small animals. They are very likely to hold them and carry them around. Many puppies have been squeezed, dropped or stepped on and injured inadvertently by well intentioned children. Obviously you will have to be diligent in watching over the two when they’re together. Most breeders of small or toy breeds do not sale their puppies to homes with young children because of these risks. If you do have a child in your home insure that the puppy you add is one with a gentle disposition and loving personality.

Many people want a dog as a means of security or protection. They are looking for a sort of living alarm system, a dog that will bark when someone approaches the yard or the door. The good news is that almost any dog can fill this need. The fact is that even the bark of a toy poodle is usually effective in turning away an intruder.

Of course some people want to go a step farther with that concept and have a dog that presents the physical appearance of a watch dog. In this case people often choose larger breeds such as Doberman Pinchers or even Boxers. Most dogs are protective of their owners and their territory without having any specialized training. The sheer size and appearance of larger dogs is a deterrent to most would be intruders.
Dogs are naturally pack animals which makes them a social animal. They love their human family and want to be a part of it. Dogs make excellent compani
ons. Dogs should be included as a part of the family whenever possible. They truly need the interaction and love of their family.

Dogs should not spend their time all alone, living in the back yard. This is especially true of puppies. The younger the pup the more supervision and regular training he needs. Socialization is important for all dogs. In fact, it is the secret to a well behaved dog.

Before you add a new puppy to your home it is important to take the time to consider what type of dog will best suit your lifestyle. If you are the type of person that enjoys sports and the outdoors then an energetic dog may be perfect for you. If you spend a lot of time at the computer you may prefer a small lap dog. And if you live in the city you may want to consider a small dog that does not require a deal of space.

Basic Considerations When Choosing A New Puppy courtesy Dog Articles.

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All About Dog Anal Glands

If you own a dog you may have heard the term ‘anal glands’ and wondered what it is, and if it is a normal part of all dogs. The answer is yes; all dogs have anal glands. In most cases there are no problems associated with these structures, unless they become filled, and in which case, they become uncomfortable. In fact, infections and other problems can result from this situation.

Anal glands are small sac like structures that are located near the anus. There is one gland on each side of the anal region. The glands have openings that are located just inside the anus. Anal glands hold a liquid substance until the animal defecates, and at that time the liquid is normally secreted, or expressed from the glands, along with the feces.

Fear, nervousness, or even excitement can also result in the expression of this foul smelling, dark colored liquid. As a result it may be seen under the animal’s tail, or near the rectum, or even on the floor near the pet.

Over-filling and/or inadequate emptying of the anal glands is not uncommon in dogs. When the glands are full the pet will begin to feel a discomfort in the anal region and strive to relieve that distress. Dogs are sometimes seen scooting their behinds across the floor in an effort to relieve the symptoms. Other times they will bite or lick at the area surrounding the anus and under the tail. Additionally, some dogs will keep their tail tucked down and under, or between their legs when they feel discomfort related to their anal glands.

Fortunately, the liquid can be manually expressed from the anal glands. One method is external manual expression. This involves squeezing the area on either side of the anus to ‘milk’ or force the fluid out of the anal glands. The other method is internal manual expression which involves inserting a finger inside the rectum of the dog and using another finger on the outside, with the anal glands between the fingers. Execution of either method should result in visible excretion of the fluid exiting the anal glands openings. Groomers and veterinarians are experienced in this procedure.

Allowing the fluid to continue to build without emptying the sacs can eventually result in the fluid changing consistency, from a fluid liquid to a much thicker substance that is even more difficult to express. At this point it is best to seek professional assistance from a veterinarian. If left unattended the anal glands can become infected and other problems can develop.

Depending on the severity of the resulting problems the dog may need to have flushing treatments of the anal glands and treatments with antibiotics, which may involve sedation, as well as pain medication. If the anal glands become repeatedly filled and problems continue it is possible that surgical removal will be suggested. The removal can sometimes result in (temporary or permanent) fecal incontinence.

All About Dog Anal Glands courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps

Ask any dog owner what is the most important thing that their new dog learns and 9 out of 10 will say that they want their dog to be housetrained. The problem is that there are more dogs that are not housebroken than are. The reason for that is because many dog owners are not patient enough to train their dogs, so they give up.

Dogs actually do want to please their owners. They are pack animals and because you are the one that provides food and shelter you are the alpha dog; you are the pack leader. But you have to think like a dog and work with them. Housebreaking can be done in four simple steps as follows:

1) Restrict the area that your dog is allowed to freely roam in. This should be no more than the area that you can keep watch over. By limiting the area to what you can supervise you will be able to closely monitor your dog.

2) Be diligent about taking your dog out as you should. Puppies will need to go out more often than older dogs. Always be ready to immediately take the pet outdoors when he wakes up. This is a time that you count on that he will look for a spot to ‘go’. Dogs also ‘go’ after eating, drinking, and exercise. Once again, older dogs can wait much longer than puppies.

