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Socialize Your Dog for Life!

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We tend to forget these days that dogs are pack animals.  Many of us may have just one dog, or even two.  But we don’t see them as they were in nature.  Left to their own devices, dogs join up into a pack, often of related animals.  Like their wolf cousins and ancestors, dogs have a hierarchical structure to their packs, with leaders, assistants, subordinates and followers.  In nature dogs would learn everything they need to know, including dog manners, from their mother and other pack mates.

To live in our world of cars, buildings and cell phones, we have taken dogs almost completely out of their natural world.  In many places they exist without even having fields and forests anymore to share with their humans as they did only 100-200 years ago.  The only way they can exist in our world is if we teach them the skills they need to understand it and to thrive in it.  This means we have to socialize them to the human world and to the people in it.

Socialization means much more than learning a few commands.  Socialization is learning, from birth, to accept humans.  Good breeders begin socializing puppies from the day of their birth, picking them up and holding them, stroking them and talking to them, getting them used to sights and sounds in the house.  This should continue for the first seven weeks of life, with puppies being introduced to new things each week.

From the age of 8 weeks to 12 weeks, the time when many people get their new puppy, puppies are going through a fear imprinting stage.  This means that it is very easy at this time for anything that frightens the puppy to be remembered for the rest of their life.  New owners should take special care during this time to bolster their puppy’s confidence.  Do let puppies see new things and introduce them to new places and people.  Give them time to see that there is nothing to be afraid of.  Give plenty of praise when the puppy is brave and curious about things.  Try not to encourage your puppy to be fearful at this time or reward fearful behavior.  If a loud noise or something frightens your puppy, instead of cuddling the puppy take him to see what it is and show him that it’s okay.  Dance, laugh, be positive instead of petting the puppy for being fearful.  This is the difference between a fearful adult dog and a confident one later in life.

Introduce your puppy to many different people during this time to help him learn that he has nothing to fear from strangers and that he can meet them and be friendly.  Take him for short rides in the car.  Introduce many strange things at this time, such as umbrellas and the vacuum cleaner if he has not already encountered them.  Let him see normal things in unexpected places in the house.  Make sure he gets used to being groomed and bathed during this time.  And, of course, make sure he learns some leash training.  This is helpful since he will be going to the vet for his shots during this time.  Makes these pleasant experiences for him (especially bathing) and your future experiences will be much better.

Exercise basic common sense, of course.  Don’t allow your puppy to put himself in any danger while encouraging him to be confident.  Don’t allow him to wander where other animals have left droppings.  Remember that your puppy is not fully vaccinated yet so limit his socialization time with any unknown pets.  Don’t make your puppy do anything that is frightening for him.  Puppies at this age will remember things forever.  You want to encourage confidence, not ask them to do more than they can cope with.  And, remember that your puppy is just a baby at this time.  He needs lots of sleep and several small meals during the day.  You should only have a couple of socialization sessions per day along with things that occur on their own.

The socialization period continues until dogs are about 20 weeks old.  By that time their basic personality is in place, though socialization can continue for months.  You’ll begin to see your puppy making his own decisions about what he wants to do, what he likes and doesn’t like, what frightens him and what he’s confident about.

Early socialization is an extremely important time in the life of every dog.  You can help your dog adapt to living with humans by working with him during this time and make your future life together a very happy one.

Socialize Your Dog for Life courtesy Dog Articles.

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Five Corgi Training Commands to Master

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Corgis are usually easy dogs to train, having a natural ability to understand what is wanted and being anxious to please. One kind of behavior problem, however, is nipping. Corgis were bred as working dogs, and in some regions of the world they are used to herd cattle. They nip at the cows’ heels to get them to go where they are wanted. Thus, corgis like to nip, especially moving objects, such as your heels. If your puppy is less than ten weeks old, he or she cannot understand what you don’t like, so wait until the pup is at least ten weeks old to start your Corgi Training. Here are five practical methods:

1. In a wild dog pack the leader will hold the puppy’s neck or muzzle and keep it still for a few seconds to give it the idea that nipping is unacceptable. If you do the same, the dog will understand that you are the pack leader and will not tolerate nipping. As you hold the muzzle or neck, use a command such as, “No nip,” and use it consistently.

2. Another method is to hold the skin at the back of the neck and lift the puppy so that its front paws are off the ground for a few seconds. This, too, shows that you are in command. Again, say, “No nip, “ No bite,” or some other words consistently during dog training.

3. If you prefer, you can hold the puppy down, using two hands to hold it at the shoulders and lower back. Hold the pup until it stops wiggling, again saying a command that it will learn to recognize.

4. A bottle or glass of water, or a squirt gun can also be used. When the puppy nips, squirt it in the face or pour water over its head. If your puppy seems think this is a fun game, then abandon this method.

5. Distraction is another method you can use. Get a soft chew toy or rope for the puppy to chew, and substitute this object every time the puppy tries to nip your heels.

If the above methods do not work for you, then take your pup to a veterinarian or trainer before he or she gets any older. It is best to nip bad behavior in the bud as soon as possible.

Five Corgi Training Commands to Master courtesy Dog Articles.

