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Dog Assisted Therapy

Many people are familiar with the idea of pet therapy, or “animal assisted activities.”  Less familiar is the practice of “Animal Assisted Therapy.”  Animal assisted activities generally refer to pet visits in hospitals and residential care facilities, while Animal Assisted Therapy is a much more focused use of a pet to help in the treatment program of a particular patient.

Animal Assisted Therapy usually has specific and measurable objectives.  It’s part of a carefully designed treatment program that matches one animal to one patient.  A “therapy dog” and his trained handler work with a medical professional to help a patient who may have a severe mental and/or physical disability.  The patient is encouraged to interact with the therapy dog.  This interaction is increased gradually.  In the beginning the patient may only observe the dog or be encouraged to touch him.  Later the patient may be confident enough to brush the dog or put the dog’s collar on, or even to walk the dog.  The medical professionals will maintain progress records during treatment.

Dogs are ideal participants in this Animal Assisted Therapy.  They are nonjudgmental, they do not pressure the patient, and they are very patient.  They are also very empathetic.  The patient can also feel useful by grooming and walking the dog, which can be an important part of patient recovery.  Therapeutic interactions between dogs and patients have been shown to exist in studies.

Animal assisted activities, or pet visits with therapy dogs, are less formal in nature.  Their benefits may vary depending on the needs and conditions of the patients participating.  There is no formal treatment plan or schedule involved and they generally are not set up for one-to-one visits between patient and pet.  These visits usually take place in hospital settings or assisted living homes or in nursing homes.  They change the routine of the residents and cheer people up.  These visits can be very beneficial, however, appealing to people who may have shut themselves off from others.  Pets can stir emotions that people may not have acknowledged.  There are examples of patients who have not spoken in over a year who have begun speaking to visiting dogs.

Many institutions are continuing the idea of pet therapy with a “resident pet.”  A resident pet is a cat or dog that becomes a permanent resident of a facility and has free run of the place.  Each resident has an owner’s interest in the animal and can look forward to assisting in the animal’s care.  In some places a full course of therapy has been built around the care and feeding of the resident pet, giving residents something to look forward to.  Residents meet to discuss the animal’s care and other matters relating to the animal.  They may develop their own charts and schedules to take care of him or her.  Of course the staff must watch out to avoid problems of jealousy over the pet and caring for him.

Characteristics that make for a good therapy dog are more about temperament than training.  Of course such dogs do require basic obedience training, but personality plays a crucial role in determining which dogs will succeed as animal assistance dogs.  Patients, residents and even staff will react to the dogs in these programs in varying ways.  Some people will be outgoing and show emotion; others will be quite shy.  The dogs must be able to respond to a variety of emotions and remain calm.  They must have stable temperaments, even if patients lunge to grab them or make loud noises.  Dogs may also need to accept various medical equipment and hospital noises in some cases.  When considering a dog for these circumstances you would discount dogs that are nervous or high strung or one that doesn’t like to socialize.

Many studies have shown the benefits and importance of pet therapy.  Pets have been helpful with AIDS patients, cancer patients, the elderly and the mentally ill.  One study has even determined that petting a dog can lower blood pressure.  Another study found that pets can help reduce stress-related illnesses.  According to a study at City Hospital in New York, heart patients who owned pets lived longer than those who had no pets.  In fact, owning a pet was even more significant to long term survival than whether a person had a spouse or friends.  That’s rather amazing.  Pets can make a remarkable difference in our lives.

Dog Assisted Therapy courtesy Dog Articles.

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Terms of Dog Shows

When you begin going to dog shows you need to know the dog show lingo. That way you’ll understand what people are saying and know how to communicate. These are terms used at AKC dog shows.

Terms

The American Breed Class is a regular class open to all dogs six months old, which were whelped  in the United States. Its parents must have mated in the U.S.A.  The exception is champions. This is a basic term to be familiar with and learn.

The term angulation means the angle made when bones meet at the joint, which is a concrete notion useful when talking at dog shows. The angulation is related to balance. When both of these traits are good the canine’s joints be more flexible and the movement will be smooth.

