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Nasal Cancer in Dogs

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Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Dog House Flag

In today’s lifestyle, everyone loves to have a pet animal like a dog or a cat, etc. Animals, like humans, are also prone to so many life-threatening diseases like cancer and many others. Nasal cancer is also one of the illnesses among dogs which are also known as Adenocarcinoma. If diagnosed early, it can be easily treated.

“We see more cancer in animals, and some of that probably is related to better care and animals living longer,” said Nicole Northrup, DVM, Dipl. ACVIM, an oncologist and associate professor at the University Of Georgia College Of Veterinary Medicine.

The cancer is malignant which is higher or aggressively metastasis to the local area and can also get transferred to the lungs, lymph nodes and the skull cavity. Nasal cancer is the most commonly found in dogs of urban localization, old dogs and dogs having long snouts.

Chondrosarcoma (CSA) is the most common nasal cancer in dogs according to research, accounting for ten percent of all primary bone tumors. It is malignant, invasive and fast spreading cancer in dogs.

Some types of breeds affected by this cancer are:

–    German Short-haired Pointers

–    German Shepherds

–    Keeshonds

–    Basset Hounds

–    Collies

–    Old English Sheepdogs

–    Shetland Sheepdogs

–    Airedale Terriers

Causes:

Scientists are working to find the exact reason for this disease, but the exact cause is still unknown. The most common cause of nasal cancer is pollution. In urban areas, many sources are leading to infection like combustion of fuels like kerosene and coal, and its byproducts and smoking. Although other causes can be treated which are risky or cancer-causing? Other reasons may include a mutation in genes, chromosomes.

Males are more prone than females, and old dogs are more likely to be affected by this disease. According to a study, it is also believed that urban dogs are more at risk than rural dogs.

Symptoms:

Symptoms of nasal cancer include:

  • The nasal discharge which may contain blood (epistaxis) or pus (mucopurulent) Shortening of breath (dyspnea).
  • Deformation of face and inflammation of the nose, Excessive sneezing, rubbing of the nose, weight loss, vision loss, and vomiting.
  • Bulgy eyes, behavioral changes, partial loss of movement (paresis), appetite loss and mental capacity loss (obtundation).
  • Seizers, Bad breath (halitosis)

Diagnosis:

The veterinary doctors take samples from lymph nodes to detect the cancerous cells or tissues.

The diagnostic methods used to detect nasal cancer are CT scan, which is the ideal method to locate the extent of the tumor, tissue biopsy used to find the location identified, imaging, standard X-Rays, rhinoscopy, blood culture, computed tomography etc.

Treatment:

The initial step in the procedure is pain management which is done by piroxicam an anti-inflammatory and non-steroidal drug. Chemotherapy is used to treat cancer in early stages or for sensitive areas like eyes and brain and also to prolong life and to relieve pain. One other option used to treat dogs tumor is radiation therapy. It is the most commonly used technique in treatment.

According to the tumor type, different doses of radiations are delivered.

Radiation and Chemotherapy: These are not the best options but radiation is still considered a good alternative. Depending on your type you can find following radiation methods:

1.)    Stereotactic radiosurgery:  It is a one-time treatment which causes less damage to tissues surrounding the tumor.

2.)    Stereotactic radiation therapy:  It delivers up to three small doses so that no harm is done to the surrounding tissue.

There may be side effects of radiation therapies such as inflammation, running nose, skin shedding, atrophy, seizers, optic nerve degeneration, fibrosis, bone collapse, etc.

Sometimes surgery called rhinotomy, or an incision into the nose to remove the tumor is attempted, this is not a successful method, but it can minimize the chances of infection.

Final Thoughts: 

Treating this disease is very hard, and dogs with this condition usually die within 2-7 months of diagnosis.

An affected dog can live to 8-20 months after radiation therapy. The most important part during treatment is to make your dog comfortable. New techniques and treatment methods need to be developed to improve the response and overall survival further.