3) When you take the dog out be sure to say whatever word or phrase you want him to associate with the deed. Just keep in mind that you may be saying this in public at some point in time so make it something that is not embarrassing. Taking your dog to the same place each time helps him to associate the spot with the deed. Do not play with your dog during these trips outdoors. He needs to understand that the trip has a purpose. When he finishes you should lavish praise on him, let him know he did good.

4) Repeat until your dog gets the idea and begins signaling to you that he needs to go out. If your dog makes a mess indoors it means that you were not monitoring as closely as you should have been. Never punish your dog for accidents. Simply continue with the training and expect that there will be a few accidents along the way. Some dogs continue to have occasional accidents but others will do anything not to ‘go’ indoors.

Many small breed owners find that the use of puppy pads works for their dogs. Rather than taking their little dog out the dog simply messes on the pad and it is disposed of. This also works for dogs that are left alone for long periods of time.

Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps courtesy Dog Articles.

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Caring For Your Geriatric Dog

Growing older is something that happens to all of us, and that includes our dogs.  It may seem like it was just yesterday that you brought home a bouncing ball of fur who was trying to chew your shoes but today that puppy is a senior dog.  It’s important to provide some extra love and care for your older dog to make him comfortable and happy.

Older dogs can start to show signs of age as early as six or seven years old.  When you visit the vet you should ask about having a senior health check-up for your dog.  Your vet can do a blood panel and run some other tests to check your dog’s kidney function and make sure he’s in good health for his age.  You should have an annual senior check-up for your older dog past the age of seven.  Be sure that your vet also checks out any lumps or bumps on your older dog.  As dogs get older they can be more prone to tumors.  These tumors may be benign, but your vet may want to do a small biopsy just to make sure.  It’s always best to catch potential problems early.

As your dog gets older some of his senses will probably start to dull a bit.  His hearing may not be as sharp as it once way.  His eyesight may dim a little.  Even senses of taste and smell won’t be as good as they used to be.  These changes mean that your dog may need a little extra help.

Many older dogs begin having problems negotiating steps and stairs.  This can be due to arthritis but it’s also possible that it’s because your dog doesn’t see as well as he once did.  If your dog is having problems with stairs try walking down with him.  He may be able to do fine if you are there to guide him.  He may also have problems seeing at night which can make him reluctant to go outside to use the bathroom at night.  Try walking outside with him in the evenings and see if this improves things.

If your dog can’t smell and taste things as well as he once did he may not be as interested in his food anymore.  Go ahead and doctor up his food a little to make it smell and taste more appealing to him.  If you feed kibble then you may need to add canned food to make it smell and taste better to your dog.  Add some home cooked food to his meals to get him more interested in eating.

If your dog refuses to eat don’t assume that he has lost his appetite.  Many older dogs have dental problems that keep them from eating no matter how hungry they are.  Check your dog’s breath.  If it’s very bad then he may have some serious tooth decay or a tooth that needs to be removed.  Look at his teeth.  Does he have any brown or green-looking teeth?  Take your dog to the vet and have him or her do a dental check to see if dental problems are keeping your dog from eating.  Your dog may need to have a bad tooth pulled or some other problem fixed.

Many older dogs have some problems with arthritis.  If your dog has severe problems you should check with your vet to see if your dog needs some pain medication.  You can also look for supplements that have helped many dogs, such as glucosamine-chondroitin and MSM.  There are also products that contain shark cartilage and other ingredients said to help arthritis that may benefit your dog.

Older dogs can also benefit from sleeping on good bed.  Orthopedic dog beds can make your dog feel better.  Look for beds that have an egg-crate type mattress or which distribute the dog’s weight evenly across the whole mattress.  This makes it much easier for your dog to get up without any pain.  A heated bed will also help your dog.

There are many things you can do to help your geriatric dog feel better and live a more comfortable life.  If he seems to be having difficulties you should always check with your vet.  Otherwise, do what it takes to make him comfortable and happy.

Caring For Your Geriatric Dog courtesy Dog Articles.

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For Dog Owners

(From a dog’s point of view) You know you need a new mindset when your dog would say: I am a small breed dog that should weigh about 15 lbs but I weigh 40. My owner jokes about how she is guilty of feeding me table scraps (I am four now, but I may not see seven or eight because of this. I like to eat and it’s my owners’ job to maintain my weight because I don’t know how) I am a medium size breed that should weigh around 60 lbs but I weigh 110 lbs. The vet, told my owner to put me on a diet, so he/my owner cut back to 6 cups per day (that means I was getting way, way too much before because 6 cups is way too much for me now and I will probably not live long because I don’t know how to control my own weight, this makes me sad)

My owner doesn’t want me to see, smell, look at, greet or play with any other dog (since I am by nature a pack animal, he can expect me to have issues including possible aggression and fearfulness. I don’t think he realizes that I am just like a human child that needs to play and have fun and make friends with other dogs just like a human child does) I am a large breed, long haired dog and my owner hasn’t brushed or bathed me in 9 months and she wants my groomer to bathe, brush and get all the mats out without clipping me. (which isn’t possible without a haircut and hurts me and makes me really anxious) I am a small breed dog and I have gotten severely matted because my owner doesn’t brush me.