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For Dog Owners

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(From a dog’s point of view) You know you need a new mindset when your dog would say: I am a small breed dog that should weigh about 15 lbs but I weigh 40. My owner jokes about how she is guilty of feeding me table scraps (I am four now, but I may not see seven or eight because of this. I like to eat and it’s my owners’ job to maintain my weight because I don’t know how) I am a medium size breed that should weigh around 60 lbs but I weigh 110 lbs. The vet, told my owner to put me on a diet, so he/my owner cut back to 6 cups per day (that means I was getting way, way too much before because 6 cups is way too much for me now and I will probably not live long because I don’t know how to control my own weight, this makes me sad)

My owner doesn’t want me to see, smell, look at, greet or play with any other dog (since I am by nature a pack animal, he can expect me to have issues including possible aggression and fearfulness. I don’t think he realizes that I am just like a human child that needs to play and have fun and make friends with other dogs just like a human child does) I am a large breed, long haired dog and my owner hasn’t brushed or bathed me in 9 months and she wants my groomer to bathe, brush and get all the mats out without clipping me. (which isn’t possible without a haircut and hurts me and makes me really anxious) I am a small breed dog and I have gotten severely matted because my owner doesn’t brush me.

She has this silly notion that a hairbrush is a stress on me, so she tried “hacking” and “chopping” at the mats herself then decided to take me to the groomer but didn’t want me to be bathed or brushed, just clipped. (It hurts me to cut my hair when it’s this matted and it can’t be done without brushing what can be brushed out first. Lack of regular care causes me way more stress when I am dumped on a groomer for care and have to endure tugging and pulling at mats, than if my coat was maintained to begin with. Hacking and chopping what she can’t see, can cause cuts she can’t see)

My owner lets my toenails get so long that they curl around and dig into the pads of my paws, then takes me to the groomer. (this would be to him, like walking around in shoes that have nails driven into them stabbing into his feet. My toes will become splayed and I will probably develop joint pain, not to mention that I may have hoof rot, which can get very stinky and painful.) When I jump up on counters or people, my owner says “look what I taught my dog” (I’m behaving badly and I should not be encouraged) When I bark and growl at people and other dogs and my owner says “Good boy!, you go get em” (If I am allowed to behave like this, he may end up getting rid of me to another owner who may give me up again and I might get euthanized in a shelter because I wasn’t trained to behave to begin with.)

I bite people and when my owner is told about it, she says “Oh yeah, he gets a wild hair every now and then and decides to turn” (I am being very naughty and I should not be allowed to act like this. I’m afraid if she doesn’t get me trained to behave, I might end up in a shelter or get euthanized for my bad behavior) My owner doesn’t want to have me spayed or neutered because he thinks I will become fat, lazy or that it will take away what I should have. (What he doesn’t realize is that I will want to mark and mount the girls and other dogs and I might become a fighter and a dangerous dog. The girl dogs out there like me will probably have puppies that no one will have a home for and they will end up in shelters or get euthanized. This makes me so sad)

My owner wants my caregiver while she is on vacation to feed me human treats for my snack but they are unhealthy and one is actually poisonous to me. (If you want to feed me human foods, please make sure that they are safe for me because I want to live a long life with you, not die of poisoning that you didn’t know about.

For Dog Owners courtesy Dog Articles.

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Beagle Training Guide For New Owners

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For anyone who has possibly had a Beagle you know that they are quite the uncooperative canine. If you’re a new Beagle master, you ought to be aware that Beagles are little more persistent when compared with many other canines. Therefore you should keep that at heart when you begin your own Beagle dog training. In order to train a new beagle the right way you’ll need to possess a single very important characteristic: you would need plenty of patience within your beagle training methods.

Remember that the Beagle breed of canine was developed as a mix type involving several other kinds of hunting dogs in Britain. Based on files, the beagle has been developed for just one distinct reason – to hunt. Getting bred for hundreds of years as hunting dogs is just what provides the Beagle his or her stubbornness. Hunting dogs have a more powerful sense of smell then many other dogs which means that they will be fascinated by each and every brand new scent which comes to his or her nose. This could cause you to get overwhelmed with all your beagle obedience training. Any time schooling any Beagle you must show her or him the essential commands foremost. These fundamental commands are Sit, Stay, Heel, & Lay Down. Just about all dogs, not just beagles require training within their daily life.

Dogs are pack animals, and they will certainly accompany you exactly where you go, therefore it would certainly convenience you overall to teach your current Beagle these simple instructions. Beagles in most cases answer very effectively to food rewards. You should try a loved toy as being a incentive when doing your beagle training. One beneficial tip I would give to virtually any Beagle dog owner is usually to direct their beagle training toward managing ones dogs begging. As talked about prior, Beagles make use of a solid sense of smell, meaning they’re going to always be exactly where your meals are. Any time beagles are around foods they’ll perform a number of duties as to attempt to acquire your attention, along with the food not surprisingly.

They’ll weep and whine at you, leap, stand on their own hind legs, as well as just about whatever else to have itself just a little treat. Plus let us not overlook your Beagle offering you those huge puppy dog eyes! Other sorts of beagle training advice I would like to give all owners is always that, beagles are extremely energetic pets. They love to run all over along with play and should you not discipline your own beagle properly at the start, you are usually in for a difficult time when they get older seeing that your own beagle will be set in his or her methods once and for all.

Establishing yourself along with other members of the household as pack leaders ought to be a critical part of your own beagle training from the launch. When your Beagle correctly follows your instructions reward him for it, and also get it done everyday. Beagles find superb pleasure in having the ability to satisfy their own masters. Beagle training is usually extremely rewarding, but also extremely irritating at the same time. Beagles spanning various ages require stability, instruction, behavior training and perform and act the way you want them to.

Beagle Training Guide For New Owners courtesy of Dog Articles.

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