 

 

 

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10 Things You Should Know About Your New Puppy

Just about everybody loves a puppy.  What’s not to love?  Okay, maybe there are a few things — like accidents in the house, chewing your things, nipping…

Here are a few things that you should know about your new puppy:

1.  When you bring your new puppy home he doesn’t know very much.  He’s spent most of the first weeks of his life living with his mother and siblings, who are dogs.  That means he knows some basic dog things, like how to whimper and bark to get attention.  He knows how to poop on papers.  His breeder may have taught him a few things but there wasn’t time to teach him very much.  Your puppy is pretty much a blank slate.  It’s up to you to teach him everything he needs to know.

2.  Your puppy is a little animal, not a small person in a furry suit.  He has animal instincts and will always react as an animal when he doesn’t know what to do.  That means that your puppy can bite and scratch and hurt somebody if he’s not supervised and trained.  He needs training while he’s young so that he doesn’t grow up to be a badly-behaved dog.

3.  Puppies need socialization.  Socialization is the process of introducing your puppy to the big, wide world and everything in it.  Your puppy needs to go places, see new things and meet people.  He should learn that new things and new people are good.  Socialization teaches a puppy to be confident and helps him later in life.  Puppies that are well-socialized tend not to develop behavior problems later on.

4.  You should begin training your puppy early.  You can train a dog throughout his life but it’s always easier and advisable to start training a puppy when he’s young.  Teach your puppy good manners and some basic obedience skills like Sit and Come.  You can take him to Puppy Preschool or Puppy Kindergarten classes where he can learn some simple obedience and enjoy some socialization at the same time.

5.  Your puppy will most likely chew on things so you should try to “puppy proof” your house as much as possible.  Put away your shoes and other things that he can reach.  When your puppy chews on things take them away.  If you catch your puppy in the act of chewing on something he’s not supposed to chew on, you can correct him (no physical punishments).  Otherwise, if you don’t catch him, you should let it go.  There is no point in correcting a puppy or dog for something that has already happened. Your puppy or dog won’t know why they’re being corrected.

6.  Puppies may nip, bite too hard when playing or simply get too raucous.  When they do, you should stop playing with them and ignore them.  If they continue, you should call a time-out.  Time-outs work with puppies just as they do with children.  If your puppy nips you, you should yelp and let him know it hurts.  If he even touches his teeth to your skin, yelp and don’t play with him.  If you stop playing with him whenever he tries to nip he will stop nipping.

7.  If you have children teach them that they can’t mistreat a puppy.  Tell them not to stare at a puppy or otherwise make the puppy uncomfortable.  They puppy may lunge at them.  And, if they run away screaming from a puppy, the puppy will chase them.  Not all kids are happy about that fact.  Children under six should be supervised when they play with puppies.

8.  Puppies may whine and bark and whimper for attention.  Sometimes you will have to ignore them, especially if you want to get any sleep.

9.  Do make sure that your puppy gets all of his vaccinations on schedule.  See that he takes heartworm preventive and flea medication if he needs it in your area.  Your puppy’s health and well-being depend on proper veterinary care.  You should also make sure that you are feeding him a good dog food with meat protein sources.

10.  Puppies are adorable and they will make you do whatever they want.

Those are a few things you should know about puppies.  Have fun with your puppy and may he (or she) grow up to be a wonderful dog.

10 Things You Should Know About Your New Puppy courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts

Dogs are considered “man’s best friend” for a good reason – they are known to develop deep and meaningful bonds with their owners and remain loyal to them. Television shows, movies and books have all been devoted to the intensity of the bond between a human and their dog and this isn’t without good reason!

If you have a new puppy in your home, congrats! A dog can be your closest friend in the world and will never turn down your affections, will never stop listening when you need an ear and will be your friend for the rest of their life if you take the time to build a healthy relationship with them.

However, the dog in your home does not make the rules. You do. That being the case, you need to make sure your animal understands what is acceptable and what is not. Dogs don’t train themselves!

Be sure to make big decisions early such as what he will chew on and play with, where he will sleep and what is off limits to him (for example: Can he get on the furniture? Are any rooms in the home off limits?).

Housebreaking your dog as a young puppy will help ensure they respond successfully and quickly to the training and thus be a happy and positive member to the household, causing you (and him) as little stress as possible.

The crate training method is a perfectly humane and quick way to train your puppy not to go in the house.