Agility Trials are competitions in which the dogs surmount or negotiate jumps and obstacles like tunnels and weave poles. These events are a lot of fun for the audience.. The AKC holds a national agility trial. There are many canine agility events sanctioned by various dog clubs.

An All-Breed Show is a conformation show and any bred can show. Of course, you’ll want a very agile dog. In a conformation show the judges try to select the canines that are the epitome of the standard for their breed. A match show means no championship points are given at that show.

When a trainer uses a treat to attain a dog’s attention causing him to seem alert it is called baiting. It is important to teach your dog to bait properly; he should look attentive, quizzical, with an air of anticipation.

The bench show is one in which the dogs are seated on benches, when they are being shown.   Sitting on the bench allows the attendees, breeders, and exhibitors to view and discuss them. The judges look for the ideal dog for this show, exhibiting the standards better than the other competitors. When the dogs limbs and body are posed to design a pleasing look it is called stacking.

The champion is the title given to a dog that defeats a specific number of dogs in designated competitions during a series of shows. A standard is determined for a breed. A dog is measured out when his measurement is not within the limit for the breed. The dog earns credit toward a championship called points.

The exhibitor or handler is the person that brings a dog for showing and shows him in the correct class.   He shows the dog in the ring or works him at an event such as a field trial. He is hired by an owner that doesn’t want to show the dog himself.

Another person involved in shows is the  fancier. He  is someone that has a keen interest and normally is actively involved in some part of the sport of purebred canines.

The gait is how the dog moves. It is one indicator of  the dog’s condition and structure. Agility, angulation, and balance are intertwined in the dog’s gait.

To move is to gait a canine in a patten a judge proscribes. Moving close means that the dog’s hocks turn inward and his pasterns drops towards the ground, moving parallel to each other. Moving straight describes a balanced gait in which the inclination angle starts at the shoulder and legs stay mainly straight going from these points to the pads of the dog’s feet. This is while his legs extend. This can also start from the hip joint.

Terms of Dog Shows courtesy Dog Articles.

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Why is Puppy Socialization and Training Important?

So you’ve made a decision to get a puppy, you have evaluated your choices of breed and are ready to bring your puppy home. This is a commitment and one that should be happy and loving for everyone involved. When your puppy is not trained or socialized that relationship becomes strained and begins to lose its fun. Over the course of your dogs life it will meet many people and other animals, it’ll be exposed to people walking their dogs, bike riders, baby strollers, other dogs and cats as well as situations that may cause stress and fear so it is necessary to begin puppy training to socialize them and keep them and you happy and healthy.

When a puppy is not trained it begins to form its own habits based on its environment. Some of these habits may turn into negative behaviors like being protective of food and toys, growling at strangers or even biting them, fighting with other dogs, urinating and defecating in the house, begging at the table and other bad habits that could have been avoided with puppy training. Puppy training can begin with the breeder. Puppies 8-12 weeks are particularly absorbent when it comes to training. Even at birth they have instincts that kick in and begin to learn how to interact with their litter mates, mother and people who handle them. As they grow they go through an imprinting stage when puppy training is more easily accepted. There are four main commands that every puppy should be taught.

They are sit, stay, come and no. It is important to keep puppy training and socialization experiences positive. Introducing your puppy to people is a good way to start the socialization and is fairly easy. After all, who doesn’t like a puppy? By introducing new people, places, things and other animals to your puppy you can prevent a lot of negative behaviors that may develop over time. Through puppy training and socialization, your puppy should learn that you are dominant over them. They should be friendly towards those who you let into your home and not be afraid of them (particularly people with beards and hats). You should be able to take food, toys and dangerous objects out of their mouths. They should not be fearful or aggressive. They should be comfortable on a leash.

