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Dogs in Heat: The Facts

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There are numerous questions that people ask, when learning about dogs in heat. There are practical   answers that help dog owners to understand the estrous cycle.

The proper name for heat is the estrous cycle and during this cycle a dog can become pregnant. The obvious sign is bleeding from the vagina and the vulva might be swollen. The bleeding isn’t profuse, especially in small dogs. She will urinate more often. The biggest clue is the sudden surge of male dogs hanging around your yard. Observe the small dog before her first cycle more carefully, as it can be harder to tell when she first goes into the estrous cycle.

The majority of  female dogs come into heat at between six to twelve months of age, though it can be sooner or later. For some it it as long as fourteen months. Have your vet examine your dog, if she hasn’t cycled in fourteen months. They normally come into heat twice yearly. The smaller dogs are the ones that might come into their cycle earlier and the larger breeds might take longer than the usual time.

The estrous cycle is broken into four parts.

1) Proestrous is the initial stage. Its duration is between four and twenty days. The dog bleeds, is usually shy, her vulva is swollen, and she isn’t receptive to male dogs.
2) The estrous part of being in heat is from five to thirteen days long. The female dog is receptive to males and the blood secretion is a lighter color.
3) Diestrous is the next stage and now her secretions lessen and she begins to lose interest in the male dogs. If she got pregnant, the pregnancy duration would be between sixty and sixty-four days.
4) Anestrus is the period when the dog’s heat cycle finishes and she stays in in his stage for five to eleven months.

The majority of the cycle is around three weeks and doesn’t include the most of the anestrous period.

When your dog is in heat, she will be more excitable and can use some extra attention. Brushing,  petting, and talking to her will soothe her nerves. You can control the mess made through bleeding by putting a doggy pad on her or keeping her in her “den” area when inside. The space normally set aside as her place to sleep is her den. Visit her often, if she is confined to this space.

Breeders of dogs usually test for progesterone  levels, which signifies the dogs most fertile days. Normally those days are the 11th through the 15th day of heat. She can become pregnant during her first heat. The majority of breeders don’t breed their dogs that soon. They usually have genetic testing done prior to breeding. Some serious hip problems aren’t apparent until the dog is about two years old.

Spaying her is advisable, if you don’t want her to have puppies. The traditional advice has been to allow her to experience one cycle or  have puppies once before spaying. But vets now spay earlier. Ask your vet how soon you can have your dog spayed.

Dogs in Heat: The Facts courtesy Dog Articles.

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How Old Should My Puppy Be When I Bring Him Home?

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Puppies come from many different places.  You may be getting a puppy from a shelter or from a breeder.  Wherever your puppy is coming from he needs to learn a lot of things from his mother and siblings before he comes home with you.  Ideally, your puppy should remain with his mother and littermates until he is at least eight weeks old.  Unfortunately, there are people who are separating puppies from their mothers and littermates much earlier than this and sending them home with people at five-six weeks old.  There are a number of reasons this is a bad idea and why you should never take a puppy this young.

At the age of five-six weeks puppies have barely been weaned from their mothers.  They have not yet learned how to be dogs.  When you bring a puppy this young to your home he has not learned any rules.  He doesn’t know that he is not supposed to play too rough.  He has not learned “bite inhibition,” which means that he is more likely to bite you and have a hard time learning that he isn’t supposed to do it.  He has not learned the kind of manners that his mother would teach him.  Your puppy has not learned that there is a pack leader and that he can’t do what he wants all the time.  Your puppy has not learned any dog socialization or social skills.  You are bringing home a cute puppy who is much more likely to grow up to be a brat and develop behavioral problems as an adult.

At the age of five-six weeks your puppy may not have even received his first set of shots.  He is far more likely to develop a deadly disease like Parvo if you bring him home at this age than if you bring home a puppy at the age of eight weeks or later.  Your puppy’s immunity from his mother is virtually gone and he has not been properly immunized by vaccinations yet.  Bringing home a puppy this young is unhealthy for the puppy and for any other dogs in your household.