Before we dive into that, some Do’s and Don’ts on housebreaking your new family member:

Do’s:

Be Consistent. Without your consistency, your puppy will only get confused as to what you are expecting it to do.

Do regulate your dog’s food and water intake during the day. Never withhold food or water if your animal needs it, but remember that the more your animal eats or drinks, the more it will need to go to the bathroom.

Do remember to stay close to your puppy. If you aren’t near him, he will have no way to get let out to use the restroom. If you have to be gone for long periods of time while you are training him, make sure that you keep the puppy in a limited area of your home where you are prepared to have accidents happen.

Do reward your doggy with praise whenever he does what you’ve asked or expected him to do. Your puppy wants to make you happy and he needs to learn what are the right things to do that generate that praise he is seeking.

Be realistic. As frustrating as house training can be, your new dog may not be completely housebroken until 6 months of age or more.

Don’ts:

Don’t allow your pup to use the restroom anywhere other than his designated area during the training period.

Don’t discipline your dog when he has an accident. While housebreaking a new puppy, accidents are inevitable and when they do happen it means you did not get him outside to use the restroom soon enough. Clean up the mess and move forward.

Don’t use your puppy’s crate as a way to punish them, the crate should not be associated with negativity. Also, don’t lock your doggy up in their crate for long periods of time.

The crate method and why it works:

Dogs are by nature picky about where they do their business. They will not use the restroom where they eat or sleep. If your puppy sleeps in their crate, they simply will not use the restroom in it.

To Begin With:

– Puppies urinate often. Anytime they drink, eat, run, chew, play or walk they will need to use the restroom within 15-30 minutes following depending on the size, age, temperament, and breed of your puppy.

– Document how often and when your puppy needs to do his business for a few days. Keeping an eye on his general schedule will make training easier.

– After you’ve determined your puppy’s natural schedule, plan your walks around it. Between the ages of 10 weeks to 6 months, your puppy should be taken out or walked 5 to 10 times daily. Between 6 months and 11 months this number will drop down to 4 to 6 times daily. After he is grown 3 to 4 times daily should be enough.

–  Especially on your first walk of the day (after your dog has spent the night in their crate), do not come home from your walk until your puppy has done their business. If, for whatever reason, you do need to return, return your puppy to his crate and let him back out every 15 minutes until they use the restroom.

The crate:

Your puppy’s crate is his special sanctuary away from any stresses during the day. It functions as his bedroom and his own personal spot that no one else uses.

Your puppy should associate his crate with only positive things. Be sure to keep his favorite toys, blankets and treats inside. While he is still adjusting to the crate, leave the crate door open until he has no anxiety about being inside it.

The better your puppy feels about his crate, the lower the chances of him using the restroom inside it.

Do not encourage bad behaviors by letting your puppy out of the crate for whining, scratching or barking.

Getting Started:

– Create a daily schedule of taking your puppy out and feeding him.

– At night time, put your puppy in his crate, but be sure to take him outside first thing in the morning and do not return from your walk until he has used the restroom.

– After you’ve taken your puppy out and he has eliminated, bring him indoors and allow him to play for about an hour. (Also remember to keep an eye on his whereabouts in the house until he is fully housebroken.)

– Feed your puppy.

– Using the information about your puppy’s natural schedule that you’ve already written down, take him outside within fifteen minutes of when you anticipate he will need to go. Do not return from outside until he has used the restroom.

– Come back inside and allow the puppy to play.

– Put your puppy back in his crate for naptime.

Repeat this schedule throughout your day.

This may seem like a ton of effort, and it is, but this is a method that is wildly effective. Your puppy will quickly be house trained and when your puppy is older, he will inform you when he needs to go out. During the training process, you will have confidence in your dog and know that accidents are much less likely to happen.

Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts courtesy Dog Articles.

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My Dog Is Marking In The House!

If you see a woman chasing a dog from room to room, threatening them with a mop, it’s possible you are watching a dog owner who has a male dog that’s been marking in the house.