They should be housebroken. They shouldn’t suffer from separation anxiety and understand that you will come back. Puppy training your pet to be confident while you are away, not to chew on people or destroy property, to come when called and stay when needed among other things will help to keep your sanity. Puppy training is important to start your relationship out on a good note and keep a better bond between you and your dog for many years to come. Puppy training is essential to your dogs care and the training should continue and be reinforced throughout their lives. Puppy training and socialization is also important in keeping your dog happy, healthy and safe. When they know how to react to certain situations there is less of a chance for a negative incident to occur. Lea Mullins talks about importance of socialization in puppy training.

Why is Puppy Socialization and Training Important courtesy Dog Articles.

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Hunting Dogs and Hand Signals

Training a hunting dog with hand signals is very practical. This can be mixed with verbal commands, when you are initially training your dog, which will reinforce the hand gestures. Though hand signals can be successfully used as the only training method and is a way to train a deaf dog or one that can’t hear well.

You can cue your dog to take a certain action using hand signals. There are several reasons that hand signals are better than using verbal commands with a hunting dog.

When you are hunting, your dog will many times be distanced from you. He might just take off running. Maybe you are in the field with him or on an agility course and he is too far away to hear a verbal command. If he is trained with hand signals, he will watch for your command. It is more probable he will see the hand gesture.

Hand signals are a way to tell the dog what action to take and be quiet. When dogs are worked up, they don’t respond as well to verbal commands, but they do respond  to visual signals. Their listening response is low, but their desire to watch is up. Dogs sometimes just ignore verbal commands but obey visual cues.

Focus is the basis of training your dog. When your dog  is aware that he must look at you to see what you want him to do, then his focus is attuned to you more than if he is listening for the command. Watching for your command makes him less distracted. This makes training him easier to do. When you train your dog with hand signals be consistent. Use the same hand signal for a certain command at all times.

The reason dogs respond so well to hands signals or cues is that it is a type of body language. Dogs already communicate with other dogs through body language; your dog communicates with you through body language like showing his belly to say you are dominant or nudging your hand to get petted.

These are a few of the usual hand training commands.

– Stay: Stretch your hand out at shoulder height. Your palm should face out towards your dog. It looks like the signal given by a crossing guard for traffic to stop.

– Come: There are two ways to perform this hand command. Hold both arms out in front of you and next bring them in and touch your stomach. Or stretch one arm out parallel to the ground and then bring your arm inward and touch your opposite shoulder. Either method should be performed slowly until your dog has caught on to the signal. After that, you can do it quicker.

– Sit: Put your arm to your side with your fingers pointing towards the ground. Move your hand in an arch that goes across your dog’s face and over his head. Hold a treat so that he will naturally follow the movement of your hand. This will cause him to naturally sit down.

– Down: This can be an exaggerated movement, if you like. Point your finger down or raise your hand up some first and point downward.

Remember to reinforce these hand signals with verbal commands at first.

Hunting Dogs and Hand Signals courtesy Dog Articles.

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For Dog Owners

(From a dog’s point of view) You know you need a new mindset when your dog would say: I am a small breed dog that should weigh about 15 lbs but I weigh 40. My owner jokes about how she is guilty of feeding me table scraps (I am four now, but I may not see seven or eight because of this. I like to eat and it’s my owners’ job to maintain my weight because I don’t know how) I am a medium size breed that should weigh around 60 lbs but I weigh 110 lbs. The vet, told my owner to put me on a diet, so he/my owner cut back to 6 cups per day (that means I was getting way, way too much before because 6 cups is way too much for me now and I will probably not live long because I don’t know how to control my own weight, this makes me sad)

My owner doesn’t want me to see, smell, look at, greet or play with any other dog (since I am by nature a pack animal, he can expect me to have issues including possible aggression and fearfulness. I don’t think he realizes that I am just like a human child that needs to play and have fun and make friends with other dogs just like a human child does) I am a large breed, long haired dog and my owner hasn’t brushed or bathed me in 9 months and she wants my groomer to bathe, brush and get all the mats out without clipping me. (which isn’t possible without a haircut and hurts me and makes me really anxious) I am a small breed dog and I have gotten severely matted because my owner doesn’t brush me.

