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Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever

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The general appearance of the Labrador should be that of a strongly built and a very active dog. He should be fairly wide over the loins and strong and muscular in the hindquarters. The coat should be close, short, dense and free from feather.

The skull should be wide, giving brain room; there should be a slight stop, the brow should be slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The head should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks. The jaws should be long and powerful; the nose should be wide and the nostrils are well developed. Teeth should be strong and regular.

The ears should hang moderately close to the head, rather far back, should be set somewhat low and not be large and heavy. The eyes should be of a medium size, expressing great intelligence and good temper, and can be brown, yellow or black, but brown or black is preferred.

The neck should be medium length, powerful and not throaty. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The chest must be of good width and depth, the ribs are well sprung and the loins wide and strong, stifles are well turned, and the hindquarters are well developed and of great power.

The legs must be straight from the shoulder to ground, and the feet compact with toes well arched, and pads well developed; the hocks should be well bent, and the dog must neither be cow hocked nor be too wide behind; he must stand and move true all round on legs and feet. Legs should be of medium length, showing good bone and muscle, but not so short as to be out of balance with rest of body.

The tail is a distinctive feature of the breed; it should be very thick towards the base, gradually tapering towards the tip, of medium length, should be free from any feathering, and should be clothed thickly all round with the Labrador’s short, thick, dense coat, thus giving the peculiar “rounded” appearance which has been described as the “otter” tail. The tail may be carried gaily but should not curl over the back.

The coat is another very distinctive feature; it should be short, very dense and without wave, and should give a fairly hard feeling to the hand.

Movement should be free and effortless. The forelegs should be strong and true, and correctly placed. Watching a dog move towards one, there should be no signs of elbows being out in front, but neatly held to the body with legs not too close together, and moving straight forward without pacing or weaving. When viewing the dog from the rear, you should get the impression that the hind legs, which should be well muscled and not cow hocked, move as nearly parallel as possible, with hocks doing their full share of work and flexing well, thus giving the appearance of power and strength.

Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever courtesy Dog Articles.

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Ten Tips for Effective Great Dane Training

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Great Danes are a giant breed of dog. Due to their size and strength, it is very important to train them starting at a young age. 8 to 12 weeks old is appropriate to begin with the basics that any dog should know; come, sit, stay and no. Your Great Dane may need to know a few commands that your average sized or small dog might not need, like heel, down and gentle as well as socialization training and perhaps crate training. Your Great Dane training should contain these 10 tips.

1. Great Danes (as well as any dog with a deep chest) are prone to a medical condition called bloat or gastric torsion. This can become deadly and it is therefore very important NOT to teach your Great Dane to roll over.

2. Do NOT punish your Great Dane (or any dog for that matter). A simple stern “no” is all it should take if they do something wrong. Yelling, hitting or other negative actions can create what is termed as a “fear biter,” and the ones that usually get bitten are the owners or innocent bystanders.

3. The heel command is necessary for Great Dane training. Your Great Dane will need mild exercise at least once a day and the best way to do that is to go for a walk. To teach your new best friend to heel, begin with the sit command and when they are still and calm, begin to walk, give a gentle tug on the leash and say “heel.” If your Great Dane pulls or gets too rough, come to a dead stop and get them to sit again. Lather, rinse and repeat.

4. Counters and tables are the perfect height for most Great Danes. Commands like off, no and down are important to include in your Great Dane training.

5. Your Great Dane training should account for their sensitive nature. Great Danes can suffer from separation anxiety perhaps a bit greater than other more independent dogs. You can desensitize them by leaving the room and coming back when they are calm. Slowly increase the time that you are gone.

6. Crate training is another good form of Great Dane training that may be useful to keep them from getting into trouble or suffering from separation anxiety. Be sure to get a crate that allows them to stand and turn around in.

7. Don’t forget to praise your Great Dane when they get it right. Positive reinforcement works well with Great Danes.

8. Be patient and consistent when you work your way through Great Dane training. Great Danes are smart and learn things well. They want to please their owners and they will understand what you want them to do, eventually.

9. Give them the proper medical attention that they need. Unhealthy dogs are more prone to behavior problems and it’s not their fault. If your Great Dane is urinating in the house unexpectedly, you may want to take them to the vet.