It should be understood that marking behavior is not the same as ordinary peeing in the house, although the result may be the same.  Marking behavior, which may be no more than sprinkling everything in sight, is not a housetraining issue.  It is about territory, dominance and sexuality.  Sometimes it is about insecurity.  But even dogs that are thoroughly housetrained can mark in the house.

Marking is usually, but not always, an issue that involves male dogs.  Some females will mark in the house, but by far most dogs that exhibit marking behavior are male.

Dogs mark by peeing on furniture or other items in order to establish their territory.  They are “marking” something as theirs.  They are usually motivated to do so to show their status.  There may be other dogs in the household that they think should be reminded about their position.  There may be females around and they want to advertise their sexual availability.  Or, the male may be insecure in some way and marking makes him feel bigger and tougher.  He’s tossing his hat in the ring, so to speak.  He wants to be one of the guys.

As you probably know, dogs have incredible noses and they can gather a wealth of information from sniffing urine.  Your dog is leaving information about himself and his position when he marks something.

Not surprisingly, most owners don’t appreciate this practice in their homes.

Marking is far more prevalent with unneutered males since it seems to be linked to testosterone.  Neutering at any point in a dog’s life does seem to reduce or nearly eliminate the behavior (though it is not a guarantee).  So, you might suggest to your intact male that if he doesn’t want to lose something he values he should knock off the marking.  If that doesn’t work, there are some other ways to try to discourage marking behavior.

One of the best ways to stop the marking is to catch your dog in the act.  This usually requires very close supervision and immediate correction.  You may have to confine your dog to one small area of the house in order to watch him closely.  You may even need to put him on a retractable leash in the house.  However, this method is effective.

You can also make yourself a shaker bottle using an old soda bottle and fill it with pennies or something else that rattles.  Watch your dog and as soon as he starts to mark you give your command, “NO MARK!” and rattle the shaker at him.  The goal is to startle him into not marking.  Do this consistently for a couple of days and he should be on his way to breaking the habit.

You may need to confine your dog while you are away from home, at least while you are trying to break the marking habit.  You can crate your dog for a few hours while you are away from home in order to control the marking.  Make sure your dog goes outside to potty, as usual, and praise him when he pees outside.

Remember to thoroughly clean every area where your dog marks in the house.  These areas are special to him and you have to remove all trace of the urine so he won’t be tempted to mark there again.  A 50/50 solution of vinegar and water works well.

If none of these solutions works you may have to resign yourself to putting a belly band on your dog.  A belly band is a wrap which fits around your dog’s waist and over his penis.  You fit it inside with a sanitary napkin.  If your dog is tempted to mark and lift his leg then he pees into the band and not onto anything in the house.  It’s really a method of last resort.

My Dog Is Marking In The House courtesy Dog Articles.

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Puppy Mill Problems

If you’re considering getting a new puppy there are a lot of options.  One of them is buying from a ‘puppy mill.’  A puppy mill is usually considered to be a substandard breeding facility that produces large numbers of puppies annually.  They may supply puppies of many different breeds.

Some of these facilities are licensed by the government and inspected by the USDA.  Care and conditions must meet certain criteria.  Others fly under the radar and go without inspections.  Inspected kennels may produce healthy puppies which receive vaccinations and are then trucked to pet stores at a young age.  Kennels which operate without inspections may sell directly to buyers.  Since they are operating without inspections it is more likely that the facilities are deficient and the conditions for the dogs are poor.  These are the ‘puppy mills’ you sometimes see in videos and on TV in undercover investigations.

If you buy a puppy from one of these poor facilities odds are that the puppy could have begun life with many problems.  The puppy is likely to be the victim of breeding from poor quality parents who may exhibit health and genetic problems, dirty conditions, cramped quarters, perhaps no early vaccinations or worming, and the list goes on.

All puppies are adorable, but a puppy’s mother and her health are extremely important.  So are his surroundings in the first few weeks life.  A puppy who gets off to a bad start in poor puppy mill surroundings can have health or behavioral problems that last the rest of his life.  It is possible to buy a healthy dog from these sources but many people buying from puppy mills have bought unhealthy puppies.  Some puppies may even die soon after purchase.