She has this silly notion that a hairbrush is a stress on me, so she tried “hacking” and “chopping” at the mats herself then decided to take me to the groomer but didn’t want me to be bathed or brushed, just clipped. (It hurts me to cut my hair when it’s this matted and it can’t be done without brushing what can be brushed out first. Lack of regular care causes me way more stress when I am dumped on a groomer for care and have to endure tugging and pulling at mats, than if my coat was maintained to begin with. Hacking and chopping what she can’t see, can cause cuts she can’t see)

My owner lets my toenails get so long that they curl around and dig into the pads of my paws, then takes me to the groomer. (this would be to him, like walking around in shoes that have nails driven into them stabbing into his feet. My toes will become splayed and I will probably develop joint pain, not to mention that I may have hoof rot, which can get very stinky and painful.) When I jump up on counters or people, my owner says “look what I taught my dog” (I’m behaving badly and I should not be encouraged) When I bark and growl at people and other dogs and my owner says “Good boy!, you go get em” (If I am allowed to behave like this, he may end up getting rid of me to another owner who may give me up again and I might get euthanized in a shelter because I wasn’t trained to behave to begin with.)

I bite people and when my owner is told about it, she says “Oh yeah, he gets a wild hair every now and then and decides to turn” (I am being very naughty and I should not be allowed to act like this. I’m afraid if she doesn’t get me trained to behave, I might end up in a shelter or get euthanized for my bad behavior) My owner doesn’t want to have me spayed or neutered because he thinks I will become fat, lazy or that it will take away what I should have. (What he doesn’t realize is that I will want to mark and mount the girls and other dogs and I might become a fighter and a dangerous dog. The girl dogs out there like me will probably have puppies that no one will have a home for and they will end up in shelters or get euthanized. This makes me so sad)

My owner wants my caregiver while she is on vacation to feed me human treats for my snack but they are unhealthy and one is actually poisonous to me. (If you want to feed me human foods, please make sure that they are safe for me because I want to live a long life with you, not die of poisoning that you didn’t know about.

For Dog Owners courtesy Dog Articles.

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My Dog Hates To Travel

In your mind you and your dog are traveling down the road in a convertible.  The top is down and you and your dog are letting the wind blow through your hair (and fur) as you drive off into the sunset.  It’s a beautiful fantasy.  Unfortunately, in real life, your dog drools, whines and throws up every time you try to put him in the car.  A quick trip to the vet for his shots leaves him shaking and staring at you like you’re going to have him put to sleep.  Taking your dog on an actual vacation would probably mean the end of your relationship.

What have you done to deserve this?  Why does your dog hate to travel?  And, is there anything you can do to make things better?

Contrary to popular belief, carsickness and travel anxiety can occur in any dog.  Even puppies that are introduced to riding in cars at a very young age may develop into bad travelers.  Some dogs simply seem to be more anxious by nature than other dogs.  Certainly socialization in all forms will help to create a more secure, more confident dog, which can decrease anxiety in general.  But if your dog becomes anxious about traveling in the car it’s going to take some work to help him get over his carsickness problems.

If you have a puppy or young dog do try to make the car a fun place for them, especially when you aren’t going anywhere.  Play with your puppy in the car or van.  Spend time there that isn’t associated with traveling.  Let it be a place for games and playtime.  That way, when you put your dog in the car or van to go on a short trip, your dog will associate the vehicle with good things.  That good attitude may help a little.

Whether you have a puppy or a dog that is already experiencing some travel problems, go for very short trips.  Drive around the block.  Go back home before your puppy or dog can develop any bad reaction to the trip.  Praise your puppy or dog and give them treats.  You can do this several times a week, gradually making the trips a little longer.  Most puppies will be fine with this routine and develop into great little travelers.  If you have a dog which is already showing signs of being a bad traveler you should monitor him carefully to see how far you can drive before he starts having problems.  See if you can slowly help him get a little further each time but don’t push things too far or make him uncomfortable.  Carsickness is a very real, physical problem and if your dog is carsick he can’t help it.

