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10 Pet Safety Tips You Should Know

In some ways having a pet is like having a child.  You have to do all of the thinking and planning for him.  You have to be prepared for every contingency.  That means being prepared in case of emergencies and taking the proper precautions ahead of time.

Here are some tips that should help you take good care of your dog:

1.  Make sure that your dog is up-to-date on his vaccinations and that he has proper tags and ID at all times.  Microchips are recommended.  This is a great help should your dog ever become lost.  It gives him the best possible chance of being returned to you if somebody finds him.

2.  Obey leash laws.  This means that you should keep your dog safely contained in your own yard behind a fence.  When you have your dog out with you make sure that he is restrained on a good quality leash.  Don’t let your dog run loose.  This is dangerous to him and a nuisance to the neighborhood.

3.  Be careful what you feed your dog.  No chocolate.  No onions.  No raisins.  If in doubt about something your dog eats or if you suspect poisoning call your local veterinarian immediately.  Know the number of your closest emergency vet clinic and the shortest route in case you have an emergency at night.

4.  Crate train your dog.  Your dog should ride in a crate in your vehicle.  This is the safest way for your dog to travel.  Crate training is also a great way to help house train your dog.  If you ever intend to fly anywhere with your dog he will also need to fly in a crate.

5.  Keep a pet first aid kit on hand and know how to use the contents.  A good first aid kit should contain blankets, surgical tape, a muzzle, an antibacterial ointment (such as Neosporin), cotton swabs, tweezers, gauze and gauze pads, hydrogen peroxide, ipecac, scissors, forceps, diarrhea medication, and activated charcoal.  Remember that if your dog experiences an injury that he may react out of fear or pain.  Be careful in handling him.  He could bite you accidentally.

6.  Take special precautions in hot summer weather and during extreme cold.  Remember that dogs can’t sweat and that they suffer during extremes of weather just as people do.  They should not be left in vehicles during either extreme, even for a few minutes.

7.  Remember that your dog needs fresh water available at all times.  Dogs can become dehydrated just as people can.

8.  Take special precautions with dogs when there may be fireworks or other loud noises.  Many dogs are sensitive to these loud booms and can become frightened from them.  Some dogs can bolt and become lost.

9.  Old dogs need special care.  Keep an eye on their weight.  You don’t want them to be either too thin or too much overweight.  Both can be signs of an underlying health problem.  Make allowances for their age.  Provide a softer place to sleep, give them more time to eat, make their food more appealing.  Take them for a senior check-up starting when they’re about seven-years-old.

10.  Be patient with puppies.  They come to you not knowing anything.  They will make mistakes.  Teach them using positive training techniques and they will be able to learn anything you want to teach them.  A trained dog is a happier dog and has a better chance of fitting into your home and lifestyle and living a wonderful life with you.

10 Pet Safety Tips You Should Know courtesy Dog Articles.

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Your New Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy – A Supplies Checklist

Acquiring a pet as an addition to the home may be one of the most rewarding things in life. Choosing a Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppy in itself is already a plus. With proper care and attention, Pembroke Welsh Corgis develop to be intelligent, loving, and affectionate companions. However, bear in mind that your newest family member also comes with special needs. This simple checklist will help assure that you acquire all the essentials to keep your new puppy happy and healthy. Cover the basics with these items:

Collar – collars are not just an accessory, they ensure control over your dog. Sometimes it’s also good to have a harness as not to injure your dog especially when you take it on walks.

Leash – Traditional and retractable ones both work fine.

Name tag – In case your little one decides to wander off on its own.  Small bell for collar – It always helps to keep track of your new puppy since they are usually very quiet.

Carrier /crate- For convenient transportation of your new puppy. This will also aide you in puppy training in the future.  Restraining gate – To ensure secure a place for it in your home.

Healthy treats – This is especially crucial since Pembroke Welsh Corgis are prone to obesity.  Toys – To keep your puppy entertained as well as stimulate it mentally.