Puppies in pet stores may come from several sources including licensed commercial breeders and inferior puppy mills.  There may be no way to tell the difference in the pet store.  Even looking at the puppy’s registration papers will not tell you what type of breeder or kennel produced the puppy.  Purchasing a puppy in a pet store also encourages people to make impulse purchases which is never a good idea where a dog is concerned.  That cute little ball of fur may grow up to be a 100 pound pet who can eat you out of house and home.

If you are seeking a new purebred puppy consider going to a reputable breeder.  Contact the breed parent club for the breed and they can put you in touch with people who are expecting litters.  Reputable breeders perform health testing on their dogs before they choose which dogs to breed to make sure they are fit to breed.  Puppies raised in a home environment receive much more socialization, love and personal care than any commercially-raised puppy can ever receive.  Reputable breeders also carefully screen potential buyers and guarantee their puppies for health problems in the breed.

Breed parent clubs can also tell you about purebred rescue if you might be interested in a young adult or an older dog.  There are nearly always purebred dogs available in rescue looking for great homes.

Puppy Mill Problems courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps

Ask any dog owner what is the most important thing that their new dog learns and 9 out of 10 will say that they want their dog to be housetrained. The problem is that there are more dogs that are not housebroken than are. The reason for that is because many dog owners are not patient enough to train their dogs, so they give up.

Dogs actually do want to please their owners. They are pack animals and because you are the one that provides food and shelter you are the alpha dog; you are the pack leader. But you have to think like a dog and work with them. Housebreaking can be done in four simple steps as follows:

1) Restrict the area that your dog is allowed to freely roam in. This should be no more than the area that you can keep watch over. By limiting the area to what you can supervise you will be able to closely monitor your dog.

2) Be diligent about taking your dog out as you should. Puppies will need to go out more often than older dogs. Always be ready to immediately take the pet outdoors when he wakes up. This is a time that you count on that he will look for a spot to ‘go’. Dogs also ‘go’ after eating, drinking, and exercise. Once again, older dogs can wait much longer than puppies.

3) When you take the dog out be sure to say whatever word or phrase you want him to associate with the deed. Just keep in mind that you may be saying this in public at some point in time so make it something that is not embarrassing. Taking your dog to the same place each time helps him to associate the spot with the deed. Do not play with your dog during these trips outdoors. He needs to understand that the trip has a purpose. When he finishes you should lavish praise on him, let him know he did good.

4) Repeat until your dog gets the idea and begins signaling to you that he needs to go out. If your dog makes a mess indoors it means that you were not monitoring as closely as you should have been. Never punish your dog for accidents. Simply continue with the training and expect that there will be a few accidents along the way. Some dogs continue to have occasional accidents but others will do anything not to ‘go’ indoors.

Many small breed owners find that the use of puppy pads works for their dogs. Rather than taking their little dog out the dog simply messes on the pad and it is disposed of. This also works for dogs that are left alone for long periods of time.

Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking A Puppy

New puppies are fun and exciting, but they can also be challenging. One of the biggest concerns for a new dog owner is making sure to house-train their puppy. An un-housebroken dog can make a very unpleasant home situation, so getting your puppy started on training should be a priority early on.

One good thing to know is that dogs like to keep their homes clean just like we do. They must, however be able to do that, meaning that you need to be able to let your dog out several times a day to use the restroom. In the first couple of months with their mothers, puppies learn basic hygiene and should therefore already be inclined to go outside, away from their den, if they have the opportunity to.

Housetraining your puppy may very well turn out to be easier than you anticipate it will be. A dog that has easy and frequent access to the outdoors, either through regular walks or a flap doggy dog, is much less likely to have an accident than if he were inside all day. Take your puppy outside every three to four hours and reward good behaviors with praise and he will soon be house trained. While this amount of freedom for your dog is ideal, it may not be practical due to daily schedules.

House breaking gets tough in situations where your puppy has to remain inside for long periods of time. While a dog will naturally not go where he sleeps, you have to teach your puppy the difference between your home, an inappropriate area to go and outdoors, an appropriate area to potty.

This process may be frustrating but investing time and patience into it will make it successful. Accidents will happen, but getting angry or upset about them will only hinder the process. Your puppy doesn’t understand this training situation the way you do and any negative energy directed at them during this time will only make them less likely to housebreak quickly.