At the age of five-six weeks a puppy has not received any socialization from the person who brought him into this world.  A good breeder will make sure that a puppy becomes used to things in a house, such as televisions, radios, vacuum cleaners, and scary things like cats, umbrellas, and kids.  When you bring home a puppy who has not met these things they have no human socialization.  They are more likely to grow up to be fearful adults and develop problems like separation anxiety later in life.  A good breeder will also make sure that a puppy receives his first set of shots (at least) before you bring him home.

Good breeders do not release puppies at five-six weeks of age.  They may allow you to meet puppies at this age.  They may make arrangements with you.  But they will not allow puppies to leave their home at such a young age.  It’s too young.

If you are getting a puppy from an animal shelter you may  have to take a puppy at this age because it could be dangerous to leave them in the shelter longer since shelters can house diseases.  Be sure to get your puppy vaccinated against diseases as quickly as possible and take extra care in socializing your puppy in the coming months to try to make up for the socialization he missed with his mother and littermates.

How Old Should My Puppy Be When I Bring Him Home courtesy Dog Articles.

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Making Life Easier For The Handicapped

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Having proved their love for humans and their desire to serve, Labradors are now being trained throughout the world to assist many types of handicapped owners in the chores of everyday life. You have probably seen a handicapped man or woman being guided by a loving and well-trained Labrador Retriever at some time.  With some assistance, many people who would formerly have been confined in their activities are now entering the mainstream of society. Their extensively trained Labradors are their vehicles to freedom.

Because Labradors have extraordinary sense of perceptions, they are one of the breeds being widely used as Hearing Ear Dogs. After completing a rigorous four- to six-month obedience and auditory awareness program, they are specifically trained to the individual needs of their hearing-impaired or deaf owners. Their primary tasks are  to alert the owner to the noises that most people take for granted such as the doorbell or telephone, the alarm clock, a baby crying, smoke alarms, oncoming traffic, or emergency sirens. The Hearing Ear Dog makes his owner aware of any important sound by running between the sound and the owner until attention is paid, gently nudging an owner who is asleep, or pulling the owner from harm’s way.

Aid Dogs are trained to assist physically disabled people with tasks requiring dexterity or mobility. This variety of tasks include picking up items dropped on the floor to bringing in the mail or turning light switches on and off. These skills are taught to a Labrador by building on his natural intelligence, retrieving instincts, gentle nature, and his desire to please. After mastering a battery of advanced obedience techniques, each dog is placed with his disabled owner and taught the specific chores he will be required to perform in the home.

With an arthritis sufferer, for example, the Aid Dog will retrieve or carry objects as commanded. With a more severely handicapped individual, such as a wheel-chair-bound stroke victim or paraplegic, a system of communicating with the dog may also have to be devised to replace vocal commands or hand signals. Aid Dogs learn to assist their owners by performing many of the physical tasks they are unable to handle, in this way widening the owners’ abilities to take an active role in the world around them.

Making Life Easier For The Handicapped courtesy Dog Articles.

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Preparing Your Dog for the Arrival of Your Baby

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Congratulations! You’re pregnant and your “pack” will soon be growing. If you’re like most people, you’re caught between anticipation and trepidation. As an expecting dog owner the very first thing that you should do is to identify the changes that need to be made in the life of your dog once the baby arrives and implement them NOW!

You do not want your dog to associate any changes that need to be made in your relationship with the arrival of your child thus setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic. Failing to implement relevant changes in the life of your dog prior to baby’s arrival is the single most common mistake expecting dog owners make. And keep in mind, things that you do not consider problematic now might become problematic with a child in your midst. So take a careful look: is your dog sleeping in bed with you, pushy and demanding, barky, prone to steal things and get into mischief when you’re not looking? Or worse, is he over-protective, suffer from separation anxiety and sensitivity to sudden and unpredictable movements?