Pooper scooper – To help you conveniently clean up its mess when nature calls. Health and Hygiene needs of your new Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy:  Dog food – Some dogs may prefer dry pellets, while some prefer canned food. But to start off, you can always do a combination of both. Simply mix in a teaspoon of canned food with some pellets for each feeding.

Food and water bowls – To establish a permanent feeding station for your dog.

Food scoop and storage bin – To keep its food clean and fresh.

Shampoo – Make sure you get a mild product especially made for puppies.

Dental Health Products – This includes specially formulated toothpaste for dogs, a brush, and finger glove for more accurate cleaning.

Finishing Touches: Microchipping – perhaps one of the greatest investments you can make for your puppy. The moment you acquire your new Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppy, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for a general check-up. Make sure you cover issues with vaccination and other health concerns. Take your dog home and get settled. Spend time with it to help it bond with all the other members of the family and make sure it adjusts well to its new home. Most importantly, give your puppy the best care it can get.

Your New Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy – A Supplies Checklist courtesy Dog Articles.

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Requirements Before Breeding

During breeding, some female dogs tend to be uncooperative.  Therefore, it is usually necessary to assist your young stud.  If you are there helping him and praising him, whether or not your help is actually needed, he will expect and accept this as a matter of course when a difficult female dog comes along.

Supplies that you may need for breeding include K-Y jelly and a length of gauze with which to muzzle the female should it be necessary to keep her from biting you or the stud.  Some females put up a fight while others are calm.  It is therefore best to be prepared.

It is wise for both parties to have the terms of the transaction clearly understood before the breeding starts.  At the time of the breeding, the stud fee is expected to be paid promptly.  A return service is normally offered in case the female misses or fails to produce one live puppy.  The owner of the stud dog usually sets the conditions of the service and there are no standard rules covering this. The stud fee is paid for the act, not the result. If the female fails to conceive, it is customary for the owner to offer a free return service; but this is a courtesy and not to be considered a mandatory, especially in the case of a proven stud.  Stud dog owners are always anxious to see their clients get good value and to see winning young stock in the ring by their dog.

If the return service has been provided and the female dog has missed a second time, that is considered to be the end of the matter and the owner would be expected to pay a further fee if it is felt that the female should be given a third chance with the stud dog.  The owner of a stud dog and his visiting females is quite a task, and a stud fee has usually been well earned when one service has been achieved.

One live puppy is considered as an accepted litter.  It is ideal to have a printed  breeding certificate to which the owner of the stud dog and the owner of the female dog both sign. This should list in detail the conditions of the breeding as well as the dates of the mating.  On some occasion, arrangements other than a stud fee in cash are made for a breeding, such as the owner of the stud taking a pick from the litter puppy in lieu of money.  This should be clearly specified on the breeding certificate along with the terms of the age at which the stud’s owner will select the puppy, whether it is to be a boy or a girl, or whether it is to be the pick of the entire litter.

Requirements Before Breeding
courtesy Dog Articles.

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What To Expect When Your Dog Is Expecting

Are you getting ready for your dog to have puppies? Having a litter of pups sounds like a lot of fun, but there is much work involved. Here are some tips on how to get your dog and you ready for birth.

The first thing to know is that your dog will be pregnant on average for 63 days. This is not very much time so make sure you are ready.

You will want to make sure that you are feeding your pregnant dog appropriately. Your dog will need to eat more than usual and you may want to transition to a growth type food or puppy food during the pregnancy. You should do this by decreasing the amount of regular food you give your dog each day while increasing the amount of new food. It’s best if you do this over the course of about a week to help prevent loose stool.

Check with your veterinarian to see what is appropriate for diet. Make sure to feed your dog a high quality diet. You do not need to supplement the diet with vitamins unless it is recommended by your veterinarian. Always follow their recommendations. Your dog may experience symptoms similar to human morning sickness around the third week of pregnancy. If this lasts longer than one week, take your dog to the veterinarian to see if there are any underlying problems.

You will want to continue regular walks with your dog during the pregnancy. It is important to get some exercise, but if you have a working dog or do sports with your dog, you will want to discontinue these until after the puppies are weaned. However, three weeks prior to delivery, you will want to isolate your pregnant dog from all other dogs. This must continue until at the very least, three weeks after the puppies are born. There are infectious diseases carried by unvaccinated dogs that may not be very harmful to adult dogs but can be fatal to puppies.