Keep in mind that once a dog has been sick in your car that the odor will linger for quite a while.  You may stop noticing it but your dog can still detect it.  The scent of it may contribute to making him sick again so be sure to try to thoroughly clean any carsickness accidents in your vehicle.  This will help your dog do better the next time you make an attempt.

If your dog isn’t improving by trying to gradually lengthen his trips in the car you can try some natural remedies.  One of the old favorites uses ginger cookies or any kind of cookie or treat with ginger.  Ginger is a traditional home remedy for settling an upset stomach and it works well for dogs as well as humans.

Some people recommend pheromones.  Comfort Zone with D.A.P (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) has helped some dogs by reducing anxiety.

Herbal and nutritional remedies are also popular.  Composure Liquid by Vetri-Science has been used with success by some owners.  Nutricalm has also worked to reduce anxiety for some dogs.

Some people prefer the Bach Flower Essences, such as Rescue Remedy.

If the natural remedies don’t work for you and your dog you may wish to try the over-the-counter anti-nausea drug Dramamine.  Dramamine helps many dogs who don’t travel well.  If your dog still has problems with traveling you should consult your veterinarian.  He or she may prescribe something stronger for anxiety, such as Valium or Serax.

You don’t have to give up your dream of traveling with your dog but it may take a little work to get the two of you on the road together.

My Dog Hates To Travel courtesy Dog Articles.

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How Old Should My Puppy Be When I Bring Him Home?

Puppies come from many different places.  You may be getting a puppy from a shelter or from a breeder.  Wherever your puppy is coming from he needs to learn a lot of things from his mother and siblings before he comes home with you.  Ideally, your puppy should remain with his mother and littermates until he is at least eight weeks old.  Unfortunately, there are people who are separating puppies from their mothers and littermates much earlier than this and sending them home with people at five-six weeks old.  There are a number of reasons this is a bad idea and why you should never take a puppy this young.

At the age of five-six weeks puppies have barely been weaned from their mothers.  They have not yet learned how to be dogs.  When you bring a puppy this young to your home he has not learned any rules.  He doesn’t know that he is not supposed to play too rough.  He has not learned “bite inhibition,” which means that he is more likely to bite you and have a hard time learning that he isn’t supposed to do it.  He has not learned the kind of manners that his mother would teach him.  Your puppy has not learned that there is a pack leader and that he can’t do what he wants all the time.  Your puppy has not learned any dog socialization or social skills.  You are bringing home a cute puppy who is much more likely to grow up to be a brat and develop behavioral problems as an adult.

At the age of five-six weeks your puppy may not have even received his first set of shots.  He is far more likely to develop a deadly disease like Parvo if you bring him home at this age than if you bring home a puppy at the age of eight weeks or later.  Your puppy’s immunity from his mother is virtually gone and he has not been properly immunized by vaccinations yet.  Bringing home a puppy this young is unhealthy for the puppy and for any other dogs in your household.

At the age of five-six weeks a puppy has not received any socialization from the person who brought him into this world.  A good breeder will make sure that a puppy becomes used to things in a house, such as televisions, radios, vacuum cleaners, and scary things like cats, umbrellas, and kids.  When you bring home a puppy who has not met these things they have no human socialization.  They are more likely to grow up to be fearful adults and develop problems like separation anxiety later in life.  A good breeder will also make sure that a puppy receives his first set of shots (at least) before you bring him home.

Good breeders do not release puppies at five-six weeks of age.  They may allow you to meet puppies at this age.  They may make arrangements with you.  But they will not allow puppies to leave their home at such a young age.  It’s too young.

If you are getting a puppy from an animal shelter you may  have to take a puppy at this age because it could be dangerous to leave them in the shelter longer since shelters can house diseases.  Be sure to get your puppy vaccinated against diseases as quickly as possible and take extra care in socializing your puppy in the coming months to try to make up for the socialization he missed with his mother and littermates.

How Old Should My Puppy Be When I Bring Him Home courtesy Dog Articles.

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My Dog Won’t Stop Mouthing Me!