A better idea than getting frustrated would be to keep an eye on your puppy and learn the signs of when he needs to go to the restroom. When he is indicating that he needs to go, take him outside and then praise him when he does his business. After he’s done his business, the area will be marked with the scent of his urine and he will be more likely to go back to this spot do his business again. Remember it is a puppy so be patient.

Housebreaking A Puppy courtesy of Dog Articles.

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Beloved Companion and Therapy Dogs

By far the most common use of today’s Labrador is as a home companion, a role at which he excels. Surprisingly, the Labrador Retriever was rarely kept strictly as a house pet until several decades after the breed’s introduction to the United States. The initial fanciers of the breed became acquainted with him through knowledge of the shooting game. When the breed was well established as a sporting companion, his docile, brainy nature won his way out of the kennel and into the home.

The Labrador Retriever’s ability to quickly adapt and respond to instruction made the transition quite easy. Today, puppies raised in the home actually become so entwined in the lives of their owners that they often suffer when relegated to the kennel life. (If you are planning to keep a kennel of Labradors, select puppies that are properly socialized but still familiar with kennel life.)

As a companion, the Labrador Retriever is good-natured and gentle enough to accept the roughhousing of youngsters without returning it. If properly socialized while young, a Labrador will share his “home with another dog, providing there is enough affection for all. It is more common for a Labrador to misbehave out of jealousy than out of dislike for another animal.

Labrador Retrievers are long on self-control and loyalty, but they do not make the most avid watchdogs. As a rule, they are not overly suspicious of strangers or highly protective of loved ones, and when natural instincts are not stimulated they can be inattentive to such a task. Always keen for a scent or sound, a Labrador Retriever would certainly give voice at the approach of an intruder, but he might be won over by a friendly gesture or a luscious piece of sirloin. If left on duty, a Labrador Retriever may wander off in search of a scent that has caught his attention. In short, he is a people-dog. If you really need a watchdog, get your Labrador a German Shepherd friend!

The value of companionship with this breed should not be underestimated. In recent years, obedience-trained Labradors as well as other breeds are being used as Therapy Dogs to enrich the lives of nursing home residents and even emotionally disturbed children. The process is simple: a group of experienced dog handlers, such as those trained by Therapy Dogs International, bring their dogs to visit, perhaps put on an obedience performance for the audience, and then let animals and humans mingle, if conditions permit. The dogs are all obedience trained and have proven themselves to be extremely gentle and outgoing. Their job is to make people feel wanted, and it works wonders for alleviating the loneliness and depression that often burden such lives. Labradors love people and the few hours Therapy Dogs share with others enrich both dog and man.

Beloved Companion and Therapy Dogs courtesy Dog Articles.

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5 Tips For Spotting A Disreputable Dog Breeder

New dog owners should always make sure that their purebred pup comes from a reputable and responsible breeder. This is really is the only way to ensure that the animal will be free of any medical or behavioral problems. If a breeder you speak with displays any of the following 5 behaviors, he or she probably isn’t breeding healthy puppies in accordance with standards that have been set for the breed.

1. The breeder is willing to sell you any puppy you want, no questions asked.

All reputable dog breeders care about what happens to each and every puppy they breed, even after it leaves their care. Indeed, a good breeder will ask you many, many questions about your lifestyle, experience with the breed, house and property size, show or breeding experience, and any other aspect of your life that may affect the puppy’s future. If your answers to these questions are not satisfactory, then the breeder probably won’t sell the puppy to you. A good breeder will also require that you sign a contract in which you agree to: have the puppy fixed if you’re not going to breed it; notify the breeder if the dog develops any diseases or medical conditions; notify the breeder first if you are no longer able to care for your dog; and, do anything else the breeder feels is important for the health and well-being of the puppy and the breed. If your breeder doesn’t seem to care about the puppy’s future and only seems interested in payment, go to another breeder.