Problems like these are readily resolvable but resolution depends on building the right relationship with your dog, a relationship in which your dog is in the habit of taking direction from you. Simple things like always giving your dog a command before you have an interaction with him, not letting him run out the door ahead of you, and being a little aloof with him can do a world of good in causing your dog to cheerfully accept your leadership role. Additionally, there are many things that help create not only safety but very positive associations for your dog with the presence of your child. Here’s an example.

Start by making the future baby’s room off limits to your dog. Once that’s handled, allow him to enter the room only with your permission and accompaniment. Once in the room always ask him for certain obedience exercises, especially down-stays. Soon he’ll get the idea that when he enters this room he’s to do a down-stay in the corner (you could even put a bed for him there). In addition, teach your dog to tolerate alone time every day. Once your baby arrives, allow your dog to come into the baby’s room when you go in to change diapers or play or whatever and assume his down-stay. If he has been left alone for a few hours prior to that he will welcome the contact. In other words, the presence of your child means a positive social engagement for him. This is quite different than what usually happens which is that when mommy goes to play with or care for baby, doggie gets thrown out, thus potentially setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic.

Other things that you can do to ensure a seamless transition to siblinghood for your dog include: o Teaching him the difference between doggie toys and child’s toys (start by getting doggie toys that are distinctly different from baby toys since often these two bear striking similarities). o Get a baby doll and wrap it in a scented baby blanket and teach your dog appropriate manners around your “faux baby,” thus setting up a template of behavior for future interactions. o Hire a dog walker to take over exercise responsibilities during the period immediately after birth. This will take a lot of pressure off of you and produce a tired dog.

Never allow unsupervised interactions between your dog and your child. While the above does not comprise a comprehensive list by any means, it should serve to provide a sense of direction and purpose. All that having been said, keep in mind that your true test of the success of your efforts at integration will be seen once your child passes the eight-month threshold when your little one starts crawling and becoming mobile. This means that the frequency of unexpected encounters between your child and your dog will increase dramatically. That’s where you’ll find out if all your hard work paid off. In closing, please understand that what I’ve outlined above represents the tip of the iceberg of strategies designed to make the integration of your dog and your child as seamless, warm and rewarding as possible.

While learning and implementing such strategies implies varying amounts of work, it promises a wholesome and fulfilling relationship between your child and your dog. The payoff of this relationship will last for years and thus makes any work you have to put in on the front end more than worth it.

Preparing Your Dog for the Arrival of Your Baby courtesy Dog Articles.

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How Do Dogs Get Tapeworms?

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Worms aren’t a very pleasant topic but they are something that you should know about if you have a dog.  You may hear about different kinds of worms and wonder how your dog can get them.  How does your dog get tapeworms, for instance?

Dogs get tapeworms from eating fleas.  Fleas ingest tapeworm eggs and when your dog eats the fleas he eats the tapeworm eggs, too.  They then happily hatch out inside your dog.  A single tapeworm can grow to be four to six inches long in your dog’s intestine.  The tapeworm’s head attaches to the intestine.  As it grows it is followed by many little linked segments.  These little segments look like rice.  They break off and your dog passes them when he uses the bathroom.  You can sometimes see them in his stool or they can catch on the fur around his rectum.  A single tapeworm may have 90 of these segments.  Each of these segments contains more eggs for the tapeworm.

When you take your dog to the vet (and this is one reason why you should take your dog for an annual check-up), your vet can identify these little white links as tapeworm segments.  Sometimes these links will show up in a fecal exam, but there is no guarantee that a tapeworm will conveniently break off when your dog is at the vet so your vet may not find the segments when he does the fecal exam.

Over-the-counter wormers for dogs do not work on tapeworms.  You will need a prescription wormer from your vet to kill the tapeworms.

A tapeworm can infect your dog for a year or more.  They rob your dog of the nutrients that pass through his digestive system.  Your dog may have abdominal discomfort, he may be nervous, and he may vomit.  If you notice these signs in your dog, even if you don’t see the rice-like segments of the tapeworm around your dog’s tail or in his stool, take your dog to the vet and tell him that you suspect your dog may have tapeworms.