Some dogs are very “mouthy.”  That doesn’t mean they talk or bark a lot.  It means that they use their mouths on everything, trying to taste things, or put their mouths on things.  Usually these dogs have not been completely taught bite inhibition.  Bite inhibition is when a puppy is taught that nipping and biting others hurts and that they shouldn’t go around using their mouths on things.  They generally learn it from their mothers and littermates, and later from their owners.  Singleton pups (one-puppy litters) may have a harder time learning bite inhibition since they don’t have littermates.

Dogs can also be mouthy as a way of showing affection.  Wolves tend to show affection to each other by mouthing muzzles, necks and paws.

Whatever the cause, mouthing people’s hands and feet, or any other part of their bodies, can be annoying.  Your dog may not use his teeth, but it does tend to cover you in dog slobber.  Having a dog grab you with his mouth is also simply not very good manners.

There are a few simple methods for teaching your dog not to mouth you.

Some people like to use Bitter Apple, a spray or cream product.  You can put this on your hands if that’s where your dog grabs you.  Most dogs hate the taste and your dog should stop grabbing at your hands.

Another method of dealing with mouthiness is to turn to stone whenever your dog grabs you with his mouth.  If your dog gets no feedback he will likely lose interest.

You can also use clicker training to teach your dog not to be mouthy.  When your dog grabs your hand or wrist being mouthy wait for him to let go.  Wait for a couple of seconds and then Click and tell him he’s a good dog.  Give him a treat.  Keep clicking and treating when he stops the mouthing behavior.  He will get the message.

If your dog is mouthing other things in your home, such as walls or furniture, you can try the Bitter Apple on them.  The bad-tasting product usually discourages dogs from mouthing and chewing things.

Remember that puppy nipping and mouthing are normal behaviors up to a point.  If you have a puppy who is nipping and mouthing you can work on bite inhibition.  When your puppy nips or mouths you all you have to do is make it perfectly clear that it HURTS when he does it.  Let out an OUCH to curl your puppy’s hair.  Leave him in no doubt that what he did really hurt you.  This is the same thing that his littermates would do if he played too rough with them.  If he does it the next time you play with him, get up and leave.  Puppies don’t play with a puppy that is too rough and you shouldn’t either.

For mouthy adolescent or grown dogs, the tips offered here should work.  Give them a try and it should stop the mouthiness.

My Dog Won’t Stop Mouthing Me courtesy Dog Articles.

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Common Health Problems In A Welsh Corgi

While Welsh Corgis are great family pets, unfortunately they come with their fair share of health problems.

Particular care is needed to keep these dogs in shape and avoid over feeding them. Due to their short legs and long body they tend to gain weight easily which can pose a problem with their joints in the future. One good way to keep them in shape is swimming, as it doesn’t put pressure on their back or joints.

The Welsh Corgi is also prone to spinal problems due to the length of its spine, which can lead to early arthritis, particularly for those that are overweight. Biophysical stresses are a renowned problem for these breeds on their spine, which is directly related to the weight of an over-sized belly. This problem has lead to other secondary diseases such as osteoarthritis.

Unfortunately they are also predisposed to developing a disease called DM (Degenerative Myelopathy). A test for this has been developed and is available through the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. Further research is still being conducted as to why some Welsh Corgi’s develop DM and others don’t.

Pembroke’s in particular are at risk for hip dysplasia, Von Willebrand’s disease and other eye disorders.

Von Willebrand’s is a blood clotting disorder which is only detected by a DNA test. At the moment it is only eliminated by avoiding breeding carriers or affected Pembroke’s together. One parent must be clear to avoid the disease.

As for eye problems, both parents need to have passed CERF rating at least one year before breeding commences, to avoid such problems as persistent papillary membranes (PPM), retinal dysplasia or cataracts. Progressive Retinal Atrophy is a common eye condition with Welsh Corgi’s among other breeds that have protruding eyes. This eye condition is characterized by the deterioration of retina cells which ultimately leads to a progressive loss of sight starting approximately around 5 years of age. Glaucoma is another eye disease that can lead to permanent blindness by predetermined genetics. Glaucoma is the excessive pressure inside the eye which can damage the eye’s internal structures. If glaucoma is not treated quickly permanent loss of vision or complete blindness is inevitable.