10. Finally, the Great Dane is an awesome pet for the family or the individual. Your dog training should include socialization as they can be protective and territorial. They need to know how to behave around strangers and other dogs as this breed can be a little aggressive towards them. Your behavior and attitude toward them is the best way to instill good Great Dane training behaviors. By following these basic instructions your Great Danes true personality will begin to unfold and you will see a marked improvement in your companionship. As your puppy grows, so will your bond. When trained properly, these gentle giants can leave a lasting impression on anyone they encounter.

Ten Tips for Effective Great Dane Training courtesy Dog Articles.

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Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps

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Ask any dog owner what is the most important thing that their new dog learns and 9 out of 10 will say that they want their dog to be housetrained. The problem is that there are more dogs that are not housebroken than are. The reason for that is because many dog owners are not patient enough to train their dogs, so they give up.

Dogs actually do want to please their owners. They are pack animals and because you are the one that provides food and shelter you are the alpha dog; you are the pack leader. But you have to think like a dog and work with them. Housebreaking can be done in four simple steps as follows:

1) Restrict the area that your dog is allowed to freely roam in. This should be no more than the area that you can keep watch over. By limiting the area to what you can supervise you will be able to closely monitor your dog.

2) Be diligent about taking your dog out as you should. Puppies will need to go out more often than older dogs. Always be ready to immediately take the pet outdoors when he wakes up. This is a time that you count on that he will look for a spot to ‘go’. Dogs also ‘go’ after eating, drinking, and exercise. Once again, older dogs can wait much longer than puppies.

3) When you take the dog out be sure to say whatever word or phrase you want him to associate with the deed. Just keep in mind that you may be saying this in public at some point in time so make it something that is not embarrassing. Taking your dog to the same place each time helps him to associate the spot with the deed. Do not play with your dog during these trips outdoors. He needs to understand that the trip has a purpose. When he finishes you should lavish praise on him, let him know he did good.

4) Repeat until your dog gets the idea and begins signaling to you that he needs to go out. If your dog makes a mess indoors it means that you were not monitoring as closely as you should have been. Never punish your dog for accidents. Simply continue with the training and expect that there will be a few accidents along the way. Some dogs continue to have occasional accidents but others will do anything not to ‘go’ indoors.

Many small breed owners find that the use of puppy pads works for their dogs. Rather than taking their little dog out the dog simply messes on the pad and it is disposed of. This also works for dogs that are left alone for long periods of time.

Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps courtesy Dog Articles.

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How To Do Doggy Pedicures

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Are you comfortable with bathing and grooming your dog, but are concerned about nail trimming? Don’t worry, it’s not nearly as hard as it seems to get your dog’s nails down to a good length.

The first thing to ease your worries and give you a good idea of how to trim your pet’s nails would be to watch someone who is experienced in pet nail trimming. A friend, a groomer or your vet won’t have a problem letting you watch and maybe even giving you some beginner tips.

Some dogs may never need their nails clipped. Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors wearing them down should have them relatively short already, or your animal’s nails may just flake away at the ends without you even knowing. Some breeds, however, do need their nails kept short- a couple examples would be Dachshunds or Basset Hounds.

Remember, accidents happen and there may be a time you will cut a nail too short. If this happens, it may begin to bleed so be prepared, but don’t be startled if it happens.

The first step to trimming your dog’s nails would be to purchase a good nail trimmer. You can ask your vet or someone in your local pet supply store which they recommend. The trimmers that have two pieces you squeeze together in your hand and a small blade that cuts the nail are the type that you want to get.

Start from underneath, not from the top downward. Slide the opening of the trimmer over the nail, but be sure to remain on the whitish area of the dog’s toenail. The pink area of the nail has blood vessels running through it and if you cut it that far, the nail will bleed.

Some dogs have very dark toenails where you won’t be able to see where the live part begins or where the white part ends. In this case, trim a little from the bottom of the nail at the time, checking the end of it as you go. The dead part will be white and as you get close to the live part of the nail, it will get dark.

When you are ready to trim, make a quick, easy squeeze on the handle of the trimmer. The end of the nail will fall of itself, you don’t have to pull it off. If you like, you can file down the ends of the nail, but taking your dog for a walk on the sidewalk or street will file them just as easily.

If you do cut the nail too short and it starts to bleed, hold a piece of tissue against it with some pressure for a few minutes. Another good idea is to keep some cornstarch or flour handy when you trim your dog’s nails and to put some of this against the bleeding nail. If your dog’s nail continues to bleed longer than a few minutes or if it looks like he is losing a lot of blood, call your vet.