If your dog is due for vaccination during the pregnancy, hold off on this until after the puppies are weaned. Vaccination during pregnancy can be harmful to the fetuses. Ideally, you will want to have your dog vaccinated just prior to breeding.

When getting ready to deliver, make sure to provide a comfortable place for whelping and raising the puppies. It should be somewhere where your dog can come and go, but the puppies are confined to.

When it is time to deliver, your dog’s body temperature will drop slightly. You can monitor this with a rectal thermometer. Normal canine temperature is between 100-102 degrees. When it drops below 100 degrees, you can usually expect labor in 24 hours. When your dog starts to go into labor, she will become restless and may pant, shiver, or vomit. This is normal. Make sure to provide fresh water to her at all times. This stage of labor may last up to 12 hours. When she begins to deliver the pups, they will be covered with a thin membrane which must be cleared away. The mother should do this herself, but should she neglect to do this, you will need to clear it away or the pup will suffocate. You will need to tie the umbilical cords in a knot and cut them above the knot. Pups will come about one per hour with up to half an hour of straining in between deliveries. It is not unusual for your dog to take a break of a few hours during delivery.

You will need to call your veterinarian if your dog does not deliver within one day of her temperature drop, she is straining to deliver for more than an hour, takes more than a four hour break between pups, seems to be in great pain, or has been pregnant for more than 70 days. Some breeds require cesarean sections so make sure to discuss this with your doctor prior to delivery. If you feel that anything else unusual is occurring, contact your veterinarian immediately.

It is always important to discuss all of your concerns and what to expect with your veterinarian prior to delivery.

What To Expect When Your Dog Is Expecting courtesy Dog Articles.

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Pembroke Welsh Corgi – The Smallest of the Herding Dogs

The Pembroke Welsh Corgi is a fascinating and robust pooch. Although only 10 to 12 inches high at the shoulder, this little breed packs a punch. They were originally designed to herd cattle, sheep and other livestock. Their shortness was key as they were able to dodge kicks from livestock, in particular avoiding a kick altogether by having the hooves swing just over their heads.

Their stout stature is accompanied by short yet thick legs and they are much longer than they are tall. This dog breed was first recorded in the 11th century and was simply referred to as a Corgi. In 1926, they were accepted by the AKC (American Kennel Club), but it wasn’t until 1936 that two distinct breeds were recognized. There are two Corgi dog breeds, the Cardigan Welsh Corgi and the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. The main difference between the two is that one has the presence of and one has the lack of a tail.

The Pembroke Welsh Corgi has a naturally bobbed tail. If a Pembroke is born with a short tail, it is said that the genetics of its predecessor (the Cardigan) have been exhibited. That dog then has its tail docked and is not used in the breeding process. Another characteristic of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is that it is not as thick boned as the Cardigan, but none the less sturdy and quick in stride. The thick legs are followed closely by a thick undercoat to protect them from the weather and has slightly longer guard hairs. Because of this thick coat of fur, they need to be brushed regularly, at least five solid minutes once a week, but more like 15 minutes. Bathing should be done only occasionally, maybe once every two or three months. Another obvious characteristic of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi (and the Cardigan) is its large ears.

They stand up and are designed to catch the sound of their owner as they whistled commands to them in the field. Their eyes are slightly oval in shape and these dog breeds have keen eyesight. It is because of their long backs that the Pembroke Welsh Corgi and Cardigan are prone to intervertebral disc disease. Another concern may be hip dysplasia as this dog is very active and loves to run, their hips are more prone to damage. Hip dysplasia is also due to its overall bone structure as well. However, good breeding helps to reduce these medical possibilities. Their health is good overall and these dog breeds live for 11 to 13 years of age. As far as their temperament goes, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is active, loving, devoted to its family and a wonderful companion. They can live outside, but crave the company of their family and are better suited to be indoors. Their size makes them compatible with apartment living. They do require daily exercise and mental stimulation, however. A nice long leash walk and some play time with a few toys can meet this requirement and also create a long lasting bond.