Hip dysplasia in these dogs is poly-genetic, where more than one set of genes may be involved. It is important to have as many ancestors tested as possible as well as a fair rating in OFA. This is the best way to avoid dysplasia, but unfortunately there is not a completed guarantee.

Maintaining the recommended weight of Welsh Corgi’s will ensure longevity and a healthy life. These breeds are known to live up to 12 – 15 years. So if you’re looking at having this breed, ensure you stick to a regular diet and exercise regime without over feeding, so you and your family can enjoy the company of your dog for many years to come.

Common Health Problems In A Welsh Corgi courtesy Dog Articles.

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Preparing Your Dog for the Arrival of Your Baby

Congratulations! You’re pregnant and your “pack” will soon be growing. If you’re like most people, you’re caught between anticipation and trepidation. As an expecting dog owner the very first thing that you should do is to identify the changes that need to be made in the life of your dog once the baby arrives and implement them NOW!

You do not want your dog to associate any changes that need to be made in your relationship with the arrival of your child thus setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic. Failing to implement relevant changes in the life of your dog prior to baby’s arrival is the single most common mistake expecting dog owners make. And keep in mind, things that you do not consider problematic now might become problematic with a child in your midst. So take a careful look: is your dog sleeping in bed with you, pushy and demanding, barky, prone to steal things and get into mischief when you’re not looking? Or worse, is he over-protective, suffer from separation anxiety and sensitivity to sudden and unpredictable movements?

Problems like these are readily resolvable but resolution depends on building the right relationship with your dog, a relationship in which your dog is in the habit of taking direction from you. Simple things like always giving your dog a command before you have an interaction with him, not letting him run out the door ahead of you, and being a little aloof with him can do a world of good in causing your dog to cheerfully accept your leadership role. Additionally, there are many things that help create not only safety but very positive associations for your dog with the presence of your child. Here’s an example.

Start by making the future baby’s room off limits to your dog. Once that’s handled, allow him to enter the room only with your permission and accompaniment. Once in the room always ask him for certain obedience exercises, especially down-stays. Soon he’ll get the idea that when he enters this room he’s to do a down-stay in the corner (you could even put a bed for him there). In addition, teach your dog to tolerate alone time every day. Once your baby arrives, allow your dog to come into the baby’s room when you go in to change diapers or play or whatever and assume his down-stay. If he has been left alone for a few hours prior to that he will welcome the contact. In other words, the presence of your child means a positive social engagement for him. This is quite different than what usually happens which is that when mommy goes to play with or care for baby, doggie gets thrown out, thus potentially setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic.

Other things that you can do to ensure a seamless transition to siblinghood for your dog include: o Teaching him the difference between doggie toys and child’s toys (start by getting doggie toys that are distinctly different from baby toys since often these two bear striking similarities). o Get a baby doll and wrap it in a scented baby blanket and teach your dog appropriate manners around your “faux baby,” thus setting up a template of behavior for future interactions. o Hire a dog walker to take over exercise responsibilities during the period immediately after birth. This will take a lot of pressure off of you and produce a tired dog.

Never allow unsupervised interactions between your dog and your child. While the above does not comprise a comprehensive list by any means, it should serve to provide a sense of direction and purpose. All that having been said, keep in mind that your true test of the success of your efforts at integration will be seen once your child passes the eight-month threshold when your little one starts crawling and becoming mobile. This means that the frequency of unexpected encounters between your child and your dog will increase dramatically. That’s where you’ll find out if all your hard work paid off. In closing, please understand that what I’ve outlined above represents the tip of the iceberg of strategies designed to make the integration of your dog and your child as seamless, warm and rewarding as possible.

While learning and implementing such strategies implies varying amounts of work, it promises a wholesome and fulfilling relationship between your child and your dog. The payoff of this relationship will last for years and thus makes any work you have to put in on the front end more than worth it.

Preparing Your Dog for the Arrival of Your Baby courtesy Dog Articles.

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