Nail trimming really is not as scary as it seems. You can do a little bit at a time or all at once every week, but just remember that you are not harming the dog and that it needs to be done.

How To Do Doggy Pedicures courtesy of Dog Articles.

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Why Behavior Training Is A Must For Your New Dog

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You’ve just gotten a new puppy or dog, obedience training should begin right away or as soon as possible. By beginning your training early, you will start your dog off on the right foot to learning his rules and boundaries, so that he will know what is considered to be, acceptable behavior and what is not. The rules and knowledge that both you and your dog will learn and acquire in obedience training must be reinforced and constantly reminded throughout the dog’s life in order for it to be successful.

Training courses are most effective when there is plenty of owner participation and interaction, this will enable the owner to continue the journey themselves once the course has been completed. By being consistent, the goal of a well behaved dog will be achieved. Being firm and using correction as needed and praise and rewards when he’s doing well, will help you obtain this goal. Be sure to address any undesirable behavior with your training instructor. During obedience training, your dog may find and make new friends. The first three months of a puppy’s life is when they are most pliable and can be molded into a sociable dog that can readily form relationships.

If a dog is socialized as a young puppy but later on isn’t the given opportunity to be around other dogs into adulthood may forget his social learning and become aggressive or fearful of others. This is best prevented by continuing to have him around others and allowing him the opportunity to play throughout his lifetime. From there, take your new family member everywhere you can with you, for rides in the car, for walks, to the park and in public as much as possible. In keeping a steady routine you will help your dog realize that this is a part of normal everyday life, so that he will not feel threatened or fearful, get overly excited or become aggressive.

By gradually introducing your new best friend to the world around him, applying and putting the rules you have learned for him into practice, you will gradually turn your dog into a polite and well mannered pleasure to be around, for both you and the public so that you can take him anywhere without worry or concern as to whether he will misbehave. A responsible dog owner should value his/her dog’s behavior as how others will view him and other dog owners. A well mannered dog doesn’t growl or bark relentlessly at people or other dogs and animals around him. He doesn’t tug and pull at his leash, jump on others, or on things he shouldn’t.

Mounting is not an acceptable behavior either. Spayed or neutered dogs also will do best in public situations and around other unfamiliar dogs for several reasons. Aggression will be greatly reduced, marking (if neutered or spayed early) will not be near the problem it would be otherwise, mounting should disappear and there will be much less unwanted puppies to worry about. Wandering will also most likely cease.

Why Behavior Training Is A Must For Your New Dog courtesy Dog Articles.

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Grooming Your Golden Retriever

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Grooming your Golden Retriever is a never ending process.  The entire process should be down once or twice a week, and will take you around a ½ an hour of time.  Brushing your dog while he is shedding will help to control shedding quite a bit.  While outside, if your Golden Retriever manages to get burs or other defects in his hair, you should instantly take a few moments of your time and get the burs or other matter out of his coat.

When you groom your pet, you should always start with a good brushing.  Brush his entire body, then once you have finished brushing you can switch to a comb to get out any loose hair that remains in the coat.  While you are getting out the hair, you can also inspect your pet for ticks, fleas, and other types of skin ailments.  If you wish, you can also check his ears and trim his nails as well.

Bathing your Golden is essential to grooming, and can be somewhat complicated.  Before you attempt to give him a bath, you should always brush him first, to get rid of tangles.  During shampooing, you should always use shampoos that are specifically for dogs, since human shampoo can dry a dog’s skin out.  You don’t need to bathe your dog often, once every other week is good enough.  If you properly maintain your Golden’s coat, you’ll find it’s much easier to clean.

To prevent matting, which is very common with Golden Retrievers, you should always make sure that you brush your pet on a daily basis.  Metal combs and brushes work extremely well, and will help you to get a great deal of the hair out.  Although some people choose to use scissors and cut the mats, you can easily injure your Golden if he happens to move or jerk.  Scissors aren’t recommended, as brushing and proper bathing will help to prevent matting of the hair better than anything else.

When you cut your dogs nails, you should trim them a great deal, all the while avoiding going down into the quick.  You should never let your Golden’s nails get too long, as long nails can easily take the shape of the dog’s foot, resulting in a splay.  Therefore, you should always check your Golden Retriever’s nails and trim them every few weeks.  If you trim them just right, you’ll have at least 2 weeks before they need to be trimmed again.  If you do happen to trim the nails past the quick, bleeding will occur.  To stop the bleeding, always keep some styptic powder on hand to make sure that you are prepared if you do make a mistake.