Tapeworms can be passed to humans so it’s very important to kills these parasites as quickly as possible.  Beefing up your flea control will help prevent tapeworm infestations from getting started.  If your dog has had tapeworms you will also need to treat your yard and home.

If you have a puppy, most vets will offer worming when your puppy has his series of puppy shots.  Make sure that you get this worming for your puppy since it will take care of any tapeworms that your puppy may have when you first get him.

There are other worms and parasites that can bother your dog but most of them can be killed by over-the-counter wormers for dogs, with the exception of heartworms.  Make sure that you get your dog tested annually for worms with a fecal exam to find out if he has any worms or parasites.  Your vet can answer any questions you have about parasites and your dog.

How Do Dogs Get Tapeworms courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking A Puppy

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New puppies are fun and exciting, but they can also be challenging. One of the biggest concerns for a new dog owner is making sure to house-train their puppy. An un-housebroken dog can make a very unpleasant home situation, so getting your puppy started on training should be a priority early on.

One good thing to know is that dogs like to keep their homes clean just like we do. They must, however be able to do that, meaning that you need to be able to let your dog out several times a day to use the restroom. In the first couple of months with their mothers, puppies learn basic hygiene and should therefore already be inclined to go outside, away from their den, if they have the opportunity to.

Housetraining your puppy may very well turn out to be easier than you anticipate it will be. A dog that has easy and frequent access to the outdoors, either through regular walks or a flap doggy dog, is much less likely to have an accident than if he were inside all day. Take your puppy outside every three to four hours and reward good behaviors with praise and he will soon be house trained. While this amount of freedom for your dog is ideal, it may not be practical due to daily schedules.

House breaking gets tough in situations where your puppy has to remain inside for long periods of time. While a dog will naturally not go where he sleeps, you have to teach your puppy the difference between your home, an inappropriate area to go and outdoors, an appropriate area to potty.

This process may be frustrating but investing time and patience into it will make it successful. Accidents will happen, but getting angry or upset about them will only hinder the process. Your puppy doesn’t understand this training situation the way you do and any negative energy directed at them during this time will only make them less likely to housebreak quickly.

A better idea than getting frustrated would be to keep an eye on your puppy and learn the signs of when he needs to go to the restroom. When he is indicating that he needs to go, take him outside and then praise him when he does his business. After he’s done his business, the area will be marked with the scent of his urine and he will be more likely to go back to this spot do his business again. Remember it is a puppy so be patient.

Housebreaking A Puppy courtesy of Dog Articles.

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Beloved Companion and Therapy Dogs

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By far the most common use of today’s Labrador is as a home companion, a role at which he excels. Surprisingly, the Labrador Retriever was rarely kept strictly as a house pet until several decades after the breed’s introduction to the United States. The initial fanciers of the breed became acquainted with him through knowledge of the shooting game. When the breed was well established as a sporting companion, his docile, brainy nature won his way out of the kennel and into the home.

The Labrador Retriever’s ability to quickly adapt and respond to instruction made the transition quite easy. Today, puppies raised in the home actually become so entwined in the lives of their owners that they often suffer when relegated to the kennel life. (If you are planning to keep a kennel of Labradors, select puppies that are properly socialized but still familiar with kennel life.)

As a companion, the Labrador Retriever is good-natured and gentle enough to accept the roughhousing of youngsters without returning it. If properly socialized while young, a Labrador will share his “home with another dog, providing there is enough affection for all. It is more common for a Labrador to misbehave out of jealousy than out of dislike for another animal.

Labrador Retrievers are long on self-control and loyalty, but they do not make the most avid watchdogs. As a rule, they are not overly suspicious of strangers or highly protective of loved ones, and when natural instincts are not stimulated they can be inattentive to such a task. Always keen for a scent or sound, a Labrador Retriever would certainly give voice at the approach of an intruder, but he might be won over by a friendly gesture or a luscious piece of sirloin. If left on duty, a Labrador Retriever may wander off in search of a scent that has caught his attention. In short, he is a people-dog. If you really need a watchdog, get your Labrador a German Shepherd friend!