Pembroke Welsh Corgi – The Smallest of the Herding Dogs courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts

Dogs are considered “man’s best friend” for a good reason – they are known to develop deep and meaningful bonds with their owners and remain loyal to them. Television shows, movies and books have all been devoted to the intensity of the bond between a human and their dog and this isn’t without good reason!

If you have a new puppy in your home, congrats! A dog can be your closest friend in the world and will never turn down your affections, will never stop listening when you need an ear and will be your friend for the rest of their life if you take the time to build a healthy relationship with them.

However, the dog in your home does not make the rules. You do. That being the case, you need to make sure your animal understands what is acceptable and what is not. Dogs don’t train themselves!

Be sure to make big decisions early such as what he will chew on and play with, where he will sleep and what is off limits to him (for example: Can he get on the furniture? Are any rooms in the home off limits?).

Housebreaking your dog as a young puppy will help ensure they respond successfully and quickly to the training and thus be a happy and positive member to the household, causing you (and him) as little stress as possible.

The crate training method is a perfectly humane and quick way to train your puppy not to go in the house.

Before we dive into that, some Do’s and Don’ts on housebreaking your new family member:

Do’s:

Be Consistent. Without your consistency, your puppy will only get confused as to what you are expecting it to do.

Do regulate your dog’s food and water intake during the day. Never withhold food or water if your animal needs it, but remember that the more your animal eats or drinks, the more it will need to go to the bathroom.

Do remember to stay close to your puppy. If you aren’t near him, he will have no way to get let out to use the restroom. If you have to be gone for long periods of time while you are training him, make sure that you keep the puppy in a limited area of your home where you are prepared to have accidents happen.

Do reward your doggy with praise whenever he does what you’ve asked or expected him to do. Your puppy wants to make you happy and he needs to learn what are the right things to do that generate that praise he is seeking.

Be realistic. As frustrating as house training can be, your new dog may not be completely housebroken until 6 months of age or more.

Don’ts:

Don’t allow your pup to use the restroom anywhere other than his designated area during the training period.

Don’t discipline your dog when he has an accident. While housebreaking a new puppy, accidents are inevitable and when they do happen it means you did not get him outside to use the restroom soon enough. Clean up the mess and move forward.

Don’t use your puppy’s crate as a way to punish them, the crate should not be associated with negativity. Also, don’t lock your doggy up in their crate for long periods of time.

The crate method and why it works:

Dogs are by nature picky about where they do their business. They will not use the restroom where they eat or sleep. If your puppy sleeps in their crate, they simply will not use the restroom in it.

To Begin With:

– Puppies urinate often. Anytime they drink, eat, run, chew, play or walk they will need to use the restroom within 15-30 minutes following depending on the size, age, temperament, and breed of your puppy.

– Document how often and when your puppy needs to do his business for a few days. Keeping an eye on his general schedule will make training easier.

– After you’ve determined your puppy’s natural schedule, plan your walks around it. Between the ages of 10 weeks to 6 months, your puppy should be taken out or walked 5 to 10 times daily. Between 6 months and 11 months this number will drop down to 4 to 6 times daily. After he is grown 3 to 4 times daily should be enough.

–  Especially on your first walk of the day (after your dog has spent the night in their crate), do not come home from your walk until your puppy has done their business. If, for whatever reason, you do need to return, return your puppy to his crate and let him back out every 15 minutes until they use the restroom.

The crate:

Your puppy’s crate is his special sanctuary away from any stresses during the day. It functions as his bedroom and his own personal spot that no one else uses.

Your puppy should associate his crate with only positive things. Be sure to keep his favorite toys, blankets and treats inside. While he is still adjusting to the crate, leave the crate door open until he has no anxiety about being inside it.

The better your puppy feels about his crate, the lower the chances of him using the restroom inside it.

Do not encourage bad behaviors by letting your puppy out of the crate for whining, scratching or barking.

Getting Started:

– Create a daily schedule of taking your puppy out and feeding him.