With other types of grooming, you should also make sure that you clean your Golden’s ears as well.  They can get ear infections quite easily, if you don’t clean their ears on a regular basis.  To get the best results and protect your pet from ear infections, you should clean his ears once a week using a quality cleansing solution.  This way, you can rest assured that your Golden has healthy ears.

Grooming is an essential aspect to the health of every Golden Retriever.  All it takes is a little bit of time from your day to groom your pet and keep him healthy.  If you don’t have the time to groom your Golden, you can always take him to a professional.  Whether you do it yourself or take your Golden to a pro – grooming is something that simply must be done.

Grooming Your Golden Retriever courtesy Dog Articles.

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What Do I Do If My Dog Has Hip Dysplasia?

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Hip dysplasia is a complicated disease that affects both cats and dogs.  It is considered to be an inherited disease but it is polygenic — that means that it is not a case of simply breeding parents together who don’t have hip dysplasia and producing puppies that don’t have the disease.  There are many factors that can affect whether or not a dog develops the disease, even if he has parents with or without hip dysplasia.

Hip dysplasia results when the cartilage around a dog’s hips shows signs of breaking down.  This can happen for several reasons.  There may be bony projections in the hip joints.  There could be shallow hip sockets.  There can be evidence of bone changes called “remodeling.”  All of these indications are bad because they lead to the breakdown of cartilage in the hip area.  Cartilage is necessary to cushion the hips when a dog walks or moves.  Without proper cartilage the dog begins experiencing some degree of pain.

The breakdown of cartilage leads to various stages of arthritis in the dog’s hips.  This arthritis can be diagnosed by a veterinarian as degenerative joint disease, arthrosis, osteoarthrosis.  These are all painful conditions and can eventually lead to a dog being debilitated and unable to walk.

If your dog is having difficulty with his hips or is showing any signs of pain you should visit your vet to get a professional opinion.  Your vet can make a preliminary diagnosis.  You can also submit the x-ray to the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals for evaluation.  The x-ray will be viewed by three veterinarians who are extremely experienced in evaluating hip dysplasia.  They can give you a precise rating for your dog’s hips.  Ratings of Excellent, Good, Fair, Borderline, Mildly Dysplastic, Poor and Severe may be given.  For cases where dysplasia is indicated the vets report back with a checklist of where the problems are.  Having the opinion of these specialists can provide your vet with more information if your dog is dysplastic.

Many people have their dog’s hips x-rayed when the dog is two years old to find out the dog’s hip status, especially if they are considering breeding the dog at some point.  As a general rule, dogs with ratings below Fair should not be used for breeding unless there are very important extenuating circumstances.

Hip ratings can depend a great deal on the x-rays submitted so it’s important to use a vet who has some experience with taking x-rays for OFA.  Bad x-rays can make even a dog with wonderful hips look like he is dysplastic.

Other people choose to use Penn Hip to evaluate hips for dysplasia.  Penn Hip stands for the University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program.  This radiographic technique measure the level of joint laxity in a dog’s hips rather than the absolute position of the joints and bones, as with OFA.  Both systems have their supporters but OFA seems to attract more people.

If your dog does have hip dysplasia a lot will depend on how much he is affected.  This is a degenerative disease meaning that it will get worse with age.  He will most likely become more arthritic as he ages.  Fortunately, there are a lot of things that people can do to help offset the early stages of hip dysplasia.  Many people give their dogs joint supplements, such as glucosamine and chondroitin and MSM.  You can buy the same supplements for dogs that you buy for yourself in drugstores or places like Walmart.  Ask your vet about the proper dosage for your dog’s weight.

There are many other supplements sold in pet stores for doggy arthritis, such as Dog Gone Pain.  Some dog owners swear by them.  You will have to try them for yourself and see if you think your dog improves when he takes them.  Most dysplastic and arthritic dogs also do better when you keep them from gaining excess weight.  Watch their diet so they aren’t too chubby.  Carrying a lot of extra weight is bad for their hips.

As your dysplastic dog ages he may experience some degree of pain in his hips.  Your vet may recommend using one of the NSAID medications for pain relief, such as Deramaxx.  There are drawbacks to these medications and your vet should advise you about possible side effects.  It’s also advisable to do a blood panel before starting to use an NSAID with a dog to make sure your dog is a good candidate for taking the drug.