The value of companionship with this breed should not be underestimated. In recent years, obedience-trained Labradors as well as other breeds are being used as Therapy Dogs to enrich the lives of nursing home residents and even emotionally disturbed children. The process is simple: a group of experienced dog handlers, such as those trained by Therapy Dogs International, bring their dogs to visit, perhaps put on an obedience performance for the audience, and then let animals and humans mingle, if conditions permit. The dogs are all obedience trained and have proven themselves to be extremely gentle and outgoing. Their job is to make people feel wanted, and it works wonders for alleviating the loneliness and depression that often burden such lives. Labradors love people and the few hours Therapy Dogs share with others enrich both dog and man.

Beloved Companion and Therapy Dogs courtesy Dog Articles.

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Dog Crates: Indoor Dog Dens

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Many dog owners wonder what dog supplies are important to have for their little friends. While they know they need to provide food, shelter, and toys, there are often questions regarding the use of dog crates. The questions are usually related to house-training.

First we need to discuss how dog crates can compare to dog dens. In the wild dogs have dens as their homes. This could be a cave, an area under fallen a log, or even under an out building. These dens provide the dogs with a certain amount of shelter and protection. The dens make them feel safe.

Essentially, the dogs will use their dens as a place to sleep and relax. They strive to keep the area clean. In other words they do not urinate or defecate inside the den.

Dogs living in the home also look for a place to serve as a den. They may choose to use a spot behind or under a piece of furniture. But if a dog crate is provided they are very likely to accept that as the den – that is, if the dog crate is used correctly.

Dog crates should never be used as a place of punishment. Instead they should be the dog’s safe place – the place they go for comfort. Be sure that the crate is large enough to be comfortable for your pet. You can help create that feeling of reassurance by adding a soft blanket or other bedding material for your furry little friend. It’s also a good idea to keep a favorite toy in the crate.

The idea is to make the time in the crate enjoyable. This even includes when you are using a crate as a housebreaking aid. The reason crates are helpful in this training task is that you can keep your puppy (or dog) confined for a period of time without making a mess of the crate. Remember, the dog will accept the crate as his den and he wants to keep his den clean.

Keep in mind that puppies need to relieve themselves very often. You can expect the need immediately after waking up, after eating or drinking, after playing or other exercise, and sometimes in between. Of course you should not keep your puppy in the crate all the time. The crate should be used when you are not available to watch over your puppy.

However, it is best to allow the puppy to be in a confined area with you whenever possible. If you must be gone for long periods of time you may want to invest in a dog play pen. These pens offer a larger area but still provide a safe and confined place for the puppy to stay while you are gone.

Dog Crates: Indoor Dog Dens courtesy Dog Articles.

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Crate Training Your Golden Retriever

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You’re going to have to get over your old idea that crates are punishment for dogs. The truth is that your Golden Retriever will love his crate. It’s a safe place that satisfies his natural instinct for his den. All dogs are instinctively den-dwelling creatures, and his crate may be an excellent substitute that meets your Golden Retriever’s genetic need for a warm, safe place, particularly when he’s afraid or confused. At the same time, it’s not a good idea to let your Golden stay in his crate for hours on end, as this could cause other behavioral problems that will be difficult to solve.

When you bring your Golden Retriever puppy home for the first time, the open crate should already be there in the spot you want it to be permanently. The crate should probably be located centrally in the house but not in a high-traffic area. Many people leave their crate near an outside door so that their Golden Retriever can go outside to potty when h needs to. Put a toy, a dog treat, or a blanket in the crate to provide a point of interest or comfort.

But don’t take the puppy to the crate or put him in it. Just let him roam the house, sniffing everything and finding his way around. Your Golden Retriever puppy will find the crate, and he’ll probably want to visit it often. When your Golden Retriever puppy finds and enters the crate, give him lots of praise. If the puppy seems to want to stay for a while, you can close the door to see how he’ll react.