– At night time, put your puppy in his crate, but be sure to take him outside first thing in the morning and do not return from your walk until he has used the restroom.

– After you’ve taken your puppy out and he has eliminated, bring him indoors and allow him to play for about an hour. (Also remember to keep an eye on his whereabouts in the house until he is fully housebroken.)

– Feed your puppy.

– Using the information about your puppy’s natural schedule that you’ve already written down, take him outside within fifteen minutes of when you anticipate he will need to go. Do not return from outside until he has used the restroom.

– Come back inside and allow the puppy to play.

– Put your puppy back in his crate for naptime.

Repeat this schedule throughout your day.

This may seem like a ton of effort, and it is, but this is a method that is wildly effective. Your puppy will quickly be house trained and when your puppy is older, he will inform you when he needs to go out. During the training process, you will have confidence in your dog and know that accidents are much less likely to happen.

Housebreaking Your Puppy Do’s and Don’ts courtesy Dog Articles.

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My Dog Won’t Listen To Me

Bringing home a new puppy is very exciting but we often forget that a new puppy doesn’t know very much.  He’s still a baby.  His mother and siblings have taught him a few things about being a dog but when it comes to understanding people, he’s a rank beginner.

It doesn’t matter how many times you tell him, “NO!” or “OFF!”  Your puppy hasn’t yet learned what these words mean.  He doesn’t even know his name yet.  He really has no idea what it means when you tell him to lie down or leave something alone.

Your puppy will quickly become very good at reading your body language and understanding the tone of your voice but you will have to patiently teach him each word and phrase that you want him to know.  Puppies aren’t born knowing English or any other language.  It’s up to you to teach him the basic vocabulary.

If you are adopting an adult dog then he will also have to learn some things when he comes to living with you.  He may know some basic words and phrases, especially if he has been housebroken already.  But your family will probably have some words that are unknown to him.  There may be some new rules that he doesn’t know yet.  It will take a little time for your new dog to learn the new words for things.  He may know some things by other names — “bathroom” for “potty,” or “dinner” for “supper,” and so on.  Try different words for things and see if he gives a reaction.  You may find the words that he knows.

On the other hand, there are times when your puppy or dog does know certain words and may choose to ignore you.  If you have been training your puppy or dog and you know that he knows the word “Sit” but he won’t sit for you, then there may be something wrong with your training methods.  Most likely your training is inconsistent.  You may not train very often and your dog doesn’t see any reason why he should obey the command when it is only used once in a while.  In these situations you should train more often so your dog will take the training more seriously.

If you let your dog sleep on your bed six nights in a row and on the seventh night you tell him very sternly that he’s not allowed on the bed, the chances are that he’s not going to take you seriously.  Training is the same way.  If you want your dog to listen to you then you must be consistent in what you tell your dog and in what you expect him to obey.  Be consistent, use the same words for things, and always be fair.  You must also train regularly so that your dog knows you are committed to what you are teaching him.

If you are inconsistent or you don’t train very often, then your dog is apt to ignore you.

Remember that your puppy isn’t born knowing any language at all.  Like human children, puppies have to learn the meaning of words.  They cannot hope to learn any training until they begin to understand some words in the home.  Fortunately, puppies learn very quickly and they can start to learn all that we have to teach them — and some things we don’t mean to teach them.  Your puppy will begin listening to you as soon as he is able.  It’s up to you to teach him things that are worth learning.

My Dog Won’t Listen To Me courtesy Dog Articles.

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How Is A Cardigan Welsh Corgi Different From A Pembroke Welsh Corgi?

There are a number of differences between these two breeds starting from the early beginnings where some people have said that the older Cardigan Welsh Corgi’s were from Cardiganshire, possibly brought there by the Celts in 1200BC. While the Pembroke Welsh Corgi’s ancestors were thought to be introduced by Flemish weavers to the Celts in the 1100BC.

Either way they were interbred and considered the same breed until 1934 where the two different breeds were identified and separated from then on. The most obvious distinction between the two breeds is that the Pembroke Welsh Corgi has a natural bob tail (short tail) or sometimes born without a tail. They also have straighter legs due to the shorter body length. Their head is generally in a wedge- shape with smaller ears that are situated close together as well as they tend to be the lightest breed between the two.