There are plenty of dogs who may have some minor degree of hip dysplasia who never exhibit any symptoms.  If your dog does have some hip dysplasia it’s not the end of the world.  He may run and play for the rest of his life without experiencing pain.  Even if he does develop some arthritis there are many ways to counter the problem.  A diagnosis of hip dysplasia doesn’t have to mean the end of good times for you and your dog.

What Do I Do If My Dog Has Hip Dysplasia courtesy Dog Articles

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Extremely Light Shedding Dogs

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Every dog sheds some just like people lose a little hair. But some dogs shed  much more than others, while the ones discussed here shed a lot less. A lightly shedding dog is better for those people that want a house dog without as much cleanup of the dog’s fur required. It is also a plus for less grooming of your pet.

Those that want a dog that shed’s less have a large variety of breeds to choose from including: the Irish Water Spaniel, Puli, Yorkshire Terrier, Toy Poodle, Bolognese, and the Doodleman Pincher. This list is a sampling of breeds that shed less and isn’t all inclusive of them.

The so called non-shedding breds make the best pets for people with allergies. Dander and dead skin, which flakes off are allergens. The “don’t shed breds” don’t make as much allergy inducing material as other dogs.

The length of the dog’s coat isn’t as important in determining if he is a big shedder, as how many layers there are to his coat. In other words, pick a dog with one layer to his coat, not two layers. This rule applies whether the dog is short haired, wire haired or long haired.

People with allergies that are looking for a non-shedding dog, still need to be around the dog some to see if they will have an allergic reaction to the dog. Person A’s allergies can be triggered by one bred, while person B’s allergies aren’t agitated. So visit with the pooch before rushing home with the lovely pet.

Obviously, the non-shedding breeds are the ones to choose from, if you want to pick a dog for an allergic child. This should be on the okay of the child’s allergist. But if at all possible it is a wonderful part of childhood to have a dog. as a friend. It is important as with the adult allergy sufferer to make sure the dog won’t cause an allergic reaction.

Another consideration in picking a non-shedding dog is how well does this breed get along with children? That is for those that have children. The Maltese is a good choice because it is a friendly little dog that likes to play. The Labradorean is a dog that is family oriented that enjoys running and playing. It is a large dog. The Irish Water Spaniel is a medium dog in size. It has a good deposition for children and is a gentle dog. It is an intelligent animal and a beautiful dog. A beagle is a good choice for a child’s pet, which is non-shedding, friendly, and loving.

Those are just some of the non-shedding dogs that are also perfect to be around children. Others include the Golden Doodle, Bichon Frise, and the Bouvier des Flandres.

If a non-shedding dog is your choice, you won’t be without a variety to choose from in bred, size, and personality. Some are particularly good with children. One of these wonderful dogs is waiting for you to give it a good home.

Extremely Light Shedding Dogs courtesy Dog Articles.

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Dogs in Heat: The Facts

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There are numerous questions that people ask, when learning about dogs in heat. There are practical   answers that help dog owners to understand the estrous cycle.

The proper name for heat is the estrous cycle and during this cycle a dog can become pregnant. The obvious sign is bleeding from the vagina and the vulva might be swollen. The bleeding isn’t profuse, especially in small dogs. She will urinate more often. The biggest clue is the sudden surge of male dogs hanging around your yard. Observe the small dog before her first cycle more carefully, as it can be harder to tell when she first goes into the estrous cycle.

The majority of  female dogs come into heat at between six to twelve months of age, though it can be sooner or later. For some it it as long as fourteen months. Have your vet examine your dog, if she hasn’t cycled in fourteen months. They normally come into heat twice yearly. The smaller dogs are the ones that might come into their cycle earlier and the larger breeds might take longer than the usual time.

The estrous cycle is broken into four parts.

1) Proestrous is the initial stage. Its duration is between four and twenty days. The dog bleeds, is usually shy, her vulva is swollen, and she isn’t receptive to male dogs.
2) The estrous part of being in heat is from five to thirteen days long. The female dog is receptive to males and the blood secretion is a lighter color.
3) Diestrous is the next stage and now her secretions lessen and she begins to lose interest in the male dogs. If she got pregnant, the pregnancy duration would be between sixty and sixty-four days.
4) Anestrus is the period when the dog’s heat cycle finishes and she stays in in his stage for five to eleven months.