Stay nearby at first and, if the puppy whines, reassure him with gentle words. If he gets upset, excited or is barking, don’t let him out of the crate. This will reward the puppy for bad behavior. Rather, leave your puppy in the crate until he calms down. Then opening the door will be a reward for good behavior. Once the puppy is comfortable with the crate, it’ll be safe to leave him in it now and then, for example when you have to leave the house for a little while. After your Golden Retriever puppy gets used to his new home and family, you can leave the crate door open. He’ll probably start to wander in and out of the crate. Remember, praise him while he’s in the crate to reinforce the behavior.

It will take some time to crate train your new Golden Retriever puppy, but not nearly as long as you may think. Crates can be a safe haven for your puppy, so never use it as punishment or a “time out.” Consistently show your Golden Retriever that his crate is his own private home, his place and his alone. Natural instinct and positive reinforcement will accomplish the desired behavior.

Crate Training Your Golden Retriever courtesy of Dog Articles.

Looking for a great gift idea? Who wouldn’t love a cutting board showcasing their favorite breed? Check out all of the great doggie gift ideas on Amazon.com –doggieoftheday@amazon.com


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Bringing Home An Older Dog

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Older dogs have special needs.  If you decide to bring home an older dog you will need to do some special things for him.  His health, his activities, his comfort in your home, his diet– all of these things will depend on you.

Whether you are adopting an older dog, you receive one from a friend, or you find an older dog as a stray, your first step should be to take your new friend to the vet. Even if your older dog looks healthy, many times older dogs have some hidden health issues that you can’t see.  Your older dog will need geriatric health screening at some point but you may not need to do that right away.  Your vet should, however, look at your dog’s teeth to make sure they are in good shape.  Poor teeth can often cause an older dog to be unable to eat properly.  This can lead to loss of weight and general poor health.  Your vet can make sure that your older dog is current on vaccinations — although you should not over-vaccinate an older dog. This general checkup should be able to catch any immediate health problems in your dog.

You should also pay close attention to the diet of your older dog. What has he been eating?  What kind of condition is he in?  Is he too thin?  Too fat?  If he’s in good condition you can continue to feed him what he’s used to eating, but if he needs to gain or lose weight you can gradually switch him to a better food.  You do not have to choose a “senior” dog food.  Experts are split on whether these senior foods are actually good for older dogs.  Many dogs lose weight on them.  They are generally designed for dogs that gain weight in their later years — they are tested on Labrador Retrievers and Beagles, which gain weight easily.  If you have a breed that loses weight when they’re older, as many dogs do, these senior foods would be a bad choice.  Instead, you can continue feeding a dog food for “all life stages.”  You can add supplements for joint health, such as glucosamine-chondroitin, MSM and others, if you wish.  People are divided on whether these supplements actually help an older dog but they don’t do any harm.

If your older dog has any particular health conditions, as diagnosed by your vet, you can add the appropriate supplements or medications.

If your older dog has hip dysplasia or other joint problems, you can work on activities that may help him.  Swimming is often good for some hip dysplasia.  If your dog is overweight then moderate exercise, such as long walks with you, is highly recommended.  Find the appropriate exercise for your older dog.  He’s not a young dog anymore but he can and should partake of exercise that he’s able to do.

Finally, make sure that you keep your older dog comfortable in your home.  His joints and bones may be achy sometimes.  Provide him with comfortable places to sleep, such as a soft doggy bed.  Orthopedic doggy beds are very good for dogs with any kind of hip dysplasia.  If your dog has joint problems or just feels old and moves more slowly, heated beds or heating pads under some covers can make him feel better.  If your dog eats more slowly because he’s missing some teeth give him plenty of quiet time to eat his food. Don’t rush him.

Your older dog may take some time to adjust to living in your home but he will most likely be very happy living with you if you do your best to take good care of him.  Follow these tips and your older dog will adjust to your home very quickly.

Bringing Home An Older Dog courtesy of Dog Articles.

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