They have been known to have a higher risk for hip dysplasia. The Cardigan Welsh Corgi’s tend to me more active than their counter-part and need regular exercises. They are also slightly larger in size but have shorter legs and have their full tail. There are more colors and patterns in this breed as well as being the less common breed between the two. Their coat is generally a bit wiry in comparison, but both breeds have a double coat fur for weather resistance. With much shorter legs than the Pembroke, this helps them when they role away from the dangers of kicking cows. Their personalities may differ slightly as the Cardigan Welsh Corgi is said to be more reserved, although both are quite stubborn, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi tends to be more tolerant of other non-canine animals in the household.

The Pembroke Welsh Corgis are also the favorite breed of Queen Elizabeth II who owns quite a few; they have been favored for over seventy years within the British Royalty. At last count she owned 16 of them. As part of the history between these two breeds there are two theories in regards to their origin: That some Cardi’s were cross bred with the Swedish Vallhund Dogs, or some of the original Pem’s evolved from the Cardi’s and other dogs, including Pomeranian, Schipperke and other Spitz-type dogs. In general these two lovable breeds are extremely similar in looks; intelligence and temperament, but still have their slight individualism’s and traits that stand them apart. Lee Mullins discusses differences between a Pembroke Welsh Corgi and a Cardigan Welsh Corgi.

How Is A Cardigan Welsh Corgi Different From A Pembroke Welsh Corgi courtesy Dog Articles.

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AKC Vs. RBDA: What’s The Difference?

What is all the hype about our dogs belonging to a club? Many pet owners do not even belong to a club. Dog owners, who take pride in their pets, will generally register their dogs in some kind of kennel club, especially if they plan to breed their dog. Registered dogs tend to cost a little more and are more appealing to dog buyers.

AKC stands for American Kennel Club. It is the most well known kennel club in the United States. They are dedicated to supporting the sport of pure breeds. They were found back in 1884 and they are a promoter of responsible dog ownership. Although the AKC is dog friendly, no matter the status of the breed, they believe that purebred dogs are more predictable in several aspects. Hence, they believe that purebreds make better pets. Half of American homes have pets and 36% of them are dog owners; Therefore, more emphasis should be placed on the subject.

The AKC stays very active. They encourage the sport of purebred dogs. They sponsor over 15,000 dog competitions a year

The AKC deals with approximately one million applications a year. Although, they do not specialize in the selling of purebreds. Because of this, they can not vouch for the health of the animal.

If you were to purchase a dog that comes from an AKC registered blood line, you will also receive an application for your dog’s registration. Someone who is buying an AKC registered dog must realize that the certification is in no way guarantying that the dog is in perfect health or that the quality of the dog is without flaw. It is only stating that the canine is a direct offspring of a known sire (stud/father) and dam (mother/bitch) and that it is born on a factual date. They must also be from the same breed. In order to register a litter of puppies, the sire and dam must be AKC registered and the litter born in the US.

The owner of the litter wanting to register the litter must fill out an application which requires basic information such as: date of mating and birth, the number of males and females born in the litter, the sire and dam’s registered names and numbers and lastly the owner’s address and signature. You must fill out the form and send it back to the AKC. They, in turn, will send you paperwork for each individual puppy to be filled out partly by you. Once the puppies have been purchased, the new owner will have to fill out the remaining information and send it back, with a fee, the AKC. After they have processed your application, you should receive an official AKC Certificate in the mail.