The majority of the cycle is around three weeks and doesn’t include the most of the anestrous period.

When your dog is in heat, she will be more excitable and can use some extra attention. Brushing,  petting, and talking to her will soothe her nerves. You can control the mess made through bleeding by putting a doggy pad on her or keeping her in her “den” area when inside. The space normally set aside as her place to sleep is her den. Visit her often, if she is confined to this space.

Breeders of dogs usually test for progesterone  levels, which signifies the dogs most fertile days. Normally those days are the 11th through the 15th day of heat. She can become pregnant during her first heat. The majority of breeders don’t breed their dogs that soon. They usually have genetic testing done prior to breeding. Some serious hip problems aren’t apparent until the dog is about two years old.

Spaying her is advisable, if you don’t want her to have puppies. The traditional advice has been to allow her to experience one cycle or  have puppies once before spaying. But vets now spay earlier. Ask your vet how soon you can have your dog spayed.

Dogs in Heat: The Facts courtesy Dog Articles.

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Preparing Your Dog for the Arrival of Your Baby

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Congratulations! You’re pregnant and your “pack” will soon be growing. If you’re like most people, you’re caught between anticipation and trepidation. As an expecting dog owner the very first thing that you should do is to identify the changes that need to be made in the life of your dog once the baby arrives and implement them NOW!

You do not want your dog to associate any changes that need to be made in your relationship with the arrival of your child thus setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic. Failing to implement relevant changes in the life of your dog prior to baby’s arrival is the single most common mistake expecting dog owners make. And keep in mind, things that you do not consider problematic now might become problematic with a child in your midst. So take a careful look: is your dog sleeping in bed with you, pushy and demanding, barky, prone to steal things and get into mischief when you’re not looking? Or worse, is he over-protective, suffer from separation anxiety and sensitivity to sudden and unpredictable movements?

Problems like these are readily resolvable but resolution depends on building the right relationship with your dog, a relationship in which your dog is in the habit of taking direction from you. Simple things like always giving your dog a command before you have an interaction with him, not letting him run out the door ahead of you, and being a little aloof with him can do a world of good in causing your dog to cheerfully accept your leadership role. Additionally, there are many things that help create not only safety but very positive associations for your dog with the presence of your child. Here’s an example.

Start by making the future baby’s room off limits to your dog. Once that’s handled, allow him to enter the room only with your permission and accompaniment. Once in the room always ask him for certain obedience exercises, especially down-stays. Soon he’ll get the idea that when he enters this room he’s to do a down-stay in the corner (you could even put a bed for him there). In addition, teach your dog to tolerate alone time every day. Once your baby arrives, allow your dog to come into the baby’s room when you go in to change diapers or play or whatever and assume his down-stay. If he has been left alone for a few hours prior to that he will welcome the contact. In other words, the presence of your child means a positive social engagement for him. This is quite different than what usually happens which is that when mommy goes to play with or care for baby, doggie gets thrown out, thus potentially setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic.

Other things that you can do to ensure a seamless transition to siblinghood for your dog include: o Teaching him the difference between doggie toys and child’s toys (start by getting doggie toys that are distinctly different from baby toys since often these two bear striking similarities). o Get a baby doll and wrap it in a scented baby blanket and teach your dog appropriate manners around your “faux baby,” thus setting up a template of behavior for future interactions. o Hire a dog walker to take over exercise responsibilities during the period immediately after birth. This will take a lot of pressure off of you and produce a tired dog.

Never allow unsupervised interactions between your dog and your child. While the above does not comprise a comprehensive list by any means, it should serve to provide a sense of direction and purpose. All that having been said, keep in mind that your true test of the success of your efforts at integration will be seen once your child passes the eight-month threshold when your little one starts crawling and becoming mobile. This means that the frequency of unexpected encounters between your child and your dog will increase dramatically. That’s where you’ll find out if all your hard work paid off. In closing, please understand that what I’ve outlined above represents the tip of the iceberg of strategies designed to make the integration of your dog and your child as seamless, warm and rewarding as possible.

While learning and implementing such strategies implies varying amounts of work, it promises a wholesome and fulfilling relationship between your child and your dog. The payoff of this relationship will last for years and thus makes any work you have to put in on the front end more than worth it.

Preparing Your Dog for the Arrival of Your Baby courtesy Dog Articles.

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