2. The breeder seems reluctant to answer questions about the puppy’s pedigree.

A reputable breeder knows all about the pedigrees of the puppies he or she sells. He or she knows who the parents were and can provide you with each puppy’s lineage, going back several generations. You will also want to register your purebred puppy with the American Kennel Club (AKC). The breeder is supposed to supply you with an AKC registration application with his or her portion already filled out. After you fill out and submit your part of the application, you’ll receive an AKC registration certificate. If the breeder you are dealing with cannot provide you with any documentation or registration papers for either the litter or the parents, be extremely wary.

3. The breeder does not seem too concerned with the health of his or her animals.

Any potential buyer of a purebred puppy should be able to see the facility in which the animal was bred. Do the puppies and other dogs there look healthy? If not, then the breeder may not be maintaining an appropriate standard of care. This could definitely affect the current and future health of the puppy in which you’re interested. The breeder should also have a record of the puppy’s health care, from birth to the present, and should be happy to provide you with copies. He or she should also guarantee that the puppy is free from any genetic disorders.

4. The breeder will not allow you to see the breeding facility.

Any reputable breeder will be happy to give you a tour of their facility. If the breeder you’ve chosen is not willing to let you see where your potential puppy comes from, the breeder may be running a puppy mill. Puppy mills are facilities that breed puppies only for profit, not for the benefit or love of the breed. Often, multiple dogs are crammed into one cage, the living conditions are filthy and the dogs there do not receive the proper nutrition or medical care. If the puppy you want comes from such a facility, it will most likely have serious medical and behavioral issues related to its stay there.

5. The breeder engages in questionable business practices.

If the asking price for your purebred puppy is significantly lower than other prices you’ve seen advertised for the same breed, there may be something wrong with the dog. Perhaps it comes from a puppy mill or has some serious medical issues. If the breeder also sells to pet stores, you can be pretty sure that he or she is operating a puppy mill. Reputable breeders usually concentrate on one or two breeds. If the breeder advertises that he or she has many different breeds for sale, then this is another indication that he or she may be breeding animals indiscriminately, without much concern for set breed standards.

5 Tips For Spotting A Disreputable Dog Breeder courtesy Dog Articles.

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Crate Training Your Golden Retriever

You’re going to have to get over your old idea that crates are punishment for dogs. The truth is that your Golden Retriever will love his crate. It’s a safe place that satisfies his natural instinct for his den. All dogs are instinctively den-dwelling creatures, and his crate may be an excellent substitute that meets your Golden Retriever’s genetic need for a warm, safe place, particularly when he’s afraid or confused. At the same time, it’s not a good idea to let your Golden stay in his crate for hours on end, as this could cause other behavioral problems that will be difficult to solve.

When you bring your Golden Retriever puppy home for the first time, the open crate should already be there in the spot you want it to be permanently. The crate should probably be located centrally in the house but not in a high-traffic area. Many people leave their crate near an outside door so that their Golden Retriever can go outside to potty when h needs to. Put a toy, a dog treat, or a blanket in the crate to provide a point of interest or comfort.

But don’t take the puppy to the crate or put him in it. Just let him roam the house, sniffing everything and finding his way around. Your Golden Retriever puppy will find the crate, and he’ll probably want to visit it often. When your Golden Retriever puppy finds and enters the crate, give him lots of praise. If the puppy seems to want to stay for a while, you can close the door to see how he’ll react.

Stay nearby at first and, if the puppy whines, reassure him with gentle words. If he gets upset, excited or is barking, don’t let him out of the crate. This will reward the puppy for bad behavior. Rather, leave your puppy in the crate until he calms down. Then opening the door will be a reward for good behavior. Once the puppy is comfortable with the crate, it’ll be safe to leave him in it now and then, for example when you have to leave the house for a little while. After your Golden Retriever puppy gets used to his new home and family, you can leave the crate door open. He’ll probably start to wander in and out of the crate. Remember, praise him while he’s in the crate to reinforce the behavior.

It will take some time to crate train your new Golden Retriever puppy, but not nearly as long as you may think. Crates can be a safe haven for your puppy, so never use it as punishment or a “time out.” Consistently show your Golden Retriever that his crate is his own private home, his place and his alone. Natural instinct and positive reinforcement will accomplish the desired behavior.

Crate Training Your Golden Retriever courtesy of Dog Articles.

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