The Rare Breed Dog Association is another type of dog registration. You may wonder what exactly is a “rare dog breed.” In simple terms, it is a dog that the American Kennel Club does not recognize. They have a number of services they offer such as: Public awareness of the rare breed dog; Education of the rare breed dog; Registration of the rare breed dog; as well as rare breed dog shows. Their goal is to watch over the “Rare Breed Dog” in the US and educate the public of the over 130 rare dog breeds that are out there. The RBDA have a number of groups that they represent. The following are dog groups along with a few of the actual breeds they represent:

– Companion Group (American Hairless Terrier, Bolognese, Cavalier King Charles)
– Herding group (King and English Shepherd, Akbash)
– Hound group (Basset Artesien Normand, Black Forest Hound, Batard)
– Spitz group (Canadian Estimo Dog, Carolina Dog, Chinook)
– Sporting group [( Barbet, Boykin Spaniel, Bracco Italiano) These sporting group dogs are located in the Gundog group located in various in Europe]
– Terrier group (American Pit Bull Terrier, Cesky Terrier, Jadgterrier)
– Working group ( Aidi, Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog, American Bulldog)

Whether you have a rare breed dog or a purebred dog, there our resources out there to get your dog registered. Once again, either way you go, it does not prove the quality of the animal, just the family line. Although, if purchasing a dog, buying an AKC or RBDA registered dog is the best way to tract the history of the dog. Either way, a dog is a dog. They serve a variety of purposes, and as long as they are fulfilling that purpose, that is what’s important.

AKC Vs. RBDA: What’s The Difference courtesy Dog Articles.

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My Dog Is Marking In The House!

If you see a woman chasing a dog from room to room, threatening them with a mop, it’s possible you are watching a dog owner who has a male dog that’s been marking in the house.

It should be understood that marking behavior is not the same as ordinary peeing in the house, although the result may be the same.  Marking behavior, which may be no more than sprinkling everything in sight, is not a housetraining issue.  It is about territory, dominance and sexuality.  Sometimes it is about insecurity.  But even dogs that are thoroughly housetrained can mark in the house.

Marking is usually, but not always, an issue that involves male dogs.  Some females will mark in the house, but by far most dogs that exhibit marking behavior are male.

Dogs mark by peeing on furniture or other items in order to establish their territory.  They are “marking” something as theirs.  They are usually motivated to do so to show their status.  There may be other dogs in the household that they think should be reminded about their position.  There may be females around and they want to advertise their sexual availability.  Or, the male may be insecure in some way and marking makes him feel bigger and tougher.  He’s tossing his hat in the ring, so to speak.  He wants to be one of the guys.

As you probably know, dogs have incredible noses and they can gather a wealth of information from sniffing urine.  Your dog is leaving information about himself and his position when he marks something.

Not surprisingly, most owners don’t appreciate this practice in their homes.

Marking is far more prevalent with unneutered males since it seems to be linked to testosterone.  Neutering at any point in a dog’s life does seem to reduce or nearly eliminate the behavior (though it is not a guarantee).  So, you might suggest to your intact male that if he doesn’t want to lose something he values he should knock off the marking.  If that doesn’t work, there are some other ways to try to discourage marking behavior.

One of the best ways to stop the marking is to catch your dog in the act.  This usually requires very close supervision and immediate correction.  You may have to confine your dog to one small area of the house in order to watch him closely.  You may even need to put him on a retractable leash in the house.  However, this method is effective.

You can also make yourself a shaker bottle using an old soda bottle and fill it with pennies or something else that rattles.  Watch your dog and as soon as he starts to mark you give your command, “NO MARK!” and rattle the shaker at him.  The goal is to startle him into not marking.  Do this consistently for a couple of days and he should be on his way to breaking the habit.

You may need to confine your dog while you are away from home, at least while you are trying to break the marking habit.  You can crate your dog for a few hours while you are away from home in order to control the marking.  Make sure your dog goes outside to potty, as usual, and praise him when he pees outside.

Remember to thoroughly clean every area where your dog marks in the house.  These areas are special to him and you have to remove all trace of the urine so he won’t be tempted to mark there again.  A 50/50 solution of vinegar and water works well.

If none of these solutions works you may have to resign yourself to putting a belly band on your dog.  A belly band is a wrap which fits around your dog’s waist and over his penis.  You fit it inside with a sanitary napkin.  If your dog is tempted to mark and lift his leg then he pees into the band and not onto anything in the house.  It’s really a method of last resort.

My Dog Is Marking In The House courtesy Dog Articles.

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