She has this silly notion that a hairbrush is a stress on me, so she tried “hacking” and “chopping” at the mats herself then decided to take me to the groomer but didn’t want me to be bathed or brushed, just clipped. (It hurts me to cut my hair when it’s this matted and it can’t be done without brushing what can be brushed out first. Lack of regular care causes me way more stress when I am dumped on a groomer for care and have to endure tugging and pulling at mats, than if my coat was maintained to begin with. Hacking and chopping what she can’t see, can cause cuts she can’t see)

My owner lets my toenails get so long that they curl around and dig into the pads of my paws, then takes me to the groomer. (this would be to him, like walking around in shoes that have nails driven into them stabbing into his feet. My toes will become splayed and I will probably develop joint pain, not to mention that I may have hoof rot, which can get very stinky and painful.) When I jump up on counters or people, my owner says “look what I taught my dog” (I’m behaving badly and I should not be encouraged) When I bark and growl at people and other dogs and my owner says “Good boy!, you go get em” (If I am allowed to behave like this, he may end up getting rid of me to another owner who may give me up again and I might get euthanized in a shelter because I wasn’t trained to behave to begin with.)

I bite people and when my owner is told about it, she says “Oh yeah, he gets a wild hair every now and then and decides to turn” (I am being very naughty and I should not be allowed to act like this. I’m afraid if she doesn’t get me trained to behave, I might end up in a shelter or get euthanized for my bad behavior) My owner doesn’t want to have me spayed or neutered because he thinks I will become fat, lazy or that it will take away what I should have. (What he doesn’t realize is that I will want to mark and mount the girls and other dogs and I might become a fighter and a dangerous dog. The girl dogs out there like me will probably have puppies that no one will have a home for and they will end up in shelters or get euthanized. This makes me so sad)

My owner wants my caregiver while she is on vacation to feed me human treats for my snack but they are unhealthy and one is actually poisonous to me. (If you want to feed me human foods, please make sure that they are safe for me because I want to live a long life with you, not die of poisoning that you didn’t know about.

For Dog Owners courtesy Dog Articles.

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Extremely Light Shedding Dogs

Every dog sheds some just like people lose a little hair. But some dogs shed  much more than others, while the ones discussed here shed a lot less. A lightly shedding dog is better for those people that want a house dog without as much cleanup of the dog’s fur required. It is also a plus for less grooming of your pet.

Those that want a dog that shed’s less have a large variety of breeds to choose from including: the Irish Water Spaniel, Puli, Yorkshire Terrier, Toy Poodle, Bolognese, and the Doodleman Pincher. This list is a sampling of breeds that shed less and isn’t all inclusive of them.

The so called non-shedding breds make the best pets for people with allergies. Dander and dead skin, which flakes off are allergens. The “don’t shed breds” don’t make as much allergy inducing material as other dogs.

The length of the dog’s coat isn’t as important in determining if he is a big shedder, as how many layers there are to his coat. In other words, pick a dog with one layer to his coat, not two layers. This rule applies whether the dog is short haired, wire haired or long haired.

People with allergies that are looking for a non-shedding dog, still need to be around the dog some to see if they will have an allergic reaction to the dog. Person A’s allergies can be triggered by one bred, while person B’s allergies aren’t agitated. So visit with the pooch before rushing home with the lovely pet.

Obviously, the non-shedding breeds are the ones to choose from, if you want to pick a dog for an allergic child. This should be on the okay of the child’s allergist. But if at all possible it is a wonderful part of childhood to have a dog. as a friend. It is important as with the adult allergy sufferer to make sure the dog won’t cause an allergic reaction.

Another consideration in picking a non-shedding dog is how well does this breed get along with children? That is for those that have children. The Maltese is a good choice because it is a friendly little dog that likes to play. The Labradorean is a dog that is family oriented that enjoys running and playing. It is a large dog. The Irish Water Spaniel is a medium dog in size. It has a good deposition for children and is a gentle dog. It is an intelligent animal and a beautiful dog. A beagle is a good choice for a child’s pet, which is non-shedding, friendly, and loving.

Those are just some of the non-shedding dogs that are also perfect to be around children. Others include the Golden Doodle, Bichon Frise, and the Bouvier des Flandres.

If a non-shedding dog is your choice, you won’t be without a variety to choose from in bred, size, and personality. Some are particularly good with children. One of these wonderful dogs is waiting for you to give it a good home.

Extremely Light Shedding Dogs courtesy Dog